MT: press clutch all the way to the floor everytime?

[JHZR2]

Hi,

I am asking this because my new car (04 saab) seems to begetting a spot on the carpet where the back of the clutch pedal lever arm touches said carpeting. It is kind of annoying to me, as no other cars Ive had have incurred such a problem, maybe due to pedal/floorboard positioning, etc.

Anyway, I have to ask this, because now Im confused. I always pressed the clutch all the way to the floor when shifting. However, I want to keep the carpet from getting a spot there, so I am tempted to not push the clutch all the way down.

My girlfriend's acura goes into gear really poorly if you press the clutch to the floor. The smoothest shifts are obtained by only pushing the pedal 1-2cm from the top. My BMW shifts smoothly regardless of if I put the pedal to the floor or just past the clutch point. My saab shifts fine too, either way.

Is there more wear or potential damage to be had if I dont press the clutch to the floor all the way when driving? I can see that if the discs dont become completely separated by a slight air gap, that the friction could possibly wear the clutch faster. However, I don't know if this is an issue with hydraulic systems, since a little bit of the pedal travel makes a lot of force that can move the pedal quite a bit.

Am I better off just pressing it all the way to the floor, and sticking a little square of something on the spot to protect the carpet? The kicker is that it cant be too thick at all, as the clutch starter interlock requires the pedal to go to the floor in order to start the car.

Any comments or info would be appreciated.

Thanks,

JMH

 

[T-Keith]

Depends on the clutch. Most clutches are disengaged before the pedal hits the floor, some aren't. Can you really see that part of the carpet anyway?


-T

 

[JHZR2]

no, no, no... I didnt phrase it clear enough.

There is a clutch-ignition interlock, that requires the clutch to be pressed to the floor for the car to start.

The actual operational clutchpoint is right where it should be, very similar to on my BMW and on my brother's mitsubishi.

But, I could push the pedal to just past the clutchpoint (~1/2 way in the pedal travel I guess), and change gears all day long. Same in my BMW. I just have to wonder if it is worse for the clutch mechanisms to change gears this way, as opposed to pressing the pedal to the floor every time.

I would imagine that pressing the pedal to the floor every time ensures maximum spacing between the clutch components, so that there is no friction while the gears are changing.

But i dont know enough to be sure, thus my question.

Thanks,

JMH

 

[kenw]

sounds like your theory is pretty good, it makes a lot of sense.

you might be able to adjust the interlock switch on the pedal to avoid having to push it so far. Of course, you run the risk of what they are trying to avoid, that is, starting with clutch partially engaged. So adjust it a little at a time.

that or add a piece of carpet to the backside of the pedal to act as a cushion....

 

[JHZR2]

I think Ill be doing the carpet trick...

How would I know if Im starting the car with the clutch partially engaged? I mean, is there a point where the discs could be rubbing but where there is not enough friction to cause the car to move? An intimate proximity that causes a slight wear, but is unnoticable becase it doesnt make the car jump, or when rolling, doesnt make it more difficult to get into gear?

Thanks,

JMH

 

[labman]

I have always been a clutch pedal to the floor driver. No guess about how far is far enough even if it shifts fine higher. You clutch doesn't know where the pedal is. Is the disc free of the flywheel or not, is all it cares about.

I would try the padding. Make sure you have room to get the clutch in far enough. If you have to adjust the start lock out switch, do it even if it means adding a shim.

You would think for what they charge for a Saab now, the factory would have gotten it right.

 

[T-Keith]

Sounds like a good solution. Just as long as the padding is not thick enough to miss the interlock.

-T

 

[JHZR2]

quote:

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Originally posted by labman:

You would think for what they charge for a Saab now, the factory would have gotten it right.

---

LOL, the reason why I got the saab was because it was the only reasonably priced euro car... i got my 04 9-3 linear, MT brand new for just over 23k...

The kicker was the EPA highway mileage was 34... with a light foot, I can get 37+

JMH

 

[Gary Allan]

Let me get this straight.

Right off the show room floor your clutch required "full to the floor" application to allow you to get in gear from a stand still?. If you didn't push it all the way in ...no amount of time would permit you to not "grind" when putting it into reverse ..or encounter undue resistance when putting it in 1st?


Is this correct?

 

[olddognewtrks]

Regarding the clutch engagement point: If you're crazy enough to try it (like I need to ask a BITOG member about their sanity)

, I'd say jack up the drive end of the vehicle, put it in first gear (max leverage to make the wheels start turning) and eeeeease the clutch out while a friend watches for wheel movement.

 

[XS650]

quote:

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Originally posted by olddognewtrks:
Regarding the clutch engagement point: If you're crazy enough to try it (like I need to ask a BITOG member about their sanity)

, I'd say jack up the drive end of the vehicle, put it in first gear (max leverage to make the wheels start turning) and eeeeease the clutch out while a friend watches for wheel movement.

---

That's not all that crazy if done with some restraint. There is an easier way. On most manual transmissions, reverse is not syncronized.

If you can shift into reverse without any grinding or notchynes, then the clutch has released.

 

[Lumberg]

quote:

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Originally posted by JHZR2:
I think Ill be doing the carpet trick...

How would I know if Im starting the car with the clutch partially engaged?
JMH

---

I don't think that the split second of contact woudl matter.

Besides, dont' you start the car in neutral also anyway (even if there's no neutral interlock it's good practice).

I would turn the key to the start position, then push in the clutch until the car starts, instead fo teh other way around. Make sure the car is in neutral. Problem solved