VQ30DE ('96 Maxima) Rear Main Seal replacement

Joined
Mar 2, 2004
Messages
4,312
Location
Kentucky
Only leak I've ever had on this car is a weeping input shaft seal on the auto transmission, I have to add a few oz. of fluid every few months. I started seeing signs of an actual leak where I park and transmission fluid was staying full. Checked oil and it was about a quart low. Very unusual-- this car has never used oil between changes.

Raised it up and it's leaking engine oil quite rapidly, dripping from inside the bell housing which seems to point to the RMS. This is very sudden and I'm quite surprised it became this bad so quickly.

Anyone done one of these? I believe removing the transmission is a given, which is at the very least a several hour job. I can do the work no problem and having the vehicle out of service for an extended period of time isn't an issue. I have tools & 2-post lift but I'm stuck on the fence whether the juice is worth the squeeze. No major issues with the car but some body rust is starting to take hold, along with a rusting front subframe crossmember (4th gen Maxima guys will be familiar with this) that probably needs attention in the next year or two. Half of me wants to cut my losses and spend my time doing something else, but then hitting 400K with this car would be quite a milestone too. It's unbeatable for a commuter car (70 miles a day)-- comfortable, fairly fuel efficient with plenty get-up-and-go. Keeps mileage off my more expensive vehicles, which I'd prefer to just use for leisure / long trip driving.

Am I crazy wanting to repair it? The only wildcard IMO would be putting the time into it, then having another major component fail shortly afterward-- transmission, timing chain, etc.
 
The 4th gen Maxima doesn't really have timing chain and transmission problems :)

Spray the crossmember with Krown or something before it's too late! Even though it's starting to rust, you can stop it from getting worse.

Try some stop leak first. Better to spend $10-20 and a few minutes than a few hours dropping the transmission :sneaky:
 
The 4th gen Maxima doesn't really have timing chain and transmission problems :)

Spray the crossmember with Krown or something before it's too late! Even though it's starting to rust, you can stop it from getting worse.

Try some stop leak first. Better to spend $10-20 and a few minutes than a few hours dropping the transmission :sneaky:
I think this leak is too far gone for stop leak and I've never been a fan of band-aids. It really came out of nowhere. A couple days of driving after I first noticed spots on the gravel driveway (gravel tends to hide oil spots unlike flat concrete), I was about 1-1/4 quarts low. After refilling it over the weekend, I took it to work today and it left a liquid puddle where it sat, so it's losing a lot.
 
I think this leak is too far gone for stop leak and I've never been a fan of band-aids. It really came out of nowhere. A couple days of driving after I first noticed spots on the gravel driveway (gravel tends to hide oil spots unlike flat concrete), I was about 1-1/4 quarts low. After refilling it over the weekend, I took it to work today and it left a liquid puddle where it sat, so it's losing a lot.
I once had a civic that started the dreaded oil pump leak.

1) I noticed this leak a few weeks after doing the timing belt

2) replacing the oil pump seal requires pulling the timing belt and pan.

3) I did the whole job and had no regrets but only satisfaction when I had a leak free car.

Considering how cheap this is, I would do the job. Unless your time is immensely valuable, why not just replace the $20 part? Have you watched videos of taking the transmission out? Does it look out of the ordinary?
 
Sounds to me like you're somewhat at a Y crossroad. If you have the tools & can work on it when you can then I say give it a go. Age is what makes driving one of these cars interesting. But sounds like you've also gotten your money's worth out of it too. Only you can decide but why not? If you like the car & want to continue to see it on the road for as long as possible then awesome. I remember these cars on the road once upon a time. A buddy of mine had one & it was a nice car. Anything can go wrong w/a car at half of those miles so the worry bug is always present but don't let it get the best of you. If this will be a fairly low cost repair & believe you can get your money's worth out of that repair.
 
Sounds to me like you're somewhat at a Y crossroad. If you have the tools & can work on it when you can then I say give it a go. Age is what makes driving one of these cars interesting. But sounds like you've also gotten your money's worth out of it too. Only you can decide but why not? If you like the car & want to continue to see it on the road for as long as possible then awesome. I remember these cars on the road once upon a time. A buddy of mine had one & it was a nice car. Anything can go wrong w/a car at half of those miles so the worry bug is always present but don't let it get the best of you. If this will be a fairly low cost repair & believe you can get your money's worth out of that repair.
Great points, the last couple posts.

I took insurance off it and it's going to sit probably until spring, when I usually get a lot more motivation for bigger car projects. I have other cars to drive for now. I filled the gas tank and put the battery on a trickle charger.

A few months down the road, I'll have decided whether: a) I miss it or am bored/need a project (I'd put the odds on this over 50%), or b) a waste of time / enough money saved on insurance.

My latest teenager to start driving (learners permit) wanted her own car (purchased herself), which put me at 5 cars on a single policy. That seems to be the threshold where rates really ratchet up-- above and beyond just a teenager being on the policy :)
 
Great points, the last couple posts.

I took insurance off it and it's going to sit probably until spring, when I usually get a lot more motivation for bigger car projects. I have other cars to drive for now. I filled the gas tank and put the battery on a trickle charger.

A few months down the road, I'll have decided whether: a) I miss it or am bored/need a project (I'd put the odds on this over 50%), or b) a waste of time / enough money saved on insurance.

My latest teenager to start driving (learners permit) wanted her own car (purchased herself), which put me at 5 cars on a single policy. That seems to be the threshold where rates really ratchet up-- above and beyond just a teenager being on the policy :)
I understand the project/desire to get something fixed up & running down the road again w/out leaving a trail of oil wherever you go. According to ISEECARS "longest lasting vehicles" auto average to make it to 250k is like 8%. Most vehicles never make it that far so the 325k in your sig is well above & beyond what anyone would expect out of a car. How long have you had it?

Bump the thread with whichever you decide. ;)
 
How long have you had it?

Bump the thread with whichever you decide. ;)
The history is my mom bought it a year after I graduated high school (2002-ish). IIRC it had 70K when she bought it used. She drove it to 200K with few issues other than what her mechanic recommended. I recall a radiator replacement/shocks/struts around 150K, a semi-major expense for an older car. Around 200K she took it in for a "checkup" and they recommended an ECU replacement (some kind of idling issue); total was $3K+ in repairs, she decided it wasn't worth it and wanted something new anyway. She tried to trade it in and they offered her $400 on trade. Called me up one day and said if you want it for $400, you can have it. That was 2014.

Car spent its first 13 years or so in southern Nevada (where I graduated high school), then St. Louis, MO until 2014. I wasted no time driving from Colorado (where I lived) to MO to buy it from her. Had 201K when I drove it home from MO to CO, zero issues making it back.

I had it in CO from perhaps 200K to 250K, then I moved to KY. I put a water pump in it around 220K, new suspension front & back around the same time, little else other than maintenance. The fact that I do the work myself made this possible. Take an older car in for a $2K mechanic bill and people get rid of it, which is why I don't see a lot of these on the road anymore.

I will definitely update the thread when decision time comes! Thanks for the interest.
 
The history is my mom bought it a year after I graduated high school (2002-ish). IIRC it had 70K when she bought it used. She drove it to 200K with few issues other than what her mechanic recommended. I recall a radiator replacement/shocks/struts around 150K, a semi-major expense for an older car. Around 200K she took it in for a "checkup" and they recommended an ECU replacement (some kind of idling issue); total was $3K+ in repairs, she decided it wasn't worth it and wanted something new anyway. She tried to trade it in and they offered her $400 on trade. Called me up one day and said if you want it for $400, you can have it. That was 2014.

Car spent its first 13 years or so in southern Nevada (where I graduated high school), then St. Louis, MO until 2014. I wasted no time driving from Colorado (where I lived) to MO to buy it from her. Had 201K when I drove it home from MO to CO, zero issues making it back.

I had it in CO from perhaps 200K to 250K, then I moved to KY. I put a water pump in it around 220K, new suspension front & back around the same time, little else other than maintenance. The fact that I do the work myself made this possible. Take an older car in for a $2K mechanic bill and people get rid of it, which is why I don't see a lot of these on the road anymore.

I will definitely update the thread when decision time comes! Thanks for the interest.
Another fellow Millennial 🍻
Great history & you know that it's been in a rust free zone for quite some time which is what I contribute as well to seeing older cars on the road. When I go down to the Rio Grand Valley in TX I see all sorts of rust free 80-90's vehicles. Thanks for the info.
 

Most of these have rotted away where I am, even on a clean one it looks like quite a job (upper/lower oil pan removal)
I'd buy OE seals and gaskets for the inevitable while your in there's 🙄
I believe Ultra grey is the sealant of choice
Study the job closely, and good luck 🤞 🫡
 

Most of these have rotted away where I am, even on a clean one it looks like quite a job (upper/lower oil pan removal)
I'd buy OE seals and gaskets for the inevitable while your in there's 🙄
I believe Ultra grey is the sealant of choice
Study the job closely, and good luck 🤞 🫡
It would definitely be a project which is why I'm on the fence. Since these cars were around when forums were popular (up till 2010-ish), there's a lot of forum posts / online resources documenting the process. I hate following Youtube videos.

Said internet lore, there's enough room to pull the trans out of the way once you remove axles, cables, etc. I'm told that it can be done without removing the upper oil pan, but I'd prefer to do that anyways to ensure a new seal on the accessory side of the engine, no reason to cut corners. I've basically switched over to Ultra grey for all my FIPG, it's most similar to what I see used from the factory (across all makes I've worked on) and I've had zero sealing issues since I started using it.
 

Most of these have rotted away where I am, even on a clean one it looks like quite a job (upper/lower oil pan removal)
I'd buy OE seals and gaskets for the inevitable while your in there's 🙄
I believe Ultra grey is the sealant of choice
Study the job closely, and good luck 🤞 🫡

Just wanted to say thank you for the CHARM links. What an awesome project and incredible resource
 
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