Cracked my motor guard housing

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I had a leak in my motor guard bypass and decide to remove some of my many fittings. I was tightening a barb fitting on it when I felt it crack. I got out a flash light and sure enough it is cracked when the fitting goes into the housing.

I removed it but what do you think I should do about it? I’m thinking about buying a new motor guard and taking the parts of my old one, the center tube and restrictor and making a new bypass oil filter.

I don’t trust the crack one. I’m thinking of using it on my air compressor to filter out moisture from the air line. I’m not sure if it will hold pressure but I don’t trust it filtering motor oil.
 
Tough break. I'd have a hard time trusting it too. Keep in mind that your air compressor is going to put out much higher pressure than your engine will.

I might be tempted to fix it up and use the cracked (but repaired/patched) fitting as the outlet. Put the restrictor on the inlet side (reverse the flow if need be)...but I dunno.

For about $60 delivered you can get a new one.
 
Originally Posted By: handyman
I never used JB weld. Do I have to sand first then applied it?

No you don't. Go to Wal Mart or any auto parts store and get some JB Weld (don't get the JB Kwik version).

JB Weld is good stuff.

Still, not sure I'd trust if it decided to give way and oil was pouring out of your MG. I'd get a new housing.
 
Many years ago I worked in a machine shop ..they used Jand B weld for craked blocks...I think it will hold a craked motorguaed housing ...
 
Epoxy it and then put a C clamp around it. That way if something does happen the clamp will prevent the fitting from falling apart.
 
I have cracked a couple trying to get another 1/4 turn to get an elbo pointed where I wanted it. I was lucky and was able to take a hack saw and cut off the boss. Then I tapped it out. If the cracks aren't too deep you can get away with it. I have had some problems with the aluminum not having as smooth a threads as the brass. Most thread dope will wash out. Teflon tape needs some lubricant or it will wad up. The best thing I have found is some aircraft Permatex. A boiler maker gave me some good stuff but it is similar to the Permatex. With the right thread dope you don't need to tighten the fittings so tight. You can get away with a lot more with the brass fittings. With the smoother brass threads are easier to deal with.
Handyman email me your address and I will send you a fix for that crack.
 
Thanks for all the solutions.

Ralph, Thanks for the offer.
I was able to buy a used motor guard filter off ebay. It should be here next week. I plan on using it’s base for my oil filter.

The crack base I will used on my air compressor. If it leaks then no big deal – I will then try to JB weld it. I just don’t trust the crack one on my car motor.
 
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