Monroe quickstrut lifespan

[supton]

Wondering if mine might be done--put 60k onto them. My first clue is fast tire wear, my RT43's are done after 27k. I had the car aligned 60k ago, shortly after getting the struts. Tire don't have feathering but they just didn't last this time. Second clue is a front end shake that comes and goes. Sometimes it shows up at 70, or 75, or 80. Sometimes it's never there. Last few times it was getting to the point of being violent--and the last time I tapped the brakes and I thought bad things were going to happen. Like wheel falling off or losing control. But 65 and down, all seems fine.

[I've parked the car for the meantime.]

Trying to figure out if I want to toss a new set at it, get new tires and get a new alignment, all in that order. I can't seem to find my receipt for the struts so I don't think I can return them.

 

[tomcat27]

Which car? How are the tie rod ends? Ball joints, bearings?
Are they leaking? Is there bounce?

 

[mclasser]

Check your LCA bushings. Bad ones can cause vibration when braking, mimicking warped rotors.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

60k seems about right for the lifespan, but it could also be something else. Bad struts or any of the components would be felt at any speed, even low speeds. The parts tomcat mentioned are worth looking at, and maybe the CV joints could be another possibility. When I had bad CV axles, the vibration would start at the speeds you mention or maybe a little less, but still highway speed.

Did you order them online? If so, you may have a receipt in your inbox. If you got them at Autozone, you don't even need your receipt, just your phone number

 

[supton]

1999 Camry. Rest of the car has 202k on it.

LCA's, didn't think of that. Nor CV. Not sure I really want to dig into 'em, spring seems to be here and the ground is getting mushy. Sounds like I need to find someplace to jack it up and crawl around underneath. Will do that next.

I recall ordering online, but I just have the checkout confirmation--not something that looks like a receipt. Pep Boys. Perhaps I can somehow order a set and then RMA 'em.

 

[geeman789]

The typical failure sequence for struts is this : Shaft seal begins to leak. As oil volume starts to drop, damping becomes LESS effective, the oil in the strut heats up faster, and so on. However, the strut may function for years with a very small leak ... but getting worse over time. Eventually, the strut loses all ability to dampen. At this point, the wheel will bounce over any little bump or ripple. Car will become very soft and floaty. ( But in my experience, very comfortable, in a big boat kind of way !)

Your SPRINGS absorb the bump ... the STRUT dampens the initial force going through the spring (compression damping), and absorbs the energy stored in the spring as it rebounds after being compressed (rebound damping). If the strut is blown, then the spring will bounce back and forth until the energy is dissipated.


If possible, have someone else drive your car on a freeway (higher speeds make it easier to see ) , with you in a different car, and watch the wheels when they hit expansion joints/small bumps etc. A good strut will allow the wheel to go up/down once. A worn strut will allow the wheel to go up/down 1 time with maybe a second smaller bounce. A blown strut will do nothing, and the wheel will bounce up and down violently for a few seconds or more. It is this last scenario that quickly wears tires funny and wears front end parts.


The front end shake you describe is almost certainly not a direct symptom of a worn strut, but from something else having play. As a previous poster mentioned, look at all the front end movement points. Tie-rod ends, ball joints, suspension arm bushings, steering rack bushings or even a very sloppy front wheel bearing.

Good Luck.

 

[Audios]

Most likely done. We had to warranty both in the front after 40k on my receptionists civic, and then the right front one again about 20k later. "lifetime warranty" but no labor reimbursement.

 

[The Critic]

Something is loose upfront- you need to check. Tie rod ends would be my first suspect, followed by worn control arm bushings.

While 60K is a lot for Monroe's, it may not be your problem.

 

[ls1mike]

60K is good for quick struts The ones I put on my old Buick Regal GS had to be done right around 45,000 miles of use.
But like everyone else has said at that miles it might be time to start looking at the rest of suspension.

 

[Dave9]

Yes 60K is (depending on the road hills/curves/potholes/etc, and your driving style) plenty to wear out struts.

On the other hand, how much of the original suspension besides struts has been replaced yet? By the second set of struts, it is usually the case that other suspension parts are due for replacement unless sloppy handling /issues are tolerable to keep costs low.

Then again excessive tire wear is not keeping costs low but if they are wearing evenly, I would sooner place blame on the tires and driving style rather than suspension. Suspension problems practically always causes some sort of uneven wear rather than just faster wear.

Here's the important question: If you're getting shake and "thought bad things were going to happen" starting at 70MPH, why would you be going faster still at 80MPH?

If you want to drive an aging vehicle at those speeds, it costs money to do safely. Some people will change suspension a piece at a time but then later wish they'd just done everything at once, especially if they DIY the work and shop around for good prices so they have everything at once and can do it in a weekend.

The order to do it is thus:

1) Replace all suspension parts that don't need an alignment afterwards. This step can be done with some time passing between it and the next two which should be done pretty much all at once.

2) Replace those suspension parts that do change alignment, which at a minimum includes the struts, springs (if you replace them) and possibly one or more control arms, especially on the front wheels.

3) Try to DIY adjust the alignment well enough that it's safe to drive immediately to the tire store to get tires and an alignment done. Tell them you have replaced the suspension components so they are aware of it. They might try to make you pay more for the alignment, but if you are buying tires there too you have some negotiation leverage and can argue against it... there are other tire stores!

 

[LeakySeals]

That random vibration on the highway. Does it feel like you're going over rumble strips?

 

[maxdustington]

Originally Posted by Dave9
Yes 60K is (depending on the road hills/curves/potholes/etc, and your driving style) plenty to wear out struts.

On the other hand, how much of the original suspension besides struts has been replaced yet? By the second set of struts, it is usually the case that other suspension parts are due for replacement unless sloppy handling /issues are tolerable to keep costs low.

Then again excessive tire wear is not keeping costs low but if they are wearing evenly, I would sooner place blame on the tires and driving style rather than suspension. Suspension problems practically always causes some sort of uneven wear rather than just faster wear.

Here's the important question: If you're getting shake and "thought bad things were going to happen" starting at 70MPH, why would you be going faster still at 80MPH?

If you want to drive an aging vehicle at those speeds, it costs money to do safely. Some people will change suspension a piece at a time but then later wish they'd just done everything at once, especially if they DIY the work and shop around for good prices so they have everything at once and can do it in a weekend.

The order to do it is thus:

1) Replace all suspension parts that don't need an alignment afterwards. This step can be done with some time passing between it and the next two which should be done pretty much all at once.

2) Replace those suspension parts that do change alignment, which at a minimum includes the struts, springs (if you replace them) and possibly one or more control arms, especially on the front wheels.

3) Try to DIY adjust the alignment well enough that it's safe to drive immediately to the tire store to get tires and an alignment done. Tell them you have replaced the suspension components so they are aware of it. They might try to make you pay more for the alignment, but if you are buying tires there too you have some negotiation leverage and can argue against it... there are other tire stores!
"Let's just replace an old car's entire suspension at someone else's dime instead of bothering to try to diagnose!"

 

[supton]

Originally Posted by Dave9
Here's the important question: If you're getting shake and "thought bad things were going to happen" starting at 70MPH, why would you be going faster still at 80MPH?

It developed pretty quickly, over a month or so. I've had tires lose balance before, and usually that just means I can't drive at 60 or 65. Having it show up at 70 didn't trigger bells, having it wander around though left me head scratching. Tire looses balance, just don't drive at that speed.
Over the course of about a week it got bad fast it seemed. Mind you, it wasn't every day that it had the shake, so it was easy to chalk up to both tires out of balance, and being "in phase" when the shake was present. The "wow this has gotten bad" had me parking it in short order.

I know the PO had the swaybar end links replaced but I'm guessing it's mostly original.

 

[supton]

Originally Posted by LeakySeals
That random vibration on the highway. Does it feel like you're going over rumble strips?

Only when I hit the brakes. Once it did that I was done, knew that was beyond just a tire out of balance. Otherwise it was just typical tire balance feeling, shake in the wheel.

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted by supton
Originally Posted by LeakySeals
That random vibration on the highway. Does it feel like you're going over rumble strips?

Only when I hit the brakes. Once it did that I was done, knew that was beyond just a tire out of balance. Otherwise it was just typical tire balance feeling, shake in the wheel.


When is the last time you replaced pads and rotors? Vibration when braking is the symptom of bad glaze on the rotors. But you're also getting some just cruising along at a certain speed. I would opt for the road force balance it solved my problems on one vehicle. Then go after the brakes. Do you have the ability to measure run out? Both on the rotor and the hub itself.

 

[supton]

Originally Posted by LeakySeals
Originally Posted by supton
Originally Posted by LeakySeals
That random vibration on the highway. Does it feel like you're going over rumble strips?

Only when I hit the brakes. Once it did that I was done, knew that was beyond just a tire out of balance. Otherwise it was just typical tire balance feeling, shake in the wheel.


When is the last time you replaced pads and rotors? Vibration when braking is the symptom of bad glaze on the rotors. But you're also getting some just cruising along at a certain speed. I would opt for the road force balance it solved my problems on one vehicle. Then go after the brakes. Do you have the ability to measure run out? Both on the rotor and the hub itself.

Not that long ago. End of Nov, and so they only have about 6k on them. Raybestos hardware. Ironically it fixed the slightly warped rotor it had for the prior two years (if not warped then pad deposit). Seemed fine at the time.

No, don't have ability to measure runout. I could probably scrounge around and rig something up, but I don't the typical parts for it.

Tires are gone, hit wear bars and thus I'm tire shopping. No sense in balancing that which is worn. Although I should have some slightly less worn tires I could toss on and see if the problem changes, could be a good weekend experiment.

 

[Nick1994]

It's possible with some aftermarket parts that they might not last as long.

But I'd check the front end over again. Including wheel bearings. They're pressed in and tough to change. My mechanic has a 12 ton press with a 20 ton hydraulic jack in it and could barely pop mine out. Also control arm bushings.

 

[zzyzzx]

I had some Monroe blue struts on my Escort, and the ones on the back went at 115K miles. The ones on the front have 140K miles on them and still work. I might change out the fronts anyway, because of the strut mounts are still the original at 23 years and 255K miles.

 

[supton]

Sun is out, so able to do some work. Can't jack up under the a arm I think. Something might be a hair loose on passenger side (grab wheel, yank, slightest click on this side, none on the other), and after a test drive I think the caliper is dragging on that side to boot. But it looks like just a bad tire--found it right away--so I dug into my stash and found a mostly round spare, and not problems on the highway. Not sure what went wrong but one area of the tire wore badly, so a flat spot; but it almost looks like something else went wrong too. Out of round, high spot in tread, etc. Tire pressure was a couple pounds low but nothing that I'd call that low. 27k on RT43's, usually do rotations every 5k but I skipped the last one so this has about 7 or 8k on a front corner.

Time to enjoy the weather, then to tear into that caliper before it snows again.

 

[supton]

Another pic. Left of pic is outside of tire; guessing I corner too hard thus some amount of bevel is to be expected. But the inside wear...