Anybody have luck with Speedbleeder brand one way check valves for bleeding brakes?

[Newhart111]

I just installed Speedbleeder check valves on all 4 of my brakes. Installing was straightforward - just removed old one and install Speedbleeder with a little brake fluid dribbling out during the swap.

To bleed it, what I did was (after attaching a bottle with a rubber hose, and it being closed all the way) was turn between quarter and half turn and push the pedal a bunch of time 5-8 times making sure I had plenty of fluid above the ‘low’ line, checking the lines for bubbles (which I had none to begin with), then close the valve.

First I tried doing it with the car turned off, but what happened was while the pedal got increasingly stiffer as I pumped initially and stayed firm throughout doing all 4 wheels, after I turned the car on to check, the pedal almost goes to the floor and feels spongy. Consecutive quick pumps makes the pedal harder but then just goes back to dropping and feeling soft.

I tried then again this time with the car on. It was slightly improved but the pedal still goes too low and it feels soft. The brakes work and is responsive but definitely feels wrong.

Did I miss something?

Also after I put the first one in, it felt way too loose so I wrapped it with 2 turns of Teflon tape for a snug fit.

 

[bdcardinal]

I think I end up getting the Russell ones and they work great. I did have one with a wonky fit on the right rear caliper of the Silverado. That one was from Omnicraft so I don't know if it was the fitting or the caliper at issue.

 

[Newhart111]

I think I end up getting the Russell ones and they work great. I did have one with a wonky fit on the right rear caliper of the Silverado. That one was from Omnicraft so I don't know if it was the fitting or the caliper at issue.

Did you bleed it with the car on or off?

Do you have ABS?

 

[Newhart111]

To be fair I had the same issue with gravity bleeding also. Soft pedal that went too low.

 

[benjamming]

What vehicle are you doing this on?

 

[Newhart111]

What vehicle are you doing this on?

It’s a 2016 Lexus ES350

 

[bobdoo]

Air can get into the wheel cylinder thru the threads, when you loosen the bleeder. I put some thick grease over the thread/cylinder junction, after loosening the bleeders. That keeps air from being sucked back in.

 

[Newhart111]

Air can get into the wheel cylinder thru the threads, when you loosen the bleeder. I put some thick grease over the thread/cylinder junction, after loosening the bleeders. That keeps air from being sucked back in.

That was the reason why I put the plumbing teflon tape. Shouldn’t that stop the air from getting in? Thats the whole reason behind using the Speedbleeder check valves - so air doesn’t get in.

Maybe I try the grease next time too.

 

[shortyb]

Air can get into the wheel cylinder thru the threads, when you loosen the bleeder. I put some thick grease over the thread/cylinder junction, after loosening the bleeders. That keeps air from being sucked back in.

This. And why I ditched them long ago.

 

[Newhart111]

Maybe this is my problem:

Help diagnosing soft brakes?

I drove a 2012 Mazda5 (2.5L MZR engine) today. It has a lot of plusses (one owner, 83k miles, good service history, close to home) but one big minus: the brake petal was very soft. It would stop fine but you had to push the pedal a lot farther than anything I’ve ever driven. It felt like how it...

bobistheoilguy.com

Air in the ABS system. But I never changed my master cylinder.

 

[Newhart111]

This. And why I ditched them long ago.

Ditched Speedbleeders?

 

[DemoFly]

There's no need for a check valve when bleeding brakes. Those check valve bleeders are fake. The spring is not strong enough to work as a one way valve by itself. It's not the correct application for a ball check. They initially hydraulically seal the ball on the seat when the caliper retracts, but they bleed air in shortly after.

You want as much flow as you can get. Submerge a rubber hose in brake fluid in a bottle. Air bubbles float to the top, when the brake caliper retracts it sucks back only fresh fluid thats in the hose. The best brake bleed you can possibly achieve is achieved like this:

 

[shortyb]

Ditched Speedbleeders?

Yes, as in tried them, got air in the system that was a B to get out, and never used them again. Conventional bleeder screws and a Motive. I'm good.

 

[vavavroom]

I have been using Speed Bleeders for many years without any issues on a number of cars. I'm talking about the actual brand Speed Bleeders rather than similar products by other manufacturers. I get the stainless steel versions.

Stahlbus makes nice looking speed bleeders. A bit pricey. If anybody here has tried them, please let us know how you like them.

 

[Lubener]

Air can get into the wheel cylinder thru the threads, when you loosen the bleeder. I put some thick grease over the thread/cylinder junction, after loosening the bleeders. That keeps air from being sucked back in.

I never had that problem. Air will only be sucked back in when the pedal is allowed to return to its natural settting after pumping the pedal.. The pedal must be held down until the bleeder screw is tightened.

 

[Newhart111]

There's no need for a check valve when bleeding brakes. Those check valve bleeders are fake. The spring is not strong enough to work as a one way valve by itself. It's not the correct application for a ball check. They initially hydraulically seal the ball on the seat when the caliper retracts, but they bleed air in shortly after.

You want as much flow as you can get. Submerge a rubber hose in brake fluid in a bottle. Air bubbles float to the top, when the brake caliper retracts it sucks back only fresh fluid thats in the hose. The best brake bleed you can possibly achieve is achieved like this:

I didn’t have luck with this method either. It was the first one I tried. But I think where I messed up with this one is that the bleeder screws were really loose when I cracked it open and maybe air leaked in through the threads. I might have done better if I put some teflon tape on the bleeder valve before I bled the brakes.

 

[shortyb]

I never had that problem. Air will only be sucked back in when the pedal is allowed to return to its natural settting after pumping the pedal.. The pedal must be held down until the bleeder screw is tightened.

The problem with the one-way check valve bleeder screws/bolts is they are designed to be left open when bleeding fluid. The check valve ball is supposed to prevent air/fluid from flowing back into the caliper while you pump the brakes, pushing old fluid out, release the brake pedal, and push again. Otherwise, why use them? While THAT part of the equation may work, the problem I had with both genuine Speedbleeders and Russell copies was air would get past the bleeder screw THREADS while open and allow it back into the system. Threads on the screws had a thick paste on them, presumably to seal the threaded area against air re-entry. Never worked for me, so out they went and conventional bleeder screws went back in. Did conventional 2 person bleeds without issue until I started using a Motive Pressure unit. Super easy and not having to yell to my helper to push the brake pedal, hold, crack bleeders, and retighten. Then rinse and repeat. Sometimes if I got a spongy pedal, I would find some willing sucker, uh, helper, and do a regular old school bleed. Firm pedal every time. Sometimes use VCDS on my VWs to activate ABS for a bleed, but not really necessary unless system is breached for some reason, ie; replaced component.

 

[Donald]

Having SS bleeder screws is a positive.

 

[Newhart111]

The problem with the one-way check valve bleeder screws/bolts is they are designed to be left open when bleeding fluid. The check valve ball is supposed to prevent air/fluid from flowing back into the caliper while you pump the brakes, pushing old fluid out, release the brake pedal, and push again. Otherwise, why use them? While THAT part of the equation may work, the problem I had with both genuine Speedbleeders and Russell copies was air would get past the bleeder screw THREADS while open and allow it back into the system. Threads on the screws had a thick paste on them, presumably to seal the threaded area against air re-entry. Never worked for me, so out they went and conventional bleeder screws went back in. Did conventional 2 person bleeds without issue until I started using a Motive Pressure unit. Super easy and not having to yell to my helper to push the brake pedal, hold, crack bleeders, and retighten. Then rinse and repeat. Sometimes if I got a spongy pedal, I would find some willing sucker, uh, helper, and do a regular old school bleed. Firm pedal every time. Sometimes use VCDS on my VWs to activate ABS for a bleed, but not really necessary unless system is breached for some reason, ie; replaced component.

I noticed when I first screwed in my Speedbleeder was that there was some play even though it was used for the first time with the grey stuff on there. I know I got the right one because I asked them.

I put Teflon tape, but the way I see it, it gets crushed when you tighten it and when you open it, it may have a path for air to get in.

 

[Newhart111]

Having SS bleeder screws is a positive.

I got the stainless steel ones.