My brother just acquired some motor guard filters that have a cannister just like the motor guard bypass oil filters. They were used to filter incoming air to large air compressors. My question is, will the paper cartridge that is in the casing work for motor oil? The cartridge is made of brown paper and appears to be more tightly wrapped than toilet paper. Since a bypass filter is supplemental to the main oil flow, I think it would be okay.....any thoughts?
motor guard air filter
- Thread starter tugalo
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The Motor Guard M-723 is an excellent element for motor oil. The core can't take hot motor oil and must be removed. I reach in and collapse the core and twist it out. Then I reach in with a long pair of shears and cut the core loose. It is best to filter from the top down as the filter is labeled in case when you cut it any loose paper will end up on the top of the element instead of in the engine. If you are using a Perma-Cool sandwich adapter it doesn't matter because all the oil from the Motor Guard must go thru the full flow filter to get to the engine.
The Motor Guard is the best of the small filters. I signed up as a dealer when all they made was the all aluminum M-100. It took Motor Guard about 10 years to understand that most people think that oil is suposed to get dirty and be changed. To survive they beefed up the M-100 and put a epoxy coating on it and marketed it as an air filter. In the process they ended up with removable internal parts that can't handle lube oil and fuel. The internal parts must be replaced with parts that can handle hot motor oil and fuel.
I just changed the Motor Guard on the fuel of the Toyota Camry after a year. I used the stock M-723. The end was black and had barely penetrated the paper. The core was cracked and distorted. I removed the core and installed coper internal parts to fit the now 1 5/8" ID paper. I screwed a nipple filter into the outlet in case anything large gets past the paper when I change it. The nipple filter is rated at 90 microns. On the Subaru Legacy I have the stock filter down stream of the Motor Guard. Unless I get a bad tank of fuel the Motor Guard should go 100 thousand or more without needing changing. TP and the Motor Guard element are very effective at one tenth of one micron. For maximum engine life the soot content should never get above 1%. Even at one tenth micron you can't get all the soot. Normally the Motor Guard and Frantz filters can get enough of the soot that adding new oil at filter change will keep the soot diluted to under 1%. AT 320 hrs the soot content is under .1 on the Cummins 8.3. It has the big converted Cummins Fleetguard LF750. I have it orificed down to 1/16". It is able to remove more soot than any filter its size or smaller because of its size and low flow rate. A darkish tint tells me that it isn't removing all of the soot. The Motor Guard element fooled me. I expected the black to be half way thru instead of less than 1/4". The Camry has no algae problems like some marine engines. For serious problems you need a prefilter to get the slimy algae and the Motor Guard to deal with the submicronic abrasives that can wear the injection system.
I don't see any advantage in using a Motor Guard element in a Frantz. The Motor Guard element is a special paper for dealing with water. It is similar to coffe filter paper and is very tough. It won't clean oil better than TP. It is so tough that when you remove the core the hole starts closing up. It is easier to deal with after it is removed from the housing after being compressed.
Ralph
The Motor Guard is the best of the small filters. I signed up as a dealer when all they made was the all aluminum M-100. It took Motor Guard about 10 years to understand that most people think that oil is suposed to get dirty and be changed. To survive they beefed up the M-100 and put a epoxy coating on it and marketed it as an air filter. In the process they ended up with removable internal parts that can't handle lube oil and fuel. The internal parts must be replaced with parts that can handle hot motor oil and fuel.
I just changed the Motor Guard on the fuel of the Toyota Camry after a year. I used the stock M-723. The end was black and had barely penetrated the paper. The core was cracked and distorted. I removed the core and installed coper internal parts to fit the now 1 5/8" ID paper. I screwed a nipple filter into the outlet in case anything large gets past the paper when I change it. The nipple filter is rated at 90 microns. On the Subaru Legacy I have the stock filter down stream of the Motor Guard. Unless I get a bad tank of fuel the Motor Guard should go 100 thousand or more without needing changing. TP and the Motor Guard element are very effective at one tenth of one micron. For maximum engine life the soot content should never get above 1%. Even at one tenth micron you can't get all the soot. Normally the Motor Guard and Frantz filters can get enough of the soot that adding new oil at filter change will keep the soot diluted to under 1%. AT 320 hrs the soot content is under .1 on the Cummins 8.3. It has the big converted Cummins Fleetguard LF750. I have it orificed down to 1/16". It is able to remove more soot than any filter its size or smaller because of its size and low flow rate. A darkish tint tells me that it isn't removing all of the soot. The Motor Guard element fooled me. I expected the black to be half way thru instead of less than 1/4". The Camry has no algae problems like some marine engines. For serious problems you need a prefilter to get the slimy algae and the Motor Guard to deal with the submicronic abrasives that can wear the injection system.
I don't see any advantage in using a Motor Guard element in a Frantz. The Motor Guard element is a special paper for dealing with water. It is similar to coffe filter paper and is very tough. It won't clean oil better than TP. It is so tough that when you remove the core the hole starts closing up. It is easier to deal with after it is removed from the housing after being compressed.
Ralph
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