Need a new heating oil tank- single vs double wall?

[Delta]

It’s a tight fit to get the old tank out and new tank in. Not sure a double wall will fit.
This is the original tank to the house, built in 1977. So this one lasted a very long time.
The 3 year warranty on the new tank seems pretty weak.
Estimates up here in RI were all around $4K for taking away the old tank and installing the new one. Also, they will pump out the heating oil and pump it back into the new tank. ( tank is almost full).
I don’t doubt that it could be DIY’ed for less, but the job is beyond my skill level.
Heat pump is a great idea, but at this point, I just want to get the tank replaced.

The 3 year warranty sounds like a Granby brand. Just the tank alone runs $1200-$1400 so that's a heckuva lotta labor for $4K.

To answer the OP's question...

The double wall tank sounds like a Roth tank. Those are a plastic poly blown in tank encased in a metal (aluminum maybe?) shell that is basically a safety net. It has a monitor that tells you when the poly tank broke. Still have to replace the tank, but at least there isn't any leakage in the basement. Those tanks do require more maintenance as the whole thing expands/contracts depending on oil level. You have to intermittently tighten the plastic collars on the fittings on the top.

IMO I would just go with a regular metal tank. Inside a basement that isn't too moist you don't see too many issues.

 

[facility1]

if the magnetic patch is holding, just live with it or get some fiberglass matts (cleaning surface on tank) and coat over magnetic patch to secure it better , where is the leak,on bottom or ,side fitting etc, (how much sludge is in it,use a borescope to look) & there may be another way to repair existing tank,,though it can be welded by draining tank,fill with water (at least to crack/leak area) ,or use inert gas, then weld , probably a couple of tacks, making sure its done by a knowledgeable person or a certified tank repair company and have it inspected,, ,,or other way is to find a good used tank, pressure test it before installation with water.

 

[Sumboodie]

I know if my oil burner gave out, I'd think seriously about going to gas. I'm not sure how cost effective it is, but oil requires yearly cleanings. There might be some sort of savings as the years go by.

How long do you plan to live here? I mean, if you're gone in 5, perhaps the cheapest route?

Not that hard to clean.

 

[supton]

Not that hard to clean.

No, but to me, the fact that the guy gives the furnace a good looking over is priceless (or at least worth the cost of the cleaning). I don't have an alternate source of heat, not going to install one, and don't have a desire to buy a fire rated vacuum to do the cleaning.

 

[Ronsant]

The 3 year warranty sounds like a Granby brand. Just the tank alone runs $1200-$1400 so that's a heckuva lotta labor for $4K.

To answer the OP's question...

The double wall tank sounds like a Roth tank. Those are a plastic poly blown in tank encased in a metal (aluminum maybe?) shell that is basically a safety net. It has a monitor that tells you when the poly tank broke. Still have to replace the tank, but at least there isn't any leakage in the basement. Those tanks do require more maintenance as the whole thing expands/contracts depending on oil level. You have to intermittently tighten the plastic collars on the fittings on the top.

IMO I would just go with a regular metal tank. Inside a basement that isn't too moist you don't see too many issues.

Thanks, the short warranty had me worried. It is inside the basement. I guess I’ll go with the single wall.

 

[Ronsant]

if the magnetic patch is holding, just live with it or get some fiberglass matts (cleaning surface on tank) and coat over magnetic patch to secure it better , where is the leak,on bottom or ,side fitting etc, (how much sludge is in it,use a borescope to look) & there may be another way to repair existing tank,,though it can be welded by draining tank,fill with water (at least to crack/leak area) ,or use inert gas, then weld , probably a couple of tacks, making sure its done by a knowledgeable person or a certified tank repair company and have it inspected,, ,,or other way is to find a good used tank, pressure test it before installation with water.

So far, no more drips. If this tank is from 1977 as I suspect, I’ll sleep better knowing it’s replaced with a new one. We plan on being here for a while.
Thanks to everyone for the advice. Sounds like the single wall tank will be fine for a basement install.

 

[Ronsant]

The 3 year warranty sounds like a Granby brand. Just the tank alone runs $1200-$1400 so that's a heckuva lotta labor for $4K.

To answer the OP's question...

The double wall tank sounds like a Roth tank. Those are a plastic poly blown in tank encased in a metal (aluminum maybe?) shell that is basically a safety net. It has a monitor that tells you when the poly tank broke. Still have to replace the tank, but at least there isn't any leakage in the basement. Those tanks do require more maintenance as the whole thing expands/contracts depending on oil level. You have to intermittently tighten the plastic collars on the fittings on the top.

IMO I would just go with a regular metal tank. Inside a basement that isn't too moist you don't see too many issues.

Not sure if Granby is the brand. The oil company told me they had a 10 year warranty and changed it to 3 years about 3-4 years ago. Is Granby a good brand?

 

[BituminousCoal]

As someone who does this for a living, change the tank ASAP. Once there is one pinhole others aren't far behind. Sometimes the bottom splits completely. Empty to full is almost 2k pounds of oil, that's a lot of stress on a rotten tank.

Yes, they rot from the inside out. Going to ulsd increased microbial growth, and the use of bio has dramatically increased it further. Bio retains moisture in the fuel and the microbial growth creates organic acids which eat the tank.

Roth has their own problems, stay with a steel, but go with the double bottom tank.

Use the bottom tap for the feed. Be sure tank is pitched toward the bottom outlet. Use a cartridge filter 1a-25b or similar near the tank valve and a 10 micron spin on with restriction gauge near the burner. New protected oil line. This will be more important as states increase the bio %. I strongly suggest a yearly biocide treatment with biobor.

4k is reasonable for an indoor tank swap. Carrying a tank in and out, pumping it out, re-piping as necessary, disposing and cleaning the old tank, disposing of the muck and sludge, being responsible for any spills and leaks - it's a bargain. I encourage anyone who thinks otherwise to hang a shingle and offer their services for far less as they clearly feel they could.

I have mitsubishi h2i hyper heats in my own home as well as being a Mitsubishi diamond contractor. For 10+ years. I DO NOT recommend them as a sole source of heat in the northeast.

 

[Delta]

Not sure if Granby is the brand. The oil company told me they had a 10 year warranty and changed it to 3 years about 3-4 years ago. Is Granby a good brand?

That sounds like Granby, they did some pretty crappy stuff with the warranty here recently. Still a good tank.

 

[oil pan 4]

I do not have access to natural gas on my street, unfortunately.
We will be in this house for a decade or more. Heat pump is a good option, but would require supplemental heat on the coldest days.
At this point, the boiler is good, and I replaced the pumps a few years ago, so I want to get the new tank. The three year warranty is concerning, as the original tank lasted over 30 years.

Keep the oil furnace and add a heat pump. That's what I do. Well I have a coal furnace, not a fuel oil burner. Use the heat pump on the milder days and combustion when it's really cold such as at night.
Also up north your home insurance may not cover you if you only have a heatpump. Home insurance wants you to have a real heat source so your pipes don't freeze and bust.

 

[Sumboodie]

No, but to me, the fact that the guy gives the furnace a good looking over is priceless (or at least worth the cost of the cleaning). I don't have an alternate source of heat, not going to install one, and don't have a desire to buy a fire rated vacuum to do the cleaning.

Not sure why you'd need a special vacuum?

I just use my shop vac. Nothing in there is setting fires unless it was just running. Do it it summer.

 

[Sumboodie]

As someone who does this for a living, change the tank ASAP. Once there is one pinhole others aren't far behind. Sometimes the bottom splits completely. Empty to full is almost 2k pounds of oil, that's a lot of stress on a rotten tank.

Yes, they rot from the inside out. Going to ulsd increased microbial growth, and the use of bio has dramatically increased it further. Bio retains moisture in the fuel and the microbial growth creates organic acids which eat the tank.

Roth has their own problems, stay with a steel, but go with the double bottom tank.

Use the bottom tap for the feed. Be sure tank is pitched toward the bottom outlet. Use a cartridge filter 1a-25b or similar near the tank valve and a 10 micron spin on with restriction gauge near the burner. New protected oil line. This will be more important as states increase the bio %. I strongly suggest a yearly biocide treatment with biobor.

4k is reasonable for an indoor tank swap. Carrying a tank in and out, pumping it out, re-piping as necessary, disposing and cleaning the old tank, disposing of the muck and sludge, being responsible for any spills and leaks - it's a bargain. I encourage anyone who thinks otherwise to hang a shingle and offer their services for far less as they clearly feel they could.

I have mitsubishi h2i hyper heats in my own home as well as being a Mitsubishi diamond contractor. For 10+ years. I DO NOT recommend them as a sole source of heat in the northeast.

If the new tank price is around $3500, I'd agree.

 

[supton]

Not sure why you'd need a special vacuum?

I just use my shop vac. Nothing in there is setting fires unless it was just running. Do it it summer.

If it vacuums up a hot ember, it can catch fire. I think the guy who cleans mine had that happen... it was either to him or someone he was working with. For a company, with liabilities et al, only makes sense. Plus it really should be a HEPA too.

My furnace runs all year. Is my hot water heater. If I really wanted to, I guess I could turn it off in the morning, tell everyone "no hot water for the next 6 hours", then do the job. Not worth it to me, furnace quits in the middle of winter, I know who is getting the call, and they know the condition of the furnace.