Did you drill and tap the oil pan?
Motor Guard filters
- Thread starter mtoil
- Start date
Dont know what I did. For sure I didnt mess with the aluminum oil pan. I probably used another self tapping hollow bolt and put it close to the fill cap. The oil was being sucked into the crankcase ventilation system. What if my wife had been by herself or a customer was driving. The filters aren't idiot proof. That was in my Frantz days. Motor Guard had discontinued the oil filters by then.
True I havent used 4 1/2 inch paper in awhile.. just the shorter Great Value 1000 from Walmart and Scott 1000. I thought the oil pressure would crush the core but it doesnt. Im starting to like the shorter paper.
True Im starting to like the shorter Great Value 1000 and Scott 1000. Havent used 4 1/2 inch paper in awhile. I thought the oil pressure might crush the core. Not with the 1000 sheet.
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I just found a 4 1/2 inch roll of single ply. Might be Camco RV paper from Walmart. Put it in a Motor Guard M 30 with no cores. It made a spiral wrinkle from top to bottom. Might be because there are no cores the pressure is even from top to bottom. Didnt break the tp core. A Gulf Coast toilet paper element core was already crushed. Dont know how that happened Its 4 1/2 inches. Might have tried it in a Motor Guard with the cores. The Gulf Coast junior doesn't compress the paper.
I just tried a 4 1/2 inch roll It didnt crush the core. Might have been a roll of Camco from the RV section at Walmart. One problem with the cores is they transfer the stress to the middle of the tp core. The tp core had a small spiral wrinkle from top to bottom. Digging around and found a 40 year old instruction sheet for Frantz replacement elements. In those days thats the only really good elements you could find. The core didnt compress. The core was about 1/8 inch thick. No 1000 sheet in those days.
I had the core spiral when I tried the Camco with 1 5/8ths core, I think the best way to get away from it doing that is to remove an 1/8th inch from the core height.
Out of curiousity, what does the Frantz replacement elements state for change intervals.
Normal operation...Change element first at 1000 miles successive element changes at 3000 miles. Very dirty engines.. Change at 500 miles and every 2 to 3000 miles thereafter. Cold weather operation... Change the element frequently for best results every 2000 miles or once a month. Equipment .stationary engines convert hours to miles to determine when to change element. One hour equals 30 miles
It was common in the 60s for the toilet paper to reach its capacity in less than 50 miles. I told my uncle we will need to change the Frantz every 50 miles or open the engine and clean it. He had also removed the thermostat He said they werent needed in california. He decided to trade the 59 Ford in on a new Dodge pickup. When I was putting the Frantz on the Dodge his brother drove up. He said I would have given my Frantz. My oil is dirty and my lifters are noisy. I asked him if he changed the Frantz. He said change it. The guy I bought it from said it would last a lifetime.
The Motor Guard factory elements have a leak proof plastic core. If you use one for hot motor oil you will be digging the core out in pieces. The white ones are like high quality toilet paper. I used them at work for instrumentation. Some of the orifices were about the size of a human hair.
Back when we used the Frantz 2 port sandwich adapters we drilled out the Frantz filter orifice. I think its better to use a orifice at the inlet with the sandwich adapter. My Perma Cool 189 sandwich adapter sends more oil to the filter than it can get rid of. I am putting the orifice back in today.
I think my Frantz with no restrictor could have used one on the inlet with the sandwich adapter, one cold morning at -38c -38F the oil had nowhere to go, it pushed the can up enough to lose 1/2 litre of oil, I think an orifice on the inlet may have helped, now I have heated covers for both the Frantz and Motor Guard filters, I plug the heaters in when it gets below -20c.
I have often wondered how people did with the Motor Guards I sent to Norway and northern Canada. They seemed to know about toilet paper filters. Sold a few of the old style Motor Guards when I was living in northern Idaho. Didnt know about sandwich adapters then. Seems like I remember Frantz at one time calling the heaters the Alaska package. Never saw one.started hearing about Motor Guards. There was a dealer in Coeur d Alene Idaho. I was there from 1972 to 1979.
I believe if you ordered a Frantz with the 2port sandwich adapter or the transmission fluid adapter it came without a orifice. I remember it was a hassle drilling out the orifice when Frantz put the orifice at the outlet under the screens. Had trouble with the pressure instead of pushing down on the VIVA Signature cloth paper towels it was coming up from the bottom and compressing the paper. An inch or so from the bottom there was a gap between the core and the towels. I went back to the 1000 sheet and put the orifice back in. Too much oil going thru the filter and hitting the 2 1/2 inch OD washer. Should be OK now. With the flat head Ford V8 canister the washer is at the top. I think I will put a restrictor at the inlet on it. The bigger the towels and the smaller the orifice the better the cleaning.
That filter is a Jackmaster Classic I put a 2 1/2 inch washer in. The wagon wheel is also restrictive. Nothing restrictive at the top. Drilled out the orifice. Its at the inlet now. Didnt like the spring and washer. Love the Jackmaster Classic.
I am always on the look out for one of those Alaska packages, I wonder if they were like the old battery blankets we have used for years, that's my guess anyway.
