Motorcraft FL-2114-B12 Cut Open

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I have for your amusement a Motorcraft FL-2114-B12 oil filter dissection. This is off of my 2024 Ford Ranger with the 2.3L Ecoboost engine. Filter was only in service for approximately 1800 ish miles using Mobil Super Full Synthetic 5W-30. Was replaced with a standard CarQuest R85348 oil filter and Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W-30 oil.

This filter was briefly a supply chain shortage alternate replacement to the FL-910S back in 2021. Has all the markings of a Champ E-Core design with nylon center cage and nitrile ABDV but using a dome end leaf spring combo bypass valve setup. Fiber end caps were still well bonded with no tears of the media.

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Looks great, love the E-Core design since they fixed the spacing, and while metal end caps give everyone the thought that it is superior even FRAM came out and said it really doesn't matter what the end cap is made out of.

I run the PF47E on my 4.3

Less risk of metal shavings/contamination, less risk of glue coming off especially on the Champ filters that the average DIYer might miss, as you can see with M&H they have a glue issue with their metal end caps.
 
looks okay, good move going to a premium guard. felt end caps regardless of manufacturer are a no go from me.
Seen a good while back someone ran a E-Core with felt end caps to I believe it was 16,000 miles, 6,000 over what it is rated for and it still looked great.

I will have to try and dig to find that post. While we can all have a preference there is nothing wrong with felt end caps.
 
That filter looks as bad as the Honda OEM filters. Honda also uses the even cheaper STP filters for the free oil changes that come with the purchase of a new car. Seems dealers just don't care anymore it's all about greed and profit. The average consumer is clueless.
 
That filter looks as bad as the Honda OEM filters. Honda also uses the even cheaper STP filters for the free oil changes that come with the purchase of a new car. Seems dealers just don't care anymore it's all about greed and profit. The average consumer is clueless.
You should find a different dealer rather than lumping them all together. Some of ones here in this area seem very concerned with customer satisfaction. Perhaps the Ford dealerships you have worked for are different, I do not know.
 
You should find a different dealer rather than lumping them all together. Some of ones here in this area seem very concerned with customer satisfaction. Perhaps a Ford dealerships you have worked for our different, I do not know.

So you think the Honda OEM filter that every dealer in America uses is a good filter ? It's just like the motor craft filter posted that is the same as the cheap fram orange can. Junk.
 
So you think the Honda OEM filter that every dealer in America uses is a good filter ? It's just like the motor craft filter posted that is the same as the cheap fram orange can. Junk.
Proof the FRAM PH and TG are "Junk" ??

I don't particularly like them but they are not junk.
 
ALL the major brands have shown to occasionally have some poor quality. This isn't unique to any one brand; they all have examples of failures we've seen here before.

As for the filter in this thread, it looks fine. Reported to have no tears and good end-cap adhesion. The reality is this filter did its job and didn't have any significant failure. I don't understand why folks complain.
 
Well, I got a case of the FL-2114's to go through but the felt end caps never bothered me.
Those end caps look thicker than what Fram uses, and seemed to do the job without any deformation. One advantage fiber end caps provide is they seal well with the leaf spring and ADBV.
 
Has all the markings of a Champ E-Core design with nylon center cage and nitrile ABDV but using a dome end leaf spring combo bypass valve setup.
That's not really a "combo bypass valve" ... it's just a regular spring loaded bypass valve integrated into the leaf spring. The term combo valve refers to the design where the bypass and ADBV are integrated into one rubber piece in the base end of the filter.
 
Looks fine at 1800 mi. This ecore has separate poppet bypass with polyester end caps. Still my preference is for the 910S with silicone adbv. In my observation 'most' post use c&p of them have looked ok. That said, the price of them has doubled. Curious, how is the filter access for diy? Can you use ramps or are jack stands needed? Or, sits high enough neither needed?

Thanks for c&p.
 
Seen a good while back someone ran a E-Core with felt end caps to I believe it was 16,000 miles, 6,000 over what it is rated for and it still looked great.

I will have to try and dig to find that post. While we can all have a preference there is nothing wrong with felt end caps.
that is exactly why my post says “no go from me”
 
That's not really a "combo bypass valve" ... it's just a regular spring loaded bypass valve integrated into the leaf spring. The term combo valve refers to the design where the bypass and ADBV are integrated into one rubber piece in the base end of the filter.
Yeah, I am familiar with the combo ADBV/BYPASS from the original E-Core when launched back in 2004. Meant combination of the leaf spring and bypass valve. Could have been worded better and noticed it not until it edit locked the post.
 
Still my preference is for the 910S with silicone adbv. In my observation 'most' post use c&p of them have looked ok. That said, the price of them has doubled.
My preference would still be the FL-910S also, but them going from $4 to now $8+ filter, that value proposition changed for me. With now two vehicles in my household using the same filter, picking up a case pack of these FL-2114 filters for under $3 a piece and having a Motorcraft part to get me through warranty was a better value to me.

I have used E-Core derived oil filters on and off since they came out in 2004. I have never had a issue with them to include the early first year or so when had the inner cage gap issues with the media.

Curious, how is the filter access for diy? Can you use ramps or are jack stands needed? Or, sits high enough neither needed?

Filter access is a mixed bag. First change I went through the front drivers side wheel well with the wheel turned in and peeled back the fender liner. Used a cap style socket wrench to get loosened and then removed with final spin off and pull out by hand. It does have a plastic drain trough to capture the bit of oil from the filter when removed. On 19-23 5G Rangers, the fender liner flap was a lot more easy to remove for access. I did this on the ground and while doable, it would be better access if up on jack stands with the wheel removed.

Second filter change which is this filter, I did on a somewhat cold engine and snaked my oil filter cap socket up through the inside of the frame rail and was able to loosen and remove. I used Rhino Ramps for this method. This was probably be my preferred method going forward.
 
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