It boggles the mind.....that someone without knowledge would knowingly (or unknowingly!) ignore the OEM recommendation. I won't go any deeper than that here.
My E46 323i using non-synthetic: sludge fest 2010!
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Thanks guys. I will try the Amsoil stuff and the MMO. With continual draining, flushing and oil filter changes, itll bw good. yea, wrong oil was definitely used here.
What is good about hdeo compared with normal oils?
What is good about hdeo compared with normal oils?
Originally Posted By: oliverr871
Yea, I know its not going to be quick and it will take time. I do intend to keep the car for as long as I can though.
If you're going to keep the car, you should bite the bullet and get the engine professionally rebuilt. The previous owner obviously seriously neglected your car and there is no way to know if the engine was damaged internally unless you tear it down. If you try to remove this much sludge by doing oil changes, there is a risk you will damage the engine. If will cost you a lot less money to rebuild the engine now while it's still running well than it will cost if the motor breaks. If you're lucky, only a light rebuild will be required, because these engines are well-designed. Once the sludge is removed, you can take care of the vehicle going forward and have peace of mind that the engine is not being damaged due to the oil filter plugging with sludge as it breaks down. I've had my E36 since July 2002. I take good care of it. I've had very few problems and I get a lot of enjoyment from it. These are nice cars and worth taking care of.
Yea, I know its not going to be quick and it will take time. I do intend to keep the car for as long as I can though.
If you're going to keep the car, you should bite the bullet and get the engine professionally rebuilt. The previous owner obviously seriously neglected your car and there is no way to know if the engine was damaged internally unless you tear it down. If you try to remove this much sludge by doing oil changes, there is a risk you will damage the engine. If will cost you a lot less money to rebuild the engine now while it's still running well than it will cost if the motor breaks. If you're lucky, only a light rebuild will be required, because these engines are well-designed. Once the sludge is removed, you can take care of the vehicle going forward and have peace of mind that the engine is not being damaged due to the oil filter plugging with sludge as it breaks down. I've had my E36 since July 2002. I take good care of it. I've had very few problems and I get a lot of enjoyment from it. These are nice cars and worth taking care of.
The sludge is from running the oil too long . Not because it is non syn.
Originally Posted By: Steve S
The sludge is from running the oil too long . Not because it is non syn.
+1
But it is possible that he ran it according to BMW specification (10-15K miles), in which case, he wasn't running it too long. These intervals would have been fine if he used synthetic instead of mineral.
The sludge is from running the oil too long . Not because it is non syn.
+1
But it is possible that he ran it according to BMW specification (10-15K miles), in which case, he wasn't running it too long. These intervals would have been fine if he used synthetic instead of mineral.
Ok, the sludge is from running dino oil using the factory oil change intervals, which would be 10-15k. I intend to do oil flushes and not "rebuild" the wngine. I dont care if there is sludge, as long as the valvetrain is not affected and can still be lubed up, and all the parts are still within wear tolerance, then that is fine.
the car idles smooth and quiet, passes smog way below the limit, and has smooth power. im not looking for a spotless engine, just one that will last.
thanks for everybodys advice!
the car idles smooth and quiet, passes smog way below the limit, and has smooth power. im not looking for a spotless engine, just one that will last.
thanks for everybodys advice!
Originally Posted By: oliverr871
Ok, the sludge is from running dino oil using the factory oil change intervals, which would be 10-15k. I intend to do oil flushes and not "rebuild" the wngine. I dont care if there is sludge, as long as the valvetrain is not affected and can still be lubed up, and all the parts are still within wear tolerance, then that is fine.
the car idles smooth and quiet, passes smog way below the limit, and has smooth power. im not looking for a spotless engine, just one that will last.
thanks for everybodys advice!
Good decision - if it ain't broke don't fix it.
I also think it would be easy to do more harm than good by trying to scrape off the sludge.
You might want to check the crankcase venting system to ensure it is working.
Ok, the sludge is from running dino oil using the factory oil change intervals, which would be 10-15k. I intend to do oil flushes and not "rebuild" the wngine. I dont care if there is sludge, as long as the valvetrain is not affected and can still be lubed up, and all the parts are still within wear tolerance, then that is fine.
the car idles smooth and quiet, passes smog way below the limit, and has smooth power. im not looking for a spotless engine, just one that will last.
thanks for everybodys advice!
Good decision - if it ain't broke don't fix it.
I also think it would be easy to do more harm than good by trying to scrape off the sludge.
You might want to check the crankcase venting system to ensure it is working.
Thanks, the crankcase vent tube is clean.
Originally Posted By: oliverr871
Thanks, the crankcase vent tube is clean.
It was a good question by mva, as there can be problems with crankcase ventilation on these engines. Usually they cause high oil consumption, but blowby and/or crankcase ventilation problems can cause sludge build-up. I highly recommend if you are not going to rebuild the engine that you get the crankcase ventilation system checked and replace the PCV. If there is that much sludge in the engine, I would be very surprised if the PCV was not plugged. You should also do a compression test and a leakdown test if you have the equipment.
Thanks, the crankcase vent tube is clean.
It was a good question by mva, as there can be problems with crankcase ventilation on these engines. Usually they cause high oil consumption, but blowby and/or crankcase ventilation problems can cause sludge build-up. I highly recommend if you are not going to rebuild the engine that you get the crankcase ventilation system checked and replace the PCV. If there is that much sludge in the engine, I would be very surprised if the PCV was not plugged. You should also do a compression test and a leakdown test if you have the equipment.
Originally Posted By: bimmerdriver
Originally Posted By: oliverr871
Thanks, the crankcase vent tube is clean.
It was a good question by mva, as there can be problems with crankcase ventilation on these engines. Usually they cause high oil consumption, but blowby and/or crankcase ventilation problems can cause sludge build-up. I highly recommend if you are not going to rebuild the engine that you get the crankcase ventilation system checked and replace the PCV. If there is that much sludge in the engine, I would be very surprised if the PCV was not plugged. You should also do a compression test and a leakdown test if you have the equipment.
Thanks for your concern, but i'm not breaking something that's fine. Compression is high across all cylinders as that has already been tested. The ventilation tube is not clogged up so the oil separator valve (which is what we have) is fine.
Originally Posted By: oliverr871
Thanks, the crankcase vent tube is clean.
It was a good question by mva, as there can be problems with crankcase ventilation on these engines. Usually they cause high oil consumption, but blowby and/or crankcase ventilation problems can cause sludge build-up. I highly recommend if you are not going to rebuild the engine that you get the crankcase ventilation system checked and replace the PCV. If there is that much sludge in the engine, I would be very surprised if the PCV was not plugged. You should also do a compression test and a leakdown test if you have the equipment.
Thanks for your concern, but i'm not breaking something that's fine. Compression is high across all cylinders as that has already been tested. The ventilation tube is not clogged up so the oil separator valve (which is what we have) is fine.
I don't understand how the sludge gets into the oil filter. That means it has to go through the oil pickup screen and then through the pump before it gets caught in the filter?
15k on dino is just astonishingly stupid. I wonder if the shop borked him? It wouldn't be the first time.
btw- someone just posted 12q of BMW oil in the classifieds for not a bad price. Worth using after the engine cleans out a bit.
btw- someone just posted 12q of BMW oil in the classifieds for not a bad price. Worth using after the engine cleans out a bit.
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This thread reminds me of those BMW sludge threads where they pull the cover off the 80k or so engine,that had those 15k synth oci`s,and the sludge is so thick you can`t even see the camshaft. When I used M1 in my gf`s Olds 88,the oil would drain out looking like tar after 3000 miles. I just couldn`t imagine being too cheap to change the oil in shorter intervals on some uber-expensive car.
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I'm not convinced it was run on dino oil. ANYTHING is possible.
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
This thread reminds me of those BMW sludge threads where they pull the cover off the 80k or so engine,that had those 15k synth oci`s,and the sludge is so thick you can`t even see the camshaft. When I used M1 in my gf`s Olds 88,the oil would drain out looking like tar after 3000 miles. I just couldn`t imagine being too cheap to change the oil in shorter intervals on some uber-expensive car.
I do 10-12k oil change intervals on my 740, and there is no sludge, as you can see from my pictures. It has 130k...4k less than my 323i. Using the right synthetic oil (BMW LongLife approved oils) with the car and changing it at the intervals the car suggests definitely works.
Dino oil, or not, obvious lack of changing can definitely contribute to sludge.
I checked the filter yesterday, and there are sludge elements in between the pleats. It only has been less than 3k since the last oil change, so I will wait until it catches more then change it with a new filter and put some MMO.
Before I had done the oil change, assuming that the oil change interval meter is correct, it said 5k until oil service. The filter had heavy crudding, and it still ran great! haha
This thread reminds me of those BMW sludge threads where they pull the cover off the 80k or so engine,that had those 15k synth oci`s,and the sludge is so thick you can`t even see the camshaft. When I used M1 in my gf`s Olds 88,the oil would drain out looking like tar after 3000 miles. I just couldn`t imagine being too cheap to change the oil in shorter intervals on some uber-expensive car.
I do 10-12k oil change intervals on my 740, and there is no sludge, as you can see from my pictures. It has 130k...4k less than my 323i. Using the right synthetic oil (BMW LongLife approved oils) with the car and changing it at the intervals the car suggests definitely works.
Dino oil, or not, obvious lack of changing can definitely contribute to sludge.
I checked the filter yesterday, and there are sludge elements in between the pleats. It only has been less than 3k since the last oil change, so I will wait until it catches more then change it with a new filter and put some MMO.
Before I had done the oil change, assuming that the oil change interval meter is correct, it said 5k until oil service. The filter had heavy crudding, and it still ran great! haha
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Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
This thread reminds me of those BMW sludge threads where they pull the cover off the 80k or so engine,that had those 15k synth oci`s,and the sludge is so thick you can`t even see the camshaft.
Can you direct us to these threads?
What we are discussing here specifically is that all these threads are most likely a hoax, ie. it was either mineral oil that was changed at 15k miles, or it was some oil that was never changed at all.
Otherwise, if those threads are in fact true, then there must be hundreds of thousands of sludged up BMW engines out there, and there must be a class action suit against BMW out there, and BMW must have replaced hundreds of thousands of sludged up engines as part of the settlement. Automotive media would have had a field day with this type of info. Strangely, I've never come across it.
This thread reminds me of those BMW sludge threads where they pull the cover off the 80k or so engine,that had those 15k synth oci`s,and the sludge is so thick you can`t even see the camshaft.
Can you direct us to these threads?
What we are discussing here specifically is that all these threads are most likely a hoax, ie. it was either mineral oil that was changed at 15k miles, or it was some oil that was never changed at all.
Otherwise, if those threads are in fact true, then there must be hundreds of thousands of sludged up BMW engines out there, and there must be a class action suit against BMW out there, and BMW must have replaced hundreds of thousands of sludged up engines as part of the settlement. Automotive media would have had a field day with this type of info. Strangely, I've never come across it.
You won't. But what I can tell you, as a member of some 15 BMW forums worldwide, is that we constantly see on the U.S BMW forums the wrong oil being used. The U.S owners manual says 5W30 unlike other countries, and owners did not equate that with BMW 5W30 (Castrol TFT Softec) an ACEA A3,B3 LL01 oil. So they stick in any old 5W30 and you get the results as seen on this thread. It's a daily battle, and I seriously mean battle, for a few BITOGER's trying to educate users that M1 5W30 doesn't meet spec (ACEA A1 oil). I was banned on one U.S BMW forum after coming up against the forums pet poster (every forum has one) who didn't want to know about the correct oil and I was a 'college boy' and 'elitist' and had no place being there. My local BMW dealer at one point was also using the wrong spec oil so you can understand the results seen here.
People will breeze over the manual until they see something they understand, "5w-30" and then they are done. It's not that 5w-30 can't work, but an appropriate interval must be observed based on the quality of lube used.
Originally Posted By: sprintman
You won't. But what I can tell you, as a member of some 15 BMW forums worldwide, is that we constantly see on the U.S BMW forums the wrong oil being used. The U.S owners manual says 5W30 unlike other countries, and owners did not equate that with BMW 5W30 (Castrol TFT Softec) an ACEA A3,B3 LL01 oil. So they stick in any old 5W30 and you get the results as seen on this thread. It's a daily battle, and I seriously mean battle, for a few BITOGER's trying to educate users that M1 5W30 doesn't meet spec (ACEA A1 oil). I was banned on one U.S BMW forum after coming up against the forums pet poster (every forum has one) who didn't want to know about the correct oil and I was a 'college boy' and 'elitist' and had no place being there. My local BMW dealer at one point was also using the wrong spec oil so you can understand the results seen here.
The US BMW owner's circle web site at one point (or perhaps continues to) recommended M1 5w-30 as meeting the requirements for current BMW engines which had the LL-01 ACEA A3 specs. That Mobil oil did not meet those specs, so I will agree this problem is widespread in the USA.
You won't. But what I can tell you, as a member of some 15 BMW forums worldwide, is that we constantly see on the U.S BMW forums the wrong oil being used. The U.S owners manual says 5W30 unlike other countries, and owners did not equate that with BMW 5W30 (Castrol TFT Softec) an ACEA A3,B3 LL01 oil. So they stick in any old 5W30 and you get the results as seen on this thread. It's a daily battle, and I seriously mean battle, for a few BITOGER's trying to educate users that M1 5W30 doesn't meet spec (ACEA A1 oil). I was banned on one U.S BMW forum after coming up against the forums pet poster (every forum has one) who didn't want to know about the correct oil and I was a 'college boy' and 'elitist' and had no place being there. My local BMW dealer at one point was also using the wrong spec oil so you can understand the results seen here.
The US BMW owner's circle web site at one point (or perhaps continues to) recommended M1 5w-30 as meeting the requirements for current BMW engines which had the LL-01 ACEA A3 specs. That Mobil oil did not meet those specs, so I will agree this problem is widespread in the USA.
The nice thing about the e46 cars is that it is really easy and not messy to pull the cap off the oil filter housing and inspect the oil filter element at any time.
I recommend if you go forward with a slow clean longer interval, pull the cover off from time to time during the OCI and inspect the filter element for clogging.
I recommend if you go forward with a slow clean longer interval, pull the cover off from time to time during the OCI and inspect the filter element for clogging.
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