My E46 323i using non-synthetic: sludge fest 2010!

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Actually, I'm surprised at how calm many of you are, after looking at the pictures. I've heard a lot worse commentary from engines that didn't look nearly that bad.

At any rate, I hope the OP will continue to follow up on this thread or in other threads, on the progress. I'm very interested in this exact model of car... I want to own one someday soon. (Sans the sludge, of course.)

Here is my BMW, a 1975 model...



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Well, looks like the run has been cut short. Before changing the oil, I moved it on ramps to raise the car up and the oil pressure light was on. Then the inevitable ticking happened. I still replaced the oil and everything, and the ticking is louder. Time for a new engine I suppose. Any other nice advice?
 
Originally Posted By: oliverr871
Well, looks like the run has been cut short. Before changing the oil, I moved it on ramps to raise the car up and the oil pressure light was on. Then the inevitable ticking happened. I still replaced the oil and everything, and the ticking is louder. Time for a new engine I suppose. Any other nice advice?


I'd suggest getting it looked at and possibly rebuilt by a pro before it gets worse. That original picture looked really bad. I wonder what the previous owner did to that car. With that much sludge, it's probably too much to take care of with quick oil changes.
 
Originally Posted By: oliverr871
Please keep in mind, that I had bought the car potentially knowing it had sludge in it, and that I myself, know what oils are best for vehicles, so please keep the flaming to a minimum and just let me know some tips on how to remove most of it. Thanks!
 
Originally Posted By: oliverr871
Well, looks like the run has been cut short. Before changing the oil, I moved it on ramps to raise the car up and the oil pressure light was on. Then the inevitable ticking happened. I still replaced the oil and everything, and the ticking is louder. Time for a new engine I suppose. Any other nice advice?
What kind of ticking? A fast paced light ticking may just be a problem with one (or more, perhaps) of the hydraulic lifters and not "change engine" alert.
 
Well, I've seen "sludge" failures right after an oil change on Audi 1.8ts. It seems the only variable is the flow rate of the new filter, which makes sense if the old one had some restriction it would permit pressure to build, which is relieved by the new unit, dropping the pressure.
 
Hi,
AJ - Oil filters typically have a differential filtration media by-pass device. In some Euro engines this can be as high as 2.5 bar - and OP is maintained. Some lubrication systems also have by-pass devices that prevent oil coolers etc being damaged - these are usually in the 0.5 to 1.5 bar range. The idea of course is to keep flow to the main components

The accumulation of "material" in the FF OF is usually from the bottom up and I have only rarely seen a completely clogged filter - usually in diesel engines and mainly due to soot. I have seen OP screens clogged. And this can be a worry when trying to "de-sludge" an engine as the clogged screen can quickly be the cause of oil starvation. This is has usually been due to the incorrect lubricant being used, and rarely if ever changed - and oxidation

It is hard to de-sludge" an engine in any case without some dissassembly. Typically the sludge forms outside the oil flow/spray/splash zone and "solvents" have only a limited effect in this regards

A kerosine/lubricant mix used cautiously can be a help
 
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Originally Posted By: jpr
Originally Posted By: oliverr871
Well, looks like the run has been cut short. Before changing the oil, I moved it on ramps to raise the car up and the oil pressure light was on. Then the inevitable ticking happened. I still replaced the oil and everything, and the ticking is louder. Time for a new engine I suppose. Any other nice advice?
What kind of ticking? A fast paced light ticking may just be a problem with one (or more, perhaps) of the hydraulic lifters and not "change engine" alert.


It probably is the hydraulic lifters, because it's not "knocking" because I've heard rod knock when the engine is starved from oil (had that happen before to one of my previous cars). The tick sounds like from the top, but it is getting louder though. The Service Engine Soon light is on along with the oil pressure light. The SES probably has something to do with the VANOS being all whacked out, but I have to read the codes and see.

Since I have to wait and see what engines come along that I have to find, I'm going to open the bottom end and see if the oil pump nut is on there properly. I have heard cases of the oil pump nut falling off. But then I was thinking, if the oil was not pumping, then there would be no oil in the oil filter housing, right?
 
Originally Posted By: oliverr871
Originally Posted By: jpr
Originally Posted By: oliverr871
Well, looks like the run has been cut short. Before changing the oil, I moved it on ramps to raise the car up and the oil pressure light was on. Then the inevitable ticking happened. I still replaced the oil and everything, and the ticking is louder. Time for a new engine I suppose. Any other nice advice?
What kind of ticking? A fast paced light ticking may just be a problem with one (or more, perhaps) of the hydraulic lifters and not "change engine" alert.


It probably is the hydraulic lifters, because it's not "knocking" because I've heard rod knock when the engine is starved from oil (had that happen before to one of my previous cars). The tick sounds like from the top, but it is getting louder though. The Service Engine Soon light is on along with the oil pressure light. The SES probably has something to do with the VANOS being all whacked out, but I have to read the codes and see.

Since I have to wait and see what engines come along that I have to find, I'm going to open the bottom end and see if the oil pump nut is on there properly. I have heard cases of the oil pump nut falling off. But then I was thinking, if the oil was not pumping, then there would be no oil in the oil filter housing, right?
IIRC..The VANOS system requires constant oil pressure and the oil must free of air bubbles. Anything less and you will hear the loud ticking. Good luck.
 
When I open the oil filter housing, there are bubbles in it which I know means that there is air and that the pressure is off. Hopefully it is just the oil pump bolt!
 
Originally Posted By: oliverr871
When I open the oil filter housing, there are bubbles in it which I know means that there is air and that the pressure is off. Hopefully it is just the oil pump bolt!


Well many BMW's tick, so it may not be "The End". Give it some time. You may only need to drop the pan and clean off all the gunk inside as well. Is the MMO supposed to dissolve and not just loosen the sludge? I always though diesel/kerosene derived cleaners would do that.
 
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Hi,
BMWTurboDzl - You said this:
"IIRC..The VANOS system requires constant oil pressure and the oil must free of air bubbles. Air entraptment control for instance is one of Porsche's Test protocols. Anything less and you will hear the loud ticking. Good luck."

This is but one reason why using a Factory Approved lubricant is wise. This especially applies to todays complex engines designs. It is interesting to note that BMW (itself and their specalist development contractors) and at least two Oil Companies are constantly in the development zone in this area
 
Originally Posted By: Doug Hillary
Hi,
BMWTurboDzl - You said this:
"IIRC..The VANOS system requires constant oil pressure and the oil must free of air bubbles. Air entraptment control for instance is one of Porsche's Test protocols. Anything less and you will hear the loud ticking. Good luck."

This is but one reason why using a Factory Approved lubricant is wise. This especially applies to todays complex engines designs. It is interesting to note that BMW (itself and their specalist development contractors) and at least two Oil Companies are constantly in the development zone in this area


After reading that, I believe me logic is off. I think the VANOS and ticking hydraulic(sp?) lifters are seperate(sp?) issue. It's obvious that I'm not a wrench turner. :)
 
Hi,
Sorry - I meant to repeated this from a previous Post:

""IIRC..The VANOS system requires constant oil pressure and the oil must free of air bubbles. Anything less and you will hear the loud ticking. Good luck."


This is my paragraph;

Air entraptment control for instance is one of Porsche's Test protocols.
 
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To try and clean up that engine with additives in the oil is somewhat risky because the oil pickup screen may get mostly or completely blocked by debris that has been loosened back into circulation by the additional cleaning action. That sludge looks hard and crusty. I would have probably just kept changing oil if it was running well and quiet. You don't want to chunk off much of those hard, crusty deposits.
 
OP:

What oil mixture did you put in it? You were talking about adding MMO?

The reason I ask is that I had some ticking noises during cold starts when I first got my car. I changed the oil to Castrol Syntec 5W40 and the ticking was gone. I have stayed with BMW LL01 and LL98 approved oils ever since and the ticking noise never came back.
 
After some more thinking, I will just get a non-sludged low mileage engine. Thanks guys.
 
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