My sequoia brakes are giving me fits!

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So I that I had solved a problem but apparently I only fixed one of who knows how many issues. SO, 2001 Toyota Sequoia Limited; I kept having the back right rim get really hot when I drove. I posted up on here 3-4 weeks ago and after awesome forum feedback and having a mechanic friend of my family check, the brake line needed to be replaced. That was done and the problem went away. Apparently that was short lived as now BOTH back rims are hot when I drive anywhere. The front rims are cool to the touch, in fact they're so cool that I'm wondering if they're not even braking although it feels like the vehicle stops fine. I had considered a stuck caliper but I doubt that they both went bad at the same time like this so I'm really perplexed as to what the problem could be. I've checked the fluid and it's not dirty, the level is fine, I'm not losing any fluid, the sensors are all clean after an inspection and the brake pads are all new and the rotors have been turned. Anybody have any idea what this issue could be? I don't want to keep throwing parts at it and I've checked all I know or am capable as a DIY'er to check.

Thanks in advance for any assistance!
 
all brakes heat up when used normally, and this heat translates to the rims, if the brakes are working and the rims aren't smoking/red hot then its normal. also I have owned 4 Toyota trucks in my lifetime and never had to nor heard of failing brake lines unless they were damaged somehow by outside forces, these are not normally parts that simply wear out like spark plugs, brake pads etc.
 
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Thank you for the reply. I do understand that brake heat is normal, the problem originally surfaced when I walked by the back right rim in a pair of shorts after a long drive and the heat could be felt on my legs as I walked by. It was significantly hotter than the other three rims and brake dust was all over the rim. The brake line replacement fixed that issue but now it has showed up with a friend. lol If they were all warm or even hot to the touch I wouldn't be worried, but the excessive heat on one (and now 2) rims with excessive brake dust is an indicator something isn't right.
 
it sounds as if the rear brake shoes could be locked up in the drum,sometimes if the brakes are over adjusted in the rear drum they get very hot and you can smell burning brake pad from the heat. I would try to pull the drum off on the brake and see if all the self adjustment mechanisms are clean and operating properly. also on some models there are parking brake bell cranks on the rear drums that will rust and seize up and not release the brake shoe, these bell cranks look like levers in the back of the drums with the emergency brake cable attached these cranks rust and seize up the rear brakes a lot on Toyota trucks, you can remove the drums and unseize them with penetrating oil and elbow grease, dealerships usually just replace both with new ones.
 
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These are disk brakes but I do think there is some sort of adjustment that may need to be looked at. I'll try and find out how to do that. Thank you.
 
I checked online to make sure my part was correct and I believe it is. It's a rock auto part and I always double check they part when it arrives after having a damaged radiator sent to me about a year ago.
 
to check the bell cranks , release the parking brake, crawl under your truck grab the lever and you should be able to push in/ pull (rock it) the lever easily if the lever will not move in and out while pulling/pushing it the its seized up and will not unlock the brake, this happened to me
 
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My dad had a similar problem with a 06 Avalon. Frozen caliper. He's old so he didn't notice how bad things were. the heat cracked the aluminum rim and destroyed the hub. I would at least pull the caliper and check the pins
 
Originally Posted By: Tlhfirelion
Thank you for the reply. I do understand that brake heat is normal, the problem originally surfaced when I walked by the back right rim in a pair of shorts after a long drive and the heat could be felt on my legs as I walked by. It was significantly hotter than the other three rims and brake dust was all over the rim. The brake line replacement fixed that issue but now it has showed up with a friend. lol If they were all warm or even hot to the touch I wouldn't be worried, but the excessive heat on one (and now 2) rims with excessive brake dust is an indicator something isn't right.
I think the bell crank is locked up,http://www.yotatech.com/f120/parking-break-bell-crank-stuck-179697/
 
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When you say "level" are you referring to the bell crank itself or the cable/turnbuckle under the B post drivers side by the frame rail? Thank you
 
I just saw the pic you sent, thank you! It's raining now and as I tell my wife, "I can't go out in the rain baby, sugar melts". lol I'll check it when I'm able and report back.
 
I took off the tire and rotor and the e/parking brake looked on. It was a little stiff but some lube was added to an already freely moving part. Thank you for the help.
 
I've already done that part and there was one pin that was ever so slightly slower to retract than the other, but not enough to cause the issue, or so I think. I did clean the slider pics and regressed them and they both moved well after that. I did order a new slider pin boot set up since it was dirt cheap so I'll go ahead and throw that part at it when I'm rechecking everything. Thank you for your reply
 
is the proportioning valve the box with the metal tubes coming out of it? How can I check either one of these? (master or PV)

thank you
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
I'm guessing master cylinder or proportioning valve.


I had a master cylinder go out on my mercedes and it caused similar symptoms. When your foot is off the pedal it's supposed to uncover a fluid path up to the reservoir to relieve pressure (or allow new fluid to dribble in if needed.) In my case the brakes would heat up, not vent pressure, and self-apply. I also had a remarkably stiff pedal-- you usually get a couple mm of travel so it's noticeable.
 
Easy to tell if front brakes are not working as the rotor will rust up. Clean surface at least means they are working some.
 
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