My house needs a new roof.

[Matt_S]

Kestas' experience sounds a lot like mine when I recently had my house re-roofed. My house is 1600 sq. ft. plus a 2 car attached garage. The roof is very complicated with a lot of peaks and valleys. I paid $7,500. The shingles are 25 year dimensional. The valleys are weaved and there is 3 ft. of ice shield along the eves. They also added a lot more venting. Don't be surprised if they recommend the same to you. It seems that the amount of venting recommended for roofs has increased significantly in recent years.

My in-laws recently converted to a metal roof. It's nice in cold climates since the snow will slide off, preventing the roof from carrying all that snow load. You have to take measures to prevent it from sliding off over entryways, though (they added a little peak above the door to deflect the snow to the side). The typical metal roof is not very attractive, but it lasts for a helluva long time. If you want to spend some extra money, I believe they make fancier versions now that would be acceptable in most subs. Even the basic versions are more expensive than asphalt, but you're paying for longevity.

 

[Kestas]

If you're flexible on the choice of color, go with a lighter color. This'll reduce the thermal cycling (day/night) that wears on the materials and can add about 4 years to the life of the roof.

Active venting (electric fan with thermostatic switch) can be considered.

 

[jmacmaster]

I'd also check out the metal roofs. They look great, are quite popular in the west, last a long time, and go up real quick. If you drive the high mountain country of Idaho, where they get a LOT of snow, metal is about all anyone uses, as the snow slides right off. They come in numerous nice colors and the paint lasts a LONG time. I believe that its baked on enamel. I have them on my garage and large shed and wish I'd put one on my house instead of shingles. And if there's a wildfire, they won't burn if hot ashes or coals land on them.

 

[9296D21B14]

Just this weekend finished remove/replace on my Katrina damaged roof. 3000 sq ft house, T shaped house with a 10 pitch. Tan/gray dimensional shingle 35 year roof with all new flashing on 3 chimneys, an upstairs dormer, new felt, plus 70' of ridge vents. $12k. At least I'll be dry when the renewal premium increase arrives at the peak of the upcoming hurricane season. Already had the fan assisted/thermostat ventilation. Roofers work VERY hard. Of course, research the contractor, references, verify license and insurance, etc.

 

[joee12]

Spend A LOT of time to do research of contractors, and get a few quotes before you make a decision. And good luck, mine just cost me 9K

 

[Al]

In addition to other information: Get shingles that are resistant to the new generation of mold that forms on roofs. I think it has some copper in the shingle. Get ridge vents installed. Go with a reputable contractor that has insurance for workers.

 

[tom slick]

quote:

---

Originally posted by joee12:
Spend A LOT of time to do research of contractors, and get a few quotes before you make a decision. And good luck, mine just cost me 9K

---

that is sage advice. budget roofers are notoriously flakey. the best roof material in the world won't compensate for a bad flashing job. look around at other roofs to see what you like and don't like. make sure to have a drip edge installed and any doodads needed for snow.

 

[Evil Ron]

I need all the advice I can get! I've never had to replace a roof before and I need to know what brands of shingles are good and what the labor charges can run. Also, things to be wary of...

 

[ediamiam]

Got me a metal roof on a 1900sf 2 story house. Very simple layout, only 1 peak. $10000 about 10 years back. Next door neighbor got a quote from same contractor, $15000, single story, smaller house, but lots of peaks and valleys-complex. They didn't ask me about putting vents in, but it is vented by an thermostatic controlled lectric fan. He showed me a couple of different samples and recommended the one I went with. They built over the existing roof, placing a lattice work of 1x2 for support for the metal. Insulation was placed between the support. When on the roof you walk on the edges, on top of the lattice, otw you bend the metal

 

[Kestas]

Here's a few tips:

The cost of roof repair is mostly labor.

Most communities allow only two roofs (one reroof) before they need to be removed for the next roof. Some purists insist on always removing the old roof before putting the new one on.

Sometimes there's damaged (from leaks and moisture) plywood decking that needs to be replaced during a roofing job. This is sometimes easliy diagnosed by soft spots on the roof. If this is diagnosed, then the old roof must come off.

The old familiar three tab shingles are going the way of the dinosaur. It is now common to use dimensional shake shingles, which are solid and not tabbed, and last considerably longer than the old three tabs. Get the best shingle material available.

It is now common (in our climate) to run a three-foot wide layer of ice-shield above the bottom eave and in the valleys under the shingles. There's also a product called granulated ice shield for the valleys.

It is now common to weave the valleys rather than leaving a gap for the valley runner.

Make sure any flashing (roof against wall or chimney) is in good condition.

If you have a custom home, you could consider a metal roof if you don't live in a subdivision.

For reference, I got a quote of $5K to reroof my 1350 sq ft house, remove three roofs!, new gutters, and all the popular modern amenities I mentioned above.

 

[Islandvic]

check out roofers listed with the BBB and the local Builder's Association (or equivalent).

Go for the 20-25yr shingles.

While you are having roof work done, I would blow in some extra insulation in the attic. Home Depot rents you the machine that blows it in for free if you buy enough insulation. It will pay for its self quickly.

Dont go for the lowest bidder.

Also, make sure you get to keep all of the left over materials. Roofers are nortorious about buying extra shingles, flashing, etc etc and charging you for it, and taking it home.

After a few jobs, they have enough material for a whole roof!

ALSO!!!!

Make sure the attic is properly ventilated! Most attics are not and cause build up of heat which increases summer utility bills. The roofers can add extra ventilation. (I have seen it numerous times. I'm a realtor and see many home inspection reports. Inadequate attic ventilation is very very common)

 

[Matt_S]

quote:

---

Dont go for the lowest bidder.

---

I actually did go for the lowest bidder, but the company I used was the same one that had recently done my parents' house. They had a very good experience and so did I. Each of us did have to call the company back out to look at a leak (our roofs are both complicated, so a leak wasn't surprising). They did so promptly and fixed it the first time for no charge, no questions asked.

So, what I'm saying is that if the lowest bidder is known to be reputable, don't shy away from them. Mine doubled my ventilation, gave me all the extra material and took care of all the bad wood.

 

[Bret Chase]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Kestas:
[
It is now common (in our climate) to run a three-foot wide layer of ice-shield above the bottom eave and in the valleys under the shingles. There's also a product called granulated ice shield for the valleys.

It is now common to weave the valleys rather than leaving a gap for the valley runner.

Make sure any flashing (roof against wall or chimney) is in good condition.

---

Now in my lifetime, I have layed over 100,000 sq feet of shingles, so I speak from experience. In my area, we lay 6' of bithuthene at all eaves, 3' at rakes (only if requested) and 9' on a valley (4.5feet to either side). the granulated bituthene is completely useless.. it doesn't bond to anything well, you actually have to nail it.
down to keep it in place.

3 tabs are less common, we do mostly architectural shingles from Owens Corning or GAF.

you can't weave architectural shingles... they're too thick. what is done is called a closed cut valley, where you run the main roof about 12" up the smaller roof, then snap a line and cut the smaller roof's shingles to the line. I prefer the look of an open cut valley, esp with copper flashing.

flashing is critical.. from experience, anyone who goes near roof flashing with a caulking gun needs their hands broke with a hammer. the most important thing about flashing is it's ability to let water OUT. caulking just traps water in.

thankfully, in the last 4 years or so, we've gotten away from shingling roofs.. now we only do our own buildings, or if things get really slow. we are also far from cheap and use 30 or 35 year shingles only. 3 years ago I did a cedar single roof, it was 13 square, IIRC.. it took me 3 weeks and cost the owner over 13k. looks nice though.

 

[medic]

Metal is the only way to go if you plan on being there till you die. It costs a bit more to start, but it will last forever.

 

[Al]

quote:

---

Originally posted by medic:
if you plan on being there till you die.

---

Maybe not in my case. Im 60