My oil pan

[AcuraTech]

Originally Posted By: jazztrumpet216
I bet you never would've said that if we were talking about a Honda's oil pan rusting out.


My Acura has an aluminum oil pan, so it's not an issue.

My Tauruses had oil pans that were rotten and rusty though. I thought that all of the oil leaking out of the pan gasket would have kept the rust at bay. Apparently not.

A 5 year old truck should in no way have an oil pan so rusty that it's leaking. Not saying it doesn't happen, just saying that whatever they coated/painted the pan with must be complete garbage.

 

[salesrep]

I am going to make a sheet metal JB weld sandwich next. When that doesn't work, I'm going to a welder and doing what you say John.

 

[andyd]

I would advise against welding/ brazing a mounted oil pan. I know a guy who attempted it and the resulting explosion from the fumes blew the brazing torch back into his nose, breaking it and blackened both his eyes.
I also had limited success in patching the leaky oilpan on my Jeep with JB Weld.. It did slow the leaks down, but failed to stop them. Go for a new or good used pan.

 

[CITYSLICKER]

My .02 would be to make do with the epoxy stuff til you can do it right ( replacement ).

At the very minimum the crankcase should be purged with CO2 before welding or brazing to avoid fire and/or explosion .

Seriously , fire is cool stuff , but not comfortable to wear .

 

[deeter16317]

Is the $350 from Dodge or Cummins???

Find a Cummins dealer and have them do the work...I have them do all my work when I can't do it...

Cummins is typically more competent than the DCX techs, and typically charge less per hour. Parts are typically a lot less at Cummins as well...

 

[deeter16317]

I found a couple leads for a oil pan (used)...if they get back with me, I'll forward their info to you...

 

[salesrep]

The stealership quoted 8.3 hours and 350 for the pan.
My research has indicated that is about right.

 

[salesrep]

Drove for 300 miles. Truck sat for 2 1/2 days. Minor dribbles. No measurable oil loss. Drove back 300.
Just parked her in the drive and it looks like I may be able to get away with the bandaid for awhile. Dip stick measurement has shown no oil loss in 4 days and 600 mile. We'll see. I can't decide whether to do the expoxy sheet metal sandwich or just let it be for awhile. If all it is going to be is a few drips a night and some make-up oil, I could live with that.

 

[Dualie]

I would clean thoroughly with brake or carb clean

wire brush the living snot out of it.

Clean again.

Brush some more.

then brake clean again.

mix up a LARGE batch of JB weld and thoroughly coat everything down there that might look like it could be a problem 50 years from now.

Then use several coats of rustoleum industrial spray bomb.


The key is to Get the surface as clean as possible. And then a little bit cleaner.

Rust is cancer. If there is any left it will rear it head again. don't be stingy with the JB weld. use a plastic spreader and coat everything.

 

[andyd]

Originally Posted By: Dualie
I would clean thoroughly with brake or carb clean

wire brush the living snot out of it.

Clean again.

Brush some more.

then brake clean again.

mix up a LARGE batch of JB weld and thoroughly coat everything down there that might look like it could be a problem 50 years from now.

Then use several coats of rustoleum industrial spray bomb.


The key is to Get the surface as clean as possible. And then a little bit cleaner.

Rust is cancer. If there is any left it will rear it head again. don't be stingy with the JB weld. use a plastic spreader and coat everything.
BTDT, still leaks. Have new pan ,but haven't got a round tuit.