My 2010 Honda Accord 2.4 (w/186k mi) acts like the torque converter is failing. What do I do?

Joined
May 31, 2024
Messages
23
About a month ago my Accord starting acting very weird at low speeds (25-30mph) and lurching when the TC would normally lock up. It wasn't incredibly noticeable until I got on the highway and it wouldn't lock up at all. After looking up the symptoms, it seems like I've had a worn TC for awhile and I didn't realize it. It has had that weird "rumble strip" feeling at low speeds for awhile, but it was so faint that I thought it was just the road (I live in OH, don't eat me alive for being so oblivious lol).

After the highway incident, I decided to change the transmission fluid. I did two drain and fills with DW-1, per recommendation of several forums (including this one). I noticed an immediate improvement in shift quality, but the locking-up problem got even worse. The lurches got longer and more noticeable. Still nothing on the highway. I can only assume the metal grit in the old fluid was helping the worn-smooth TC function. So I put a tube of LubeGuard ShudderFixx down the tube and now it's... better-ish? It seems to lock up, albeit reluctantly. It has the occasional stumble, but only at low speeds like before.

I'm at an impass here. My immediate reaction is to sell it and get it out of my (theoretical) hair before it blows up. As I understand it, that LubeGuard stuff is good for 5k to 15k miles. However, I'm struggling to sell a car that might explode tomorrow with a good conscience. Does it sound stable enough to sell? Could it be another problem that I haven't even considered?
 
With interest rates being where they are and car values not coming quite the whole way back down to earth it isn't a great time to be buying something else.

Depending on where you are in the country, I'm sure a few of us know good Honda trans people. I have one here in GA that is near to Atlanta.
 
Is he rest of the car sound? Rust, upholstery, AC/heater? If it is I would have it rebuilt with the plan to get another 5 years out of it.
The rest of the car is in excellent shape. Everything works beautifully.
 
With interest rates being where they are and car values not coming quite the whole way back down to earth it isn't a great time to be buying something else.

Depending on where you are in the country, I'm sure a few of us know good Honda trans people. I have one here in GA that is near to Atlanta.
I agree that it's a terrible time to buy a new car, but I've already put over $2k into this car (on a college student budget) and I am really struggling to rationalize another 2 or $3k. It's not even paid off.
 
I admire your integrity. You can disclose the issue to potential customers. You could also use it as a trade in, making it the dealer's problem. You could also get a good rebuild and keep driving it. @The Critic turned me on to a great Honda trans rebuilder.

Good luck.
I've considered dumping it on a dealer, but the trade-in value is half of what I need to pay it off and I'm not interested in another car payment.
 
i think most honda transmissions have external solenoids. What about just unplugging the torque converter lock up solenoid. I dont know if the computer gets any feedback that the converter is locked up. Then you could drive it like normal and not worry about the converter clutch shredding itself over time.
 
Does it have to pass inspection where they check for emissions / CEL?

I'm wondering if you can unplug the control for the lockup. This can be dangerous, as the convertor will be slipping more, and running hotter. Driving with overdrive locked out may be required, so as to keep rev's up (less slippage).

What is the need here? Do you need this to last another 5 years? 5,000 miles? 2 years and 25,000 miles? Everything is a gamble, but the less miles this has to go, the more I'd be tempted to limp this along (plug in the TC control for inspection, unplug once passed).
 
i think most honda transmissions have external solenoids. What about just unplugging the torque converter lock up solenoid. I dont know if the computer gets any feedback that the converter is locked up. Then you could drive it like normal and not worry about the converter clutch shredding itself over time.
I'm not sure if they do, but that's not a bad idea. I guess no lock up is better than slipping and lurching.
 
Does it have to pass inspection where they check for emissions / CEL?

I'm wondering if you can unplug the control for the lockup. This can be dangerous, as the convertor will be slipping more, and running hotter. Driving with overdrive locked out may be required, so as to keep rev's up (less slippage).

What is the need here? Do you need this to last another 5 years? 5,000 miles? 2 years and 25,000 miles? Everything is a gamble, but the less miles this has to go, the more I'd be tempted to limp this along (plug in the TC control for inspection, unplug once passed).
No inspections, it's an OH car. I'd like to just dump it altogether. I would need another 1.5 years to pay the loan off and I'm not confident in it to go that long.
 
Back
Top