MOS2 Additive

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Originally Posted By: harry j
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: harry j
The idle was runing at 600 RPM before and now it's at 750. I didn't do anything else except using the Amsoil AZO OW-30 oil that now has Moly.
I just added 1 oz (30 ml) Molyslip to the oil. I will run it for a while to see if i can detect any difference and then add another ounce.
I used a seasoning injecter to inject the Molyslip, it has a 30 ml capacity, quick and clean.




Was it you who posted the UOA that showed a possible coolant leak? If so I'd check for vacuum leaks too, they can cause issues with idle speed as well.



Yes, there is a small coolant leak. I can't be 100% sure, but the vacuum hoses are all in mint condition and I don't think there is a leak. Thankyou for your suggestion.


Its worth looking into
smile.gif
BTW I think moly is a great product. I use Lubro-moly, and I also coat bullets with powdered moly. It cuts down on copper fouling and keeps barrels a bit cooler. Good stuff!
 
Originally Posted By: harry j
sounds messy demarpaint, how do you apply it to your bullets?


I clean bullets with an ultrasonic cleaner, and dry them. Add bullets + BB's into a plastic peanut butter jar, and a teaspoon or less of powdered moly. I tape the lid onto the jar with duct tape and put the jar onto a rock tumbler. An hour or two does it. You can do a lot of bullets at once, just leave room for them to tumble.

I handle them with latex gloves, and polish them with a towel. I lay a bunch on the towel and buff them, at that point they shed very little moly. Once you get the hang of it, its easy and not messy.
 
Sounds like you reload, I havn't done that in years.

I am interested in your impressions of the Lubromoly in your engine, can you provide some details?
 
I always thought engine parts should be riding on a hydrodynamic wedge of oil while idling and under no load. I also thought moly was there in case the wedge failed and caused metal on metal contact. Maybe I have been thinking wrong for years???
 
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Originally Posted By: harry j
Sounds like you reload, I havn't done that in years.

I am interested in your impressions of the Lubromoly in your engine, can you provide some details?




IIRC its been three seasons of using it in my 6 hp Briggs mower. It would puff a bit of oil when I started it up, it didn't do it all the time but I would say about 7 out of 10 times. That has been eliminated since I started adding LM to that engine. I believe it plates to engine internals, and if there are small scratches and scuffs it might fill them and help reduce oil use. I also believe that after an initial one bottle treatment you can use 1 ounce per qt of oil thereafter. JMO

I could swear it takes a bit longer for my E-150 to warm up with it added to the oil, but I'd have one [censored] of a time proving it.
 
Originally Posted By: Cosmos
I have started using Moly in all of my gas powered applications. I noticed an immediate reduction in lifter noise. After the initial OCI, I only add about half of the initial dose. IMHO, it does what it says in reducing friction.

Amazon has good pricing at the following link:

http://www.amazon.com/Lubro-Moly-MoS2-An...7862&sr=1-1


Hi Cosmos:
Amazon pricing ok but shipping is a killer. I just picked up 3 cans at NAPA for $5.99 each.
Joe
 
Originally Posted By: Joe72Mart
Originally Posted By: Cosmos
I have started using Moly in all of my gas powered applications. I noticed an immediate reduction in lifter noise. After the initial OCI, I only add about half of the initial dose. IMHO, it does what it says in reducing friction.

Amazon has good pricing at the following link:

http://www.amazon.com/Lubro-Moly-MoS2-An...7862&sr=1-1


Hi Cosmos:
Amazon pricing ok but shipping is a killer. I just picked up 3 cans at NAPA for $5.99 each.
Joe


My local Napa went up to $7.49/can from $4.29; so price is increasing.
 
Oh well, it was good while it lasted (the ludicrous
Under $8 is fine, but if it keeps increasing in price an alternative is molyslip or mr moly; search the intwerwebs. May be pricier and maybe not of same quality--still worked for me though a number of yrs ago with a good UOA wear results; has lots of moly; not much boron if any though. Or try the bulk powder, if from a fine enough mesh.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Generally, these kind of feedback systems employee hysteresis to dampen the system oscillations. If the idle speed specification is 700 +/-100 rpm, the computer would not try to keep it at exactly 700 rpm. Only when the threshold, in this case 100 rpm is exceeded, computer would make the correction.

I am not saying that this is what is happening but I am saying this is possible and having worked with these kind of systems in the past, more probable.

Talking about Moly, at least LubroMolly can is a pain. It is very sticky and makes a mess of anything it touches, including the funnel.

- Vikas


+1 It is like pouring ink. Do NOT get any on clothes or other engine part!

But, it does a great job in addition to moly even in oil. It "coats" metal, and perhaps "plugs it up" a bit, but the result is indeed good and as i said whether you use 1/2 can, 1 can, or two cans (tempting but thats an initial dose MAYBE, change the filter in a few k if you do that) then its all good.

All you do is pour very carefully, and i always do so on a fully warmed engine, where you get almost burned from touching oil cap and then pour it on. Moly bakes' on. Help it. Add when engine is HOT!
 
The idle may indeed be higher until the computer relearns things.
But this should happen rather quickly. An increase CAN be noted initially, though.
 
I just added a second ounce (30ml) of MOLYSLIP. The only difference I could detect after the first ounce is that the brief
squeal at startup is now gone. MPG for the last tank averaged in at 35.4. I will go 10 fillups to determine if there is any MPG benefits from the MOLYSLIP.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
The idle may indeed be higher until the computer relearns things.
But this should happen rather quickly. An increase CAN be noted initially, though.


Thinking about it some, it could be that the static idle (IAC disconnected) was out of limits and when the IAC was put back in service, the computer couldn't control the idle as it was
supposed to. The idle is still at 750 RPM and I couldn't be happier.
 
Originally Posted By: harry j
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
The idle may indeed be higher until the computer relearns things.
But this should happen rather quickly. An increase CAN be noted initially, though.


Thinking about it some, it could be that the static idle (IAC disconnected) was out of limits and when the IAC was put back in service, the computer couldn't control the idle as it was
supposed to. The idle is still at 750 RPM and I couldn't be happier.


That's probably the case. Proper curb idle at least on the cars I own is/was set with the IAC disconnected. If it was set wrong it could cause some difficulties for the computer with regards to idle speed.
 
You can't just disconnect the IAT sensor to set the TB plate.
Either rev it to 2,000 RPM, hold it there, and unplug the IAT [this should retract it to it's maximum], or use a special dealer tool to control it .
 
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