Pull the plug and see if it's black and sooty or white.Thanks for the input everyone. I only use non-ethanol gas in the mower, but the carb sounds easier to deal with first than the valves so I'll start there.
It would be nice to report back when you find the culprit.Pull the plug and see if it's black and sooty or white.
oilcandave also makes a good point with cam timing.
OI’m casting vote for carb. These engines are very efficient on fuel and they’ve got them tuned about as lean as it can go. The carbs are fuel sippers and precise…. ANY debris that makes it through the little crude screen in the tank cause headaches. Refueling on a dusty day can mean 3 carb-off cleanings. (Ask me how I know).
Pull the carb. It will look clean. Blow everything out you can. Take one strand from a wire brush or from stranded wire and run it up the main jet. Then add a small inline fuel filter. A model RC filter will work as long as it’s good with unleaded. Get the right size for the fuel line.
Everyone Honda engine I’ve owned has needed this… it gets dusty here in the fall.
Had to wait until the weekend to spend time on it, but I just posted my update.It would be nice to report back when you find the culprit.
clearly the plug is an issue.Update: Thanks everyone for the tips and advice. I took the carb apart and cleaned it the best I could. After reassembling, it didn't backfire as hard (no fire coming out of the exhaust) but it still didn't sound like it was running normally. It died when I tried to engage the blade after warming up for 5 minutes.
I took the spark plug out and it's very black and sooty. I didn't have a new one on hand but I have one on order now.
I proceeded to take the valve cover off to check the clearances. The exhaust valve seemed correct using a .20mm (0.008in) gauge (fit in the gap with some drag). The intake valve was definitely out of spec though -- the .15mm (.006in) gauge wouldn't fit. I adjusted the intake side until the .15 gauge fit through with a little drag.
I didn't have any sealant on hand to replace the cover, so I added that to the order with the spark plug. Will have to wait a few days to put it back together.
No, it isn't.clearly the plug is an issue.
So a heavily nasty and sooty spark plug could not be an issue? I find that hard to believe. Is it the overall issue, not sure, and neither are you, but a nasty plug that is not creating good spark can absolutely be AN issue, perhaps a contributing factor.No, it isn't.
Over the many years I was in the OPE business and the thousands of mowers I worked on, I can count on one hand how many times the spark plug was the ACTUAL issue.
I concur with shortyb and I reiterate, I still think that you have a choke problem.
Did you check to see if the cam lobe point straight out at TDC? Timing good would mean fueling.
My unit has an early serial number (in the 164XXXX range, circa 2010 ) and I don't think it has auto-choke. Can I just replace the whole carburetor assembly with a newer model?Just save some time and get a new carburetor. Also check to see that the auto-choke is working properly, the wax actuators go out on these all the time. Could give rich fueling as the default for a bad auto-choke is closed. I get my Honda mower parts here: https://parts.shankslawn.com/oemparts
Get #s 8,12,14,19 in this parts diagram: https://parts.shankslawn.com/oempar...6612d8373287/carburetor-hrx217-k1-k2-k3-k4-k5. Get #25 if the auto-choke is not opening. Also get a high temp RTV sealant for the valve cover or it will leak. Ask me how I know.
In a single cylinder engine a bad plug will not make it run bad, it just won't run at all.So a heavily nasty and sooty spark plug could not be an issue? I find that hard to believe. Is it the overall issue, not sure, and neither are you, but a nasty plug that is not creating good spark can absolutely be AN issue, perhaps a contributing factor.
Check the video by @doitmyself in post #4. It give you a good idea if the timing is off just by looking at the cam lobe @ TDC.I didn't check for that. I'll have to find a video to explain that more (if you have a good link, please let me know).
My unit has an early serial number (in the 164XXXX range, circa 2010 ) and I don't think it has auto-choke. Can I just replace the whole carburetor assembly with a newer model?