My first oil change with an extractor.

Z

z71bill

Joined
Sep 26, 2021
Messages
482
Location
Houston Texas
Wife's 2024 Highlander 2.4L turbo -

I sucked 5 liters or 5.28 quarts out through the dip stick port.

The oil capacity per the owners manual is 5.6 quarts with filter and 5.3 quarts without the filter.

So 5.28/5.3 = 99.62% not counting filter or 5.28/5.6 = 94.3% with filter oil included.

Did first oil change (Toyota free) at 11 months and 4,110 miles -

This oil change at 9 months with 3,065 miles (7,175 total)

I will be getting my last free oil change from Toyota in ~ 3 months.

My take on the oil extractor -

First hooked up my small compressor - it worked but was slow. Hooked it up to my big compressor and it sucked faster.

Very easy process and the engine was cold. If I warmed it up it would have been faster.

Trying to decide what OCI I should use in the future.

I was just going to do 12 month or 5K miles oil & filter but doing one with the extractor (not replacing the filter) is so easy I am considering doing one oil only in between the oil and filter change.

Since Toyota recommends 10K OCI - oil + filter I have several choices.

Wife only drives ~~ 400 miles a month.

First choice is -
Next oil and filter change "starts the clock"
Then oil only at 6 months or 2,500 miles
Oil and filter at 12 months or 5,000 miles

Or maybe -
Next oil and filter change "starts the clock"
Then oil only at 6 months or 2,500 miles
Another oil only at 12 months or 5,000 miles
Oil and filter at 18 months or 7,500 miles.

Is it "wrong" to go 18 months between filter changes if it is less than 7,500 miles?

Since this is a turbo engine I decided I don't want to go 12 months between oil changes. My wife does a lot of short trips in stop and go traffic, almost all city driving.

The oil I just sucked out was not bad on the dip stick - but after draining it looked pretty dark.

I refilled with Super Tech advanced 20,000 mile 0W20. Less than $22 with tax - the oil on the dip stick after driving a couple days is so clean it is hard to read the oil level.

Any opinions appreciated...
 
Last edited:
Your plan should be fine. You’ll have folks argue the topside extractions “leave behind” dirty oil but since your starting with a new engine there won’t be much if any contaminates left behind. Use quality oil filters as I’m sure you will. Marine engines (inboard & outboard) most always get topside oil changes and never have issues if smart intervals are adhered to.
 
At a minimum you'll want to change it enough to at least maintain the warranty on the vehicle and doesn't sound like you drive enough for the miles but need to look at the time. That was basically my plan to change the oil in my Civic's but ended up effectively totalling the one back in the Spring and was going to extract the oil in between the filter changes. On Honda's at least back then they recommended filter changes every other time. I bought a cheap extractor from Amazon that worked well until I tried the truck, I didn't realize it at the time but GM on the 5.3 it has a tiny slot that the dipstick goes through into the pan which prevented the extractor from even reaching the pan. I ended up tossing it out and purchased a nicer unit but when that didn't work either I researched it and found some vehicles just won't work with them so you have to drain and fill. When I changed the car last time I couldn't get the filter off so I had to reuse it and might just start over again with a fresh oil change to get everything back on the same schedule.

Lately it seems that I only change the oil about every couple yrs and 3 is my limit but then I don't have AFM, DI or even a turbo.
 
AZjeff said:
Would you consider wife's driving pattern as severe service? What does the manual say?

You're going with cheaper oil on short OCIs rather than a better oil on a longer OCI? Can't argue with that but is it any better than a "better" oil and filter every 5000 miles?
Click to expand...

Lots of short trips, all city driving, Houston traffic and hot weather.

I would say not eligible for 10K OCI - that would, for me anyway, be mostly highway miles. She drives like a typical 60 year old woman - because she is a 60 year old woman

I don't consider Super Tech to be a "cheap" oil. It is a good oil that costs less. Every comparison of Supertech with other more costly oils - Supertech seems to about as good or sometimes even better.

I did a fair amount of research on ST years ago when I switch my Tahoe over from Mobil 1 - thinking is it worth it to be using high dollar oil in a 10 year old vehicle? I have been using it since and don't see any disadvantage.

Maybe if I was towing or something and going to extended the OCI - But I will never go over 5K miles so ST is my pick.

As I was grabbing the jug of ST I saw a display of Mobil 1 Advanced oil on special for $29.99.

Even if Mobil 1 is slightly better than ST it isn't 50% better.
 
Merek said:
At a minimum you'll want to change it enough to at least maintain the warranty on the vehicle and doesn't sound like you drive enough for the miles but need to look at the time. That was basically my plan to change the oil in my Civic's but ended up effectively totalling the one back in the Spring and was going to extract the oil in between the filter changes. On Honda's at least back then they recommended filter changes every other time. I bought a cheap extractor from Amazon that worked well until I tried the truck, I didn't realize it at the time but GM on the 5.3 it has a tiny slot that the dipstick goes through into the pan which prevented the extractor from even reaching the pan. I ended up tossing it out and purchased a nicer unit but when that didn't work either I researched it and found some vehicles just won't work with them so you have to drain and fill. When I changed the car last time I couldn't get the filter off so I had to reuse it and might just start over again with a fresh oil change to get everything back on the same schedule.

Lately it seems that I only change the oil about every couple yrs and 3 is my limit but then I don't have AFM, DI or even a turbo.
Click to expand...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR4MM?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_4

1767286629617.webp




This tool has removed filters that I could not get off with other oil filter wrenches.


I agree with keeping inside warranty.


Toyota included oil quantity with and without changing the filter. Makes me think they recognize an oil only change, but someplace it does say oil and filter every 10K of 12 months whichever comes first.

While under warranty I will do that for sure.


I have a 5.3L GM in my Tahoe - I have not tried to extract oil from it - didn't plan to because it is so easy to go under.
But that makes me want to try it just to see if it works.
 
wbwanzer said:
Sounds like a good plan. I have to get under my Santa Fe every other oil change for the filter so I remove the drain plug for that change and just extract for the next one and leave the filter.
Click to expand...
Our 2010 Santa Fe had the oil filter under the hood.

I really like that set up -

I wish more companies had this set up -
 
I have been using an extractor on small engines and would rarely do it another way. It it so much cleaner. If there is a "Drain Z it" type of device or a longer drain pipe allowing it to flow directly into my disposal container, with out risk of mess, I will do that. I always tip the engine so that the lowest point is at the tube pick up point. As best as can be done. You may want to do that with you vehicle. Using a jack or parking such that the lowest point in the crank case is where your pick up tube is. As suggested earlier, warm oil (does not need to be hot, hot) will be faster and a more complete drain. Another thing to consider, if you skip changing the filter every other oil change, is getting a magnetic drain plug. Happy new year.
 
z71bill said:
I need to figure out how hot is too hot.

I don't want to melt the extractor hose inside my engine!
Click to expand...
Under normal circumstances, I don't thing you can get motor oil hot enough to melt the hose on an oil extractor. I've never had an issue with my extractors.

But if you are concerned, let the car sit for 20-30 minutes after driving it, before starting to extract the oil. You get the double benefit of the oil cooling off some, but will still be warm enough to extract easily, and the oil can drip back into the pan so that you get more of it out.
 
PontiacHO said:
Your plan should be fine. You’ll have folks argue the topside extractions “leave behind” dirty oil but since your starting with a new engine there won’t be much if any contaminates left behind. Use quality oil filters as I’m sure you will. Marine engines (inboard & outboard) most always get topside oil changes and never have issues if smart intervals are adhered to.
Click to expand...

I have a 991 with 3.4 engine. Total capacity is 10.6 quarts, when you drain the oil from the pan about 8 quarts come out. this is by design. As long as you do regular oil changes you will be fine if some old oil left in the engine
 
z71bill said:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR4MM?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_4

View attachment 317758



This tool has removed filters that I could not get off with other oil filter wrenches.


I agree with keeping inside warranty.


Toyota included oil quantity with and without changing the filter. Makes me think they recognize an oil only change, but someplace it does say oil and filter every 10K of 12 months whichever comes first.

While under warranty I will do that for sure.


I have a 5.3L GM in my Tahoe - I have not tried to extract oil from it - didn't plan to because it is so easy to go under.
But that makes me want to try it just to see if it works.
Click to expand...
The oil filter on a D series is on the back of the block above the axle, it's accessible but is a bit awkward reaching it. I used a Boss which seems a bit larger than the ones I typically use and had trouble finding the correct size, I use the cup style. I've purchased 2x universal sets but the strap wrench is the one that I don't have. I keep it all recorded in Google Sheets so really just need to check the miles on the filter and go from there but should be able to put it off at least until Spring when it warms back up.

The truck is easy to change oil but the filter is really close to the oil pan so you can't get a good grip with your hand, also it's verticle so chances are it's going to run all down your arm. I took the aluminum skid plate off because the oil would pool there when draining
 
If you put a red solo cup over the filter, oil won’t run down your arm when you change the filter.
 
Nyati said:
If you put a red solo cup over the filter, oil won’t run down your arm when you change the filter.
Click to expand...

Filter on our Highlander is horizontal -

The worst oil filter location I ever had was a 1981 Pontiac Turbo Trans Am.

The turbo exhaust came to a Y - you had to reach between the top of the V section to reach the filter and the space was so tight if I had the filter in my hand it was too big to fit.

Those top notch GM engineers must not do any maintenance.
 
I guess it all depends on where your filter is.
For me drain plug is the best option on all 4 vehicles I maintaine.
 
On the Hyundai/Kia top engine oil filters you should use an OEM filter. In my humble experience the After market filters do not work well with the anti drain back system. I have used several premium filters and they do not. I doubt most INDY mechanics or Quick Oil change places know this or care. I may be wrong because I have not used every filter in the market. If someone knows of a filter that does work well with the anti drain back feature, please share.
 
I've been using the extraction method on my 2008 MB for all but maybe 2 or 3 changes in 17+ years. It works just fine. I tested by extracting and then pulling the plug. When you only get a drip, the extractor has taken as much as putting up on ramps and pulling the plug. So why bother with ramps and all that?
I threw out the last pump extractor years ago. I use a $25 electric oil extractor from Amazon. It is faster and I power it with a jump box.
For the thread How often do you recharge your jump box? the answer is when I change my oil.
 
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