What is the difference between the Napa Gold and Napa Silver oil filters?
Is it worth paying the extra for the Gold?
Is it worth paying the extra for the Gold?
NAPA Oil Filters
- Thread starter FrankP
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Napa Gold is the same as a Wix. The Gold is an excellent Wix filter with a different media and a silicon ADBV. Other than that they are essentially the same. There are no more Napa Siver, it's called the Napa ProSelect now. The ProSelect is built by Wix to Napa specs. It has a nitrile ADBV and less filtering media and it is constructed very well, the same quality construction as the Wix/Napa Gold. It also costs less, about $2.50 to $3.00. The ProSelect for my truck costs $2.69. ProSelect is a very good filter and will do just fine for a 3K OCI. The Gold costs more and is said to have better media and can be used for longer drains. Personally, I prefer the ProSelect. I have not noticed any detrimental effects from the ProSelect since I started using it. It's the best filter IMHO for the price. I follow a very strict 2800k to never more than 3k OCI, so I really cannot justify spending $6.50 on an oil filter. A lot of commercial Napa accounts use the ProSelect as well, because it is such a good filter for the money.
The Gold has a silicon antidrainback valve, glass enhanced cellulose media, and the bypass valve is a separate cartridge type unit with a spring loaded valve.
The Silver (now it's the Proselect) has regular cellulose paper media and a rubber antidrainback valve. On some Proselects, the antidrainback valve and the bypass valve are combination rubber unit.
Both are built like tanks (they use coil springs to hold everything together, not leaf springs) - I'm a fan of the Proselect personally - they're a 1/3 the cost of the Gold and in absolute engine longevity, I don't think high dollar oil filters help.
The Silver (now it's the Proselect) has regular cellulose paper media and a rubber antidrainback valve. On some Proselects, the antidrainback valve and the bypass valve are combination rubber unit.
Both are built like tanks (they use coil springs to hold everything together, not leaf springs) - I'm a fan of the Proselect personally - they're a 1/3 the cost of the Gold and in absolute engine longevity, I don't think high dollar oil filters help.
Sorry to hijack the thread, I have a NAPA ProSelect in my car and planning to run a 3500 miles OCI with Formula Shell.
Can the ProSelect filter handle it?
Can the ProSelect filter handle it?
It should do just fine for 3500 miles. Some here say it can go longer. Personally I do not believe in using any filter longer than 3000 miles. Others here will disagree.
Any good name brand filter should be able to last in service as long as something such as the GM oil life monitor is happy.
The OLM on the folks' Park Avenue goes for right at 7,000 miles. Even a ProSelect should be good for an interval of that length.
BTW, I don't consider a Fr*m to be a "good name brand filter". the only exception being the pricey "Extended Guard" model.
The OLM on the folks' Park Avenue goes for right at 7,000 miles. Even a ProSelect should be good for an interval of that length.
BTW, I don't consider a Fr*m to be a "good name brand filter". the only exception being the pricey "Extended Guard" model.
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Any filter, from a loading standpoint, can most likely last as long as any other. The advantage of the OLM is that it, as a byproduct of its genius, is indicating the level of combustion byproduct production ..and therefore the loading of the filter.
The nitrile parts may fatigue (ADBV) ..but that doesn't mean the filter is saturated.
If your OCI, whether via OLM or mileage, extends into higher mileage range (over the 5k+/- range) then a more expensive filter may be for you.
The nitrile parts may fatigue (ADBV) ..but that doesn't mean the filter is saturated.
If your OCI, whether via OLM or mileage, extends into higher mileage range (over the 5k+/- range) then a more expensive filter may be for you.
Since you can get the Wix/NAPA Gold filters from http://www.fleetfilters.com at a very attractive price, there isn't really any reason to buy the cheaper ones.
that should be http://www.fleetfilter.com
Originally Posted By: Jimmy9190
It should do just fine for 3500 miles. Some here say it can go longer. Personally I do not believe in using any filter longer than 3000 miles. Others here will disagree.
Are you basing that on real scientific data or is that just your own opinion ?
It should do just fine for 3500 miles. Some here say it can go longer. Personally I do not believe in using any filter longer than 3000 miles. Others here will disagree.
Are you basing that on real scientific data or is that just your own opinion ?
Originally Posted By: Dantheman
Originally Posted By: Jimmy9190
It should do just fine for 3500 miles. Some here say it can go longer. Personally I do not believe in using any filter longer than 3000 miles. Others here will disagree.
Are you basing that on real scientific data or is that just your own opinion ?
No problem to 3500 normal miles. It's mile #3501 that's the bummer.
Originally Posted By: Jimmy9190
It should do just fine for 3500 miles. Some here say it can go longer. Personally I do not believe in using any filter longer than 3000 miles. Others here will disagree.
Are you basing that on real scientific data or is that just your own opinion ?
No problem to 3500 normal miles. It's mile #3501 that's the bummer.
Originally Posted By: Pete C.
Originally Posted By: Dantheman
Originally Posted By: Dantheman
Jimmy9190 said:
I'm using a ProSelect in my mom's car for a 5k OCI using Havoline Synthetic. Might consider pushing it even further, as I know 5k with syn is fairly conservative, even though it's used for a lot of city driving.
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Most of your lower tier offerings have the 3-5k crowd as a target market ..along with quick lubes (maybe under another badge) and indy shop self stock. The nitrile parts fatigue if you go much further than that. As far as saturating the media? That's more to do with your service than it is anything else. Few miles/hours per warm up? Shorter life.
Just pulled a NAPA Gold off my second car. The gasket came loose and stuck to the engine.(GM 3.1)
Lucky I caught it, as I was installing by feel(yea, I know).
Lucky I caught it, as I was installing by feel(yea, I know).
I didn't put it on there. The mechanic that fixed the LIM gasket did the oil change.
At least he used the 3980 size that was on there when he started.
At least he used the 3980 size that was on there when he started.
I always check the old filter for gasket when I remove it. The gasket is either on the filter or "stuck" on the engine.Once,when I was a teenager, I put the new filter on over the old gasket.I started my "hotrod"(1969 Dodge Dart 340),and dumped my fresh TropArtic on the ground! That was over 30 years ago,and I've never done that since. We should all learn from our mistakes,or better yet,learn from my mistake,so you don't do the same!!!! GOOD POST JUNEBUG!!!
I use the Napa Gold (1356) on my Civic. The OLM puts oil changes at just over 6000 miles and the maintenance schedule has the filter staying on for two OCIs (i.e. ~12k miles per filter change). I figure that using a high quality filter can eliminate any worry about the filter being able to survive that long. The cost is about the same as an OEM Honda filter (mfg by Honeywell at this point).
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