My pipes are moaning! HELP!

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Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
You can do this "hot" ..but the repair will be less than mori spec. You just over load the supply (turn on a few other faucets that share the line (hot or cold) and just allow it to run out the exposed valve body. Swap in your new seat, and tighten 'er up.


..but that would be cheating...


With mori's experience of hot situations, it would be a cinch.

Neighbours might not like the droop in water pressure, but with a man of mystery and action living in the same block, they'll know something's happening.
 
That's "international" man of mystery. Speaking of that, we haven't heard much from Crown-Vic man ...nor the ?th Street sniper.

Must be the global currency crunch. They just don't hand out contracts like they used to.
 
Could this be due to increased line pressure? In our part of the country, some towns install a pressure reducing valve on the main water line to the house.
 
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Do other people in your complex have the same problem?


The downstairs neighbor had the same problem for a few weeks. I don't know why it stopped.
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Well, there can be air hammer, but seeing as your valve opening is critical to the sound, I'd say you've got some seat issue. You need a new washer. You can tell it being isolated to one valve/faucet on the same supply.


You missed a great opportunity to blame it on Mori's internal plumbing here...
 
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Originally Posted By: moribundman
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Do other people in your complex have the same problem?


The downstairs neighbor had the same problem for a few weeks. I don't know why it stopped.


Does it just do it on the hot water side?
 
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Originally Posted By: moribundman
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Do other people in your complex have the same problem?


The downstairs neighbor had the same problem for a few weeks. I don't know why it stopped.


Does it just do it on the hot water side?


It does it only on the hot side. When I slowly open the valve, water only trickles out while the noise and rattling start. If I rapidly open the valve, flow improves and the noise and rattling can be "almost" avoided.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: oilyriser
Originally Posted By: Shannow
There's got to be a way to harness the phenomenon.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_ram


They're sold quite frequently down under for high head farm use.


In one of our engineering lab classes we ran tests on one and determined efficiency and the effects of changes of various parameters on efficiency.
 
I just ran across this post, so I figured I'd post an update. I removed the knob from the hot water valve. Under the valve, I found a shut-off screw in the water pipe. I turned off the water and could quickly gain access to the valve's cone washer. The cone washer was worn out, meaning it was flat with little of its cone shape remaining. The seat onto which the washer fit was still looking smooth and clean. I simply replaced the cone washer, which immediately exorcised all noisy demons.
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Originally Posted By: duaneb9729
Could this be due to increased line pressure? In our part of the country, some towns install a pressure reducing valve on the main water line to the house.


Around here the pressure reducing valve is the customer's responsibility.
 
Originally Posted By: XS650
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: oilyriser
Originally Posted By: Shannow
There's got to be a way to harness the phenomenon.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_ram


They're sold quite frequently down under for high head farm use.


In one of our engineering lab classes we ran tests on one and determined efficiency and the effects of changes of various parameters on efficiency.


Just this morning was reading an article that the lower chamber of the great pyramid (the subterranean, carved into the rock part) is opined by some as being a functional ram pump.

Apparently some dude made a scale model, and it works.
 
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