My "FREE" Dodge Ram 1500

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Originally Posted By: dogememe
Originally Posted By: Srt20
The fluid drains out of the torque convertor when it sits. This is why it wont go when cold. Put it in neutral for 2-4 seconds before drive or reverse. That pumps fluid into the TC. Supposedly its supposed to pump fluid in park on those trannys but Ive found it works faster in neutral. I have 2 dodge trannys that do this. IIRC there is a check valve that can be replaced to fix this, but 1 truck has 220k on it and ironically I just gave it to my dad for free for a woodhauler. And my other truck doesnt do it unless its sat for 3-4 days. So I have no plans to fix it.


This is assuming the fluid is up to level. BTW there is 2 filters in thoses trannys, 545re.


Good info! Thanks
smile.gif
I will change both filters first thing! And if I drop the pan to change the filter can I change the check valve, or is it deeper in the tranny?


TBH I dont know where it is. I never dug into it deeper because it wasnt a big deal to me.
 
I just checked into it.

Turns out its in the spin on filter. 04799662 is the OEM part# you want. 04799662AB is NOT what you want. No AB suffix.

I used some filters from Oreilly's or Napa or something. Guess I should have sprung for the OEM there...
 
Originally Posted By: Srt20
I just checked into it.

Turns out its in the spin on filter. 04799662 is the OEM part# you want. 04799662AB is NOT what you want. No AB suffix.

I used some filters from Oreilly's or Napa or something. Guess I should have sprung for the OEM there...


Wait what, am I understanding you right? That valve thing you are talking about is IN the filter?
 
Originally Posted By: dogememe
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Originally Posted By: maximus
2005 is too old for uber.
cant be a truck either.


Hehe, for the bay area the requirements are:

Model year 2002 or newer
4-door car or minivan
Good condition with no cosmetic damage
No commercial branding
Pass a vehicle inspection

And I just had a customer at work last week using an early 2000s Tacoma...
But I was more kidding, not worth the gas to do Uber - if anything I should do it in the Escape. Though it would be an interesting experiment.

I've seen four-door trucks used for Uber(mostly Tacomas or Ridgelines) and I knew someone who did Doordash in her old Grand Caravan. She did Uber in her new Sienna on her downtime but she was also chewing up through $200+ Bridgestone run-flats that Toyota fits to all AWD Siennas. Oakland is HARD on tires.

I actually got picked up in a Raptor used as an Uber in carpool once.
grin.gif


Back on topic, Chryslers are actually decently engineered but the accountants had final say there. Since it's a truck using the newer Jeep PowerTech engine and probably a newer revision of their 4-speed TorqueFlite derivative I say fix the easy stuff first. Fresh fluids, see if the tranny needs a band adjustment. I think Chrysler still used bands in their RWD units that weren't Aisins and definitely not the Mercedes/ZF gearboxes. Spend a day detailing the interior, no fancy stuff needed - just some strong degreaser and a 303 wipe-down afterwards.

As for the heater core, I'd get the best you can afford and swap it out. You might also need to R&R the refrigerant in order to remove the HVAC unit. The diff could be an interesting DIY project if you're up to tearing it down, replacing the bearings and maybe swapping out the gearset. Maybe find a posi-equipped rear end at a junkyard with disc brakes?
 
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I always thought a newer ridgeline with a cap on it would be a really good winter uber vehicle. My next truck actually might be a ridgeline if the used prices drop enough.
 
Originally Posted By: dogememe
Originally Posted By: Srt20
I just checked into it.

Turns out its in the spin on filter. 04799662 is the OEM part# you want. 04799662AB is NOT what you want. No AB suffix.

I used some filters from Oreilly's or Napa or something. Guess I should have sprung for the OEM there...


Wait what, am I understanding you right? That valve thing you are talking about is IN the filter?


I read that it was in the spin on filter inside the pan. Dodge put out a TSB about the spin on filter. Later I also read there is a check valve inside the tranny cooler line near the cooler/radiator itself.

I didnt dig into it further, but looks like its in one of those two places?

If it were me, and I was going to change the fluid and filters regardless, Id use the OEM filters and Supertech ATF+4 fluid. If that didnt fix it, Id forget about it and just let it "warm up" for 10 seconds or so when starting from cold. In fact, if for some reason I had the cooler lines apart and there was a check valve in the lines, Id remove it totally. Last thing Id want is the valve to stick close and overheat or starve the trans.
 
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Originally Posted By: nthach
Originally Posted By: dogememe
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Originally Posted By: maximus
2005 is too old for uber.
cant be a truck either.


Hehe, for the bay area the requirements are:

Model year 2002 or newer
4-door car or minivan
Good condition with no cosmetic damage
No commercial branding
Pass a vehicle inspection

And I just had a customer at work last week using an early 2000s Tacoma...
But I was more kidding, not worth the gas to do Uber - if anything I should do it in the Escape. Though it would be an interesting experiment.

I've seen four-door trucks used for Uber(mostly Tacomas or Ridgelines) and I knew someone who did Doordash in her old Grand Caravan. She did Uber in her new Sienna on her downtime but she was also chewing up through $200+ Bridgestone run-flats that Toyota fits to all AWD Siennas. Oakland is HARD on tires.

I actually got picked up in a Raptor used as an Uber in carpool once.
grin.gif


Back on topic, Chryslers are actually decently engineered but the accountants had final say there. Since it's a truck using the newer Jeep PowerTech engine and probably a newer revision of their 4-speed TorqueFlite derivative I say fix the easy stuff first. Fresh fluids, see if the tranny needs a band adjustment. I think Chrysler still used bands in their RWD units that weren't Aisins and definitely not the Mercedes/ZF gearboxes. Spend a day detailing the interior, no fancy stuff needed - just some strong degreaser and a 303 wipe-down afterwards.

As for the heater core, I'd get the best you can afford and swap it out. You might also need to R&R the refrigerant in order to remove the HVAC unit. The diff could be an interesting DIY project if you're up to tearing it down, replacing the bearings and maybe swapping out the gearset. Maybe find a posi-equipped rear end at a junkyard with disc brakes?


This trans is NOT the old Torqueflite...this is the new-for-1999 545RFE, with double overdrive and three planetary gearsets. The 6-speed automatics used in Rams even now are directly derived from this trans.

Big one: use ONLY ATF+4 in it!
 
So I can get powertorque fk331 at O'Reilly... Do we know if that thing has the right valve?
 
Nevermind found a Mopar. Will change and see what happens. Took truck to exhaust shop to make sure the ticking noise was not the engine, and it's apparently not, it's the exhaust gaskets.
 
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
I have had the most fun with vehicles I paid less than a $1000 for. Especially old Cadillacs. Scratches don't bother you, dents- character, clean out the interior once a month. New nice cars are nice but I love have a cheap beater around.


Indeed, I still miss that beater Escort I crushed. It was a lot of fun, especially when you hand the key to a valet.
 
Originally Posted By: Jarlaxle


This trans is NOT the old Torqueflite...this is the new-for-1999 545RFE, with double overdrive and three planetary gearsets. The 6-speed automatics used in Rams even now are directly derived from this trans.

Big one: use ONLY ATF+4 in it!

I didn't know that - and now that you say it, isn't the 545RFE based off the 42TE/Ultradrive tranny that was the norm de rigeur for Mopar's FWD efforts? I hear that same buzz-tic from some Jeeps and Rams when they slow down. The one you'd hear from a Caravan or Intrepid when it slows down and downshifts.
 
Originally Posted By: dogememe
Nevermind found a Mopar. Will change and see what happens. Took truck to exhaust shop to make sure the ticking noise was not the engine, and it's apparently not, it's the exhaust gaskets.


Usually the rearward exhaust manifold bolts rust off, but seeing as you are in CA rusting may not be an issue?
 
Originally Posted By: Srt20
Originally Posted By: dogememe
Nevermind found a Mopar. Will change and see what happens. Took truck to exhaust shop to make sure the ticking noise was not the engine, and it's apparently not, it's the exhaust gaskets.


Usually the rearward exhaust manifold bolts rust off, but seeing as you are in CA rusting may not be an issue?


The exhaust shop told me that I would need to have both manifolds removed and machined for $750. I told them, thanks for your time, I'm not going to put that kind of money into the truck. Seems silly when new ones are like $70 each... Besides if it doesn't pass smog the engine is coming out anyway
 
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Originally Posted By: nthach
Originally Posted By: Jarlaxle


This trans is NOT the old Torqueflite...this is the new-for-1999 545RFE, with double overdrive and three planetary gearsets. The 6-speed automatics used in Rams even now are directly derived from this trans.

Big one: use ONLY ATF+4 in it!

I didn't know that - and now that you say it, isn't the 545RFE based off the 42TE/Ultradrive tranny that was the norm de rigeur for Mopar's FWD efforts? I hear that same buzz-tic from some Jeeps and Rams when they slow down. The one you'd hear from a Caravan or Intrepid when it slows down and downshifts.


I don't think so...that sound might be the TCC releasing.
 
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