Yes, Euro oils.
NAPA oil is the same price in my town as QS at Walmart. I already go to NAPA for NAPA Gold filters. Walmart is 1 block from NAPA and both are near my home. I don't travel much, but if I do, NAPA is in more small rural towns than Walmart and both are in medium and large cities in my region.For regular 5K intervals you really will not see a difference between those 2 or Supertech/Kirkland.
With that being said for the 2 you listed I would go with Quaker State because it is cheaper and always available at Walmart and many corner stores, dollar generals, etc while there may not always be a NAPA by you when you need it for a top up.
QSUPFS is approx same $ as NAPA syn. So with approx equal cost it's just a matter of convenience and performance. Maybe also viscosity. I like a high KV100 cSt 5w30 (to reduce oil leaks and/or burning in old HM engines).If you want to spend a couple dollars more you cannot go wrong with the Ultimate Protection.
True, and for filters I'm a NAPA Gold fanboy.Napa can sometimes have some catchy deals though including a filter though.
I guess there's only one thing I don't like about QSUPFS. I'd have to 2 stores. I'd have to go into Walmart for oil and NAPA for NAPA Gold filter.Give the QSUP a run -- checks multiple boxes with price being one...
You like Havoline or you like the big jugs? I mean the 6 qt jugs or is it a 6 qt box? Someone earlier said 6 qt jug, but you said box.Havoline in the boxes at WM gets my vote.
A real ‘sleeper’ oil for sure.
The best Oil is debatable, what oils were you using and what were your OCI's? Why were the best oil's a waste of money? Did you do UOA's on the best oil's that you were using? I hope I am not wrong, but I know we debate about oil on this Forum, but I also thought we wanted to find the best oil.Years ago I was on a quest for the best oil I could get. That led to a lot of wasted money.
In recent years I'm on a quest for good cheap oil. From among low cost options, which are good performers, low cost, and easily locally available from Walmart, NAPA, or Oreilly because those are the oil sellers near my home.
Here's my finalists. Please tell me which you think is better and why (for 3 high mileage vehicles that don't leak oil, though one does burn oil).
NAPA High Mileage Full Syn
Quaker State High Mileage Full Syn
NAPA Full Syn
Quaker State Ultimate Protection Full Syn
I'm also open to other good oils suggestions if they're low cost at Walmart, NAPA, or Oreilly.
Super tech or Kirkland signature will be the best pour per buck.Years ago I was on a quest for the best oil I could get. That led to a lot of wasted money.
In recent years I'm on a quest for good cheap oil. From among low cost options, which are good performers, low cost, and easily locally available from Walmart, NAPA, or Oreilly because those are the oil sellers near my home.
Here's my finalists. Please tell me which you think is better and why (for 3 high mileage vehicles that don't leak oil, though one does burn oil).
NAPA High Mileage Full Syn
Quaker State High Mileage Full Syn
NAPA Full Syn
Quaker State Ultimate Protection Full Syn
I'm also open to other good oils suggestions if they're low cost at Walmart, NAPA, or Oreilly.
UOAs don’t work like you’re assuming they do. If an oil doesn’t keep contaminants in suspension, it will show an artificially low ppm result in a UOA; this is part of the “fabled” M1 increased iron results in UOAs, albeit the other direction, since M1 is generally releasing some of the accumulated deposits.Lakespeed tested wear rates using VOAs and UOAs of Amsoil OE, Royal Purple, Supertech, and NAPA oils.
Amsoil OE, Royal Purple, and Supertech each performed equally well with excellent results (very low wear results). NAPA synthetic oil was the outlier. NAPA outperformed the other 3 and NAPA cost the least! See that video in next post below.
I'm already going to be going to NAPA to buy NAPA Gold filters. So NAPA oil is a near no brainer for me.
However, I also like Quaker State Ultimate Protection Full Syn and Quaker State High Mileage Full Syn for what I suspect to be good performance, though I have no data to back that up. I do know they have slightly higher viscosity per grade (than Valvoline or NAPA) which I like for my older engines. I also like QS prices and availability in my local stores.
They are boxesYou like Havoline or you like the big jugs? I mean the 6 qt jugs or is it a 6 qt box? Someone earlier said 6 qt jug, but you said box.
I used to use regular Mobil One, Mobil One Truck & SUV, and PUP. A friend using Supertech got 410K miles from a 96 Jeep Cherokee. Mobil & PUP did nothing for me that Supertech didn't also do for him, and he saved a ton of money over 410K miles.The best Oil is debatable, what oils were you using and what were your OCI's? Why were the best oil's a waste of money?
No UOAs, but I did observe PUP gave me much less oil pressure than M1 Truck & SUV. Regular Valvoline or Maxlife also give me better oil pressure than PUP did. QSHMFS & especially QSUPFS have notably higher cSt @ KV100 than PUP or Mobil. QSUPFS might also be GTL, but I'm not sure.Did you do UOA's on the best oil's that you were using?
No we don't all want to find the best oil. Some want the cheapest adequate certified oil. Some (like me) want an above average oil that's cheap and readily available in most towns. Other people may have other goals.I hope I am not wrong, but I know we debate about oil on this Forum, but I also thought we wanted to find the best oil.
There's nothing wrong with cheap oil that's certified. They're good enough. Some cheap oils are more than good enough. Some cheap oils are better than some expensive oils. Please click link below.The way cars cost today I would not want to use a cheap oil. I have 3 neighbors with cars that are almost 30 years old, 2 of them have been using Amsoil and the other 1 is using Mobil 1
Did you watch Lakespeed's video that I posted? He said the NAPA Full Syn has more of a superior type of moly in it that explains the lower wear in his UOAs tests. However, you might have also made a valid point about suspension of particles. I don't know.UOAs don’t work like you’re assuming they do. If an oil doesn’t keep contaminants in suspension, it will show an artificially low ppm result in a UOA; this is part of the “fabled” M1 increased iron results in UOAs, albeit the other direction, since M1 is generally releasing some of the accumulated deposits.
TL;DR: if an oil lets stuff settle on surfaces, the UOA will look AMAZING to those who don’t know what reality is.
No we don't all want to find the best oil. Some want the cheapest adequate certified oil. Some (like me) want an above average oil that's cheap and readily available in most towns. Other people may have other goals.I hope I am not wrong, but I know we debate about oil on this Forum, but I also thought we wanted to find the best oil.
I have an issue with what you are saying, and you are entitled to what you are saying, let's be realistic here. If every certified oil that is the cheapest was so good, then why do we have the need for oil's like Valvoline Restore and Protect? The other goals like you said are very interesting, is your goal to buy a car and use the cheapest oil and then sell it, or is your goal to keep it for the long hall?
VRP is a specialty oil designed to solve a specific problem.ot sure.
No we don't all want to find the best oil. Some want the cheapest adequate certified oil. Some (like me) want an above average oil that's cheap and readily available in most towns. Other people may have other goals.
Who makes Napa Gold filters these days?NAPA Gold filter
And it's even better when Napa includes it in its monthly sale, either quarts or jugs.NAPA Full Synthetic is fine oil. It's made by Valvoline. I ran it in my old Sentra for years. No complaints.
If it's readily available, and the price is right, DO IT!
Who makes Napa Gold filters these days?