My experience with autorx

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Dec 14, 2006
Messages
595
Location
NJ
Sorry I have no pictures or compression test results or any proof, but heres my experience with autorx:

My car is a 1994 toyota corolla DX, with the 1.8l 7AFE engine. I bought at 125k miles, from a woman who didnt neglect it. She got changes ranging from every 2500-3500 miles, at jiffy lube, lube-it-all, and various other chains. When I replaced the valve cover when I got the car, it looked very clean. But I decided autorx couldnt hurt so I tried it out. Plus I was burning a quart every 1k miles.

Ordered 3 bottles back sometime in october or november. As soon as they came in, I poured 8oz into my engine. I ran it hard for the next 1500 miles, wanted to really clean it out. Took no short trips during that time, all miles were highway with the engine warmed up and kept around 4000rpm.

I did notice during this time within 200 miles the oil was very dark, which never happened before. Oil used was... gtx or havoline, I forget which.

Drained out, put in quaker state synthetic for the rinse phase, ran 2000 miles.

Then I put a whole bottle (12oz) into my 4 quart sump. Ran it for 1500 miles, mostly highway once again, then poured out. Now im running quaker state torque power synthetic for the rinse phase.

My results:

Engine power has not improved, still feels the same.

Im still getting the same MPG I was before putting autorx in.

1,000 mile 1 quart consumption is still there.

Engine has gotten a little nosier, I notice a new harmonic at a certain engine rpm. And overall the engine sounds nosier from the outside. This could be from cleaning, I guess, but this is the only thing that has changed.

I havent looked under the valve cover, but im not expecting it to look any different anyways.

Overall i'd recommend if you give your car good OCIs and it runs strong, you probally dont need autorx. Still not sure what to do with the extra bottle of RX, and no I wont give it to you
tongue.gif


But then again this was only the result on my engine, it might vary, maybe it'll help a nissan or ford 1.8l with the same mileage and OCI. Just posting this so you can help form your own opinion.
 
Brogy go change your oil to any non synthetic like WalMart Super Tech and run it for say 3000 miles now drain it an post again. Synthetic Oil has an additive that holds oil to metal (a good thing unless you want to clean your engine, which I assume is why you bought Auto-Rx ? Please go to www.auto-rx.com and read the application, you have manged to hold all the crud Auto-Rx cleaned to the metal by using synthetic oil in the rinse mode. Harmonic vibrations ? sure
all will be well if you follow directions and no don't put anymore Auto-Rx in change oil and drive.
Happy Easter
 
Quote:


YOu weren't supposed to use syn for the rinse phase, but thanks for the story.




From what i've read group III is fine for the rinse phase.
 
Perhaps what was cleaned out of the motor had not yet progressed to the point of causing performance short comings.
This is not to say that they would not build and cause problems in the future. What performance gains folks really boast about is from stuck rings and diminished compression. Perhaps your piston rings were still freely operating. Let us know how clean or dirty the next OCI looks.
 
Im talking about the q advance full synthetic stuff they're selling at the BOGO sale at AAP. The dates on the bottle say they were made late 2006. My understanding was that this and pennzoil platinum were a group 3 oil.

For the last rinse phase I used Q torque power full synthetic, also thought to be a group 3.

Even so the oil got plenty dirty using the quaker state.
 
Quote:


Perhaps what was cleaned out of the motor had not yet progressed to the point of causing performance short comings.
This is not to say that they would not build and cause problems in the future. What performance gains folks really boast about is from stuck rings and diminished compression. Perhaps your piston rings were still freely operating. Let us know how clean or dirty the next OCI looks.




Aye, thats what I was thinking too, maybe it will take a few more OCIs for any results to reveal themself.
 
Quote:


Quaker State Synthetic is not Group111 it is a full synthetic.

Read th instructions on www.auto-rx.com



I need more info... The MSDS from SOPUS is not specific, but verbage indicates group III, not full syn.
INGREDIENTS CAS# CONCENTRATION
Synthetic Motor Oil
Synthetic hydrocarbon base oil Mixture 90 - 99 %weight
Proprietary additives Mixture 1 - 5 %weight
Zinc Dialkyldithiophosphate 68649-42-3 1 - 5 %weight
 
I think if it were a group 4 or 5, then everybody would be using it for $3 a quart.
 
Thank you triple se7en.

With that out of the way, my original point is not to debate whether or not autorx works, but just to say it didnt do much, if anything in my application.

I'll post back in 2 months if I notice otherwise.
 
If you couyldn't see that it was dirty..and your only "bad symptom" was burning a quart every 100 miles ( within factory spec) ...then perhaps the engine is all ready in good shape????
And BTW I don't think I would argue with the inventor of the product as to how to use it >>>>>
 
Quote:


Sorry I have no pictures or compression test results or any proof, but heres my experience with autorx:

My car is a 1994 toyota corolla DX, with the 1.8l 7AFE engine. I bought at 125k miles, from a woman who didnt neglect it. She got changes ranging from every 2500-3500 miles, at jiffy lube, lube-it-all, and various other chains. When I replaced the valve cover when I got the car, it looked very clean. But I decided autorx couldnt hurt so I tried it out. Plus I was burning a quart every 1k miles.

Ordered 3 bottles back sometime in october or november. As soon as they came in, I poured 8oz into my engine. I ran it hard for the next 1500 miles, wanted to really clean it out. Took no short trips during that time, all miles were highway with the engine warmed up and kept around 4000rpm.

I did notice during this time within 200 miles the oil was very dark, which never happened before. Oil used was... gtx or havoline, I forget which.

Drained out, put in quaker state synthetic for the rinse phase, ran 2000 miles.

Then I put a whole bottle (12oz) into my 4 quart sump. Ran it for 1500 miles, mostly highway once again, then poured out. Now im running quaker state torque power synthetic for the rinse phase.

My results:

Engine power has not improved, still feels the same.

Im still getting the same MPG I was before putting autorx in.

1,000 mile 1 quart consumption is still there.

Engine has gotten a little nosier, I notice a new harmonic at a certain engine rpm. And overall the engine sounds nosier from the outside. This could be from cleaning, I guess, but this is the only thing that has changed.

I havent looked under the valve cover, but im not expecting it to look any different anyways.

Overall i'd recommend if you give your car good OCIs and it runs strong, you probally dont need autorx. Still not sure what to do with the extra bottle of RX, and no I wont give it to you
tongue.gif


But then again this was only the result on my engine, it might vary, maybe it'll help a nissan or ford 1.8l with the same mileage and OCI. Just posting this so you can help form your own opinion.


Sounds to me like your expectations were met. I mean you say everything was fine more or less before you RX'd it.... save burning a little oil....no compression checks nor upper end inspections...I would rinse it with an oil like Valvoline conventional for couple of thousand miles just to see what impact that would have on your oil consumption. Then go back to your synthetic oil. But thanks for posting up...always good to hear everybody's experiences and methodologies and of course personal results.
cheers.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom