Modern Automatics, Low RPM, and Engine Longevity

During my career I was assigned a new work truck (Ford, GM, Ram) every 4 -5 years. The last three trucks I drove had 6 or 8 speed transmissions which would keep the revs low under most conditions. I would put 200,000 kms on them before they were passed on to be used as crew trucks. They would be auctioned off at around 400,000 kms.
These trucks spent most of their running hours at low rpm or even idling, because they were used off road on construction sites and driven in rural areas with gravel roads, so low speeds compared to highway driving.
The engines almost never had issues, running well at auction time while the rest of truck was worn out.
 
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I got a ride in an Uber ride in a newer Honda Civic automatic and I could not believe the low rpms.... the tach never went over 2000, even under moderate acceleration. Cruising at 40-50 kph was usually achieved at about 1100 rpm! Being an old school car guy I was shocked, and can't imagine all the wizardry that has to go into making that possible.

In my manual 2006 Saturn Ion, my lowest cruising rpm is 1500 in 3rd which nets me 40 kph. Any slower than that and I'll shift into 2nd and cruise at 2500 where the motor seems very happy. With the s/c the motor is extremely flexible, but even then I will never push it below 3000. I usually shift at 3500-4000 which for me strikes the balance between performance and economy.
 
The purpose of add more speeds to reduce RPMs is due to mostly fuel economy..

The Engineers objective is to push higher horsepower engine using low tension rings, lower viscosity oils, increase gears in AT - all to just score on the MPG. I don't think they are striving for longevity.
 
I got a ride in an Uber ride in a newer Honda Civic automatic and I could not believe the low rpms.... the tach never went over 2000, even under moderate acceleration. Cruising at 40-50 kph was usually achieved at about 1100 rpm! Being an old school car guy I was shocked, and can't imagine all the wizardry that has to go into making that possible.

In my manual 2006 Saturn Ion, my lowest cruising rpm is 1500 in 3rd which nets me 40 kph. Any slower than that and I'll shift into 2nd and cruise at 2500 where the motor seems very happy. With the s/c the motor is extremely flexible, but even then I will never push it below 3000. I usually shift at 3500-4000 which for me strikes the balance between performance and economy.

That’s one of the reasons why I’m able to average 4.7L per 100km in my Civic in the warmer weather (and around 5.3 in the colder weather) If I’m not on the highway doing 100 kmh, I’m on roads where I can do a steady 60-80 kmh for long distances and at those lower speeds it gets under 4.0L per 100km because the engine is under 1500 rpm the entire time. I was never able to get this kind of fuel economy when I had my 06 Civic with the 5 speed automatic, it was always putting the engine at a higher rpm. The CVT in the Civic is the best thing for maximum fuel economy.
 
I got a ride in an Uber ride in a newer Honda Civic automatic and I could not believe the low rpms.... the tach never went over 2000, even under moderate acceleration. Cruising at 40-50 kph was usually achieved at about 1100 rpm! Being an old school car guy I was shocked, and can't imagine all the wizardry that has to go into making that possible.

In my manual 2006 Saturn Ion, my lowest cruising rpm is 1500 in 3rd which nets me 40 kph. Any slower than that and I'll shift into 2nd and cruise at 2500 where the motor seems very happy. With the s/c the motor is extremely flexible, but even then I will never push it below 3000. I usually shift at 3500-4000 which for me strikes the balance between performance and economy.
a turbo 1.5 would keep the rpm down in that range. Let the scroll do the work. A lot of small turbo engines achieve 80-90% of max torque in the 1500-2000rpm range.
 
Honestly, this is my first time hearing about the timing chain being an issue on the 2.7eb! I do know the earlier, first gen 3.5 had issues with timing chain stretch. And obviously the cam phasers on the second gen 3.5eb and the 5.4 triton. Although these were more so due to design defects more than anything.

Interesting to hear that your Tacoma revs lower. Is it a 4.0 V6? In my experience with driving a 19 4runner with that same engine, it tends to rev higher under load but it keeps the torque converter unlocked until later, meaning lower revs when cruising around town. It's a very comfortable shifting experience in my opinion, but some people dislike it.
Me too. The 2.7 has been the forgotten workhorse engine that gets overlooked by the 3.5 and 5.0 engines.
 
Back in the mid'80s, I had a 1983 Ford Thunderbird Turbo Coupe, 5-speed. Spent summer job money one year during college on an intercooler and manual wastegate boost control. That car would absolutely rip with premium gas and having adjusted the initial timing to an additional 10° of advance. Brought my first kid home from the hospital when he was born well over a decade and 230,000 miles later. Specific output was much higher, however RPM was still limited by the factory red line as I did nothing to the valve train. I suspect vehicles back then had more margin for performance improvements versus modern cars which are, in my opinion, engineered much closer to what they are capable of from the start.
 
Without test data it is probably all guessing. I think running at low rpm in an automatic is not really a problem because if it needs more torque that the RPM cannot handle it will upshift. Remember we only use about 30-40hp to cruise a Taurus on highway at 60mph, and it came with a 140hp engine back then or more likely 200+hp engine today in similar size. Back then we may need to run at 2000rpm, because engine weren't as efficient in lower rpm (without variable valve timing), and also not having that many gear ratios. You wasted fuel due to plumbing loss, and if you lower the rpm you can reduce that, or you have to run more EGR for the higher rpm to compensate and limit that waste, etc.

A lot has changed and I would not mind cruising at 1100-1500rpm all day if it came from the factory stock this way.
 
This is a great topic. One thing over here in Mercedes land that is a known quantity is the 7 and 9 speed transmissions have shift "adaptations."

If you were to drive my wife's car, (she drives exclusively in "Comfort" mode, I'm not sure she knows how to put it into the other modes :ROFLMAO: ) it would mirror the behavior of the OP's transmission, shifting as early as possible and keeping you in the highest possible gear for as low a speed as it could manage (generally about 1000 rpm).

Now if you were to get in MY car, where I often drive in Sport+ or in full manual select mode, you would immediately notice that (even in comfort mode) it holds shifts longer and keeps the car much closer to 2000 rpm before a shift.
 
My Club Sport has a close ratio transmission to keep the M42 motor within its power band. 5th gear is 1:1 so the motor is spinning at 4000 rpm at 80. In contrast, the 9 speed automatic in the C43 keeps rpm below 2000 at the same speed.
 
This is all very interesting as I just bought a new Mazda CX-5 with the NA 2.5l. I live in the country and the main road has a 55 mph speed limit but it is full of curves and hills. I noticed that when slowing for a curve with a hill following the car wants to stay locked in 6th gear doing 1300 rpm. I really dont feel comfortable there and will usually press down on the accelerator just to get it to down shift. My little Fiesta manual will knock like crazy if I try going up a hill under 2000 rpm and even the Dodge truck with the 5.7l will unlock and drop a gear. I have never heard the Mazda knock but I am on the edge of my seat listening for it, I cant believe it is happy pulling a 5% grade at 40 mph in 6th gear.
 
With more and more automatic transmissions, especially 8 and 10 speeds, on the market nowadays, I have noticed many of them tend to be agressive with upshifting and keeping revs low. One good example is my 23 F150 Tremor 3.5 ecoboost. It has the 10R80 transmission with 3.73 rear end. With 33" tires, under coasting conditions, it'll be in 10th gear as low as 45mph. Or 6th gear at 20 mph. Almost at 1000 rpm! The engine does not struggle, and if i lightly accelerate itll happily hold the high gear and get up to speed. Sometime's it will add boost, even under low revs. And if I stab the throttle a bit more, it will eventually downshift. It's not knocking and I only feel very slight vibrations, however my traditional "sense" tells me this can't be good for the engine, trans, or driveline! It feels and sounds a lot happier gently accelerating and cruising at 2k rpm than 1200 rpm!

From my understanding, many automatics these days have this sort of shift strategy for emissions and fuel economy reasons. Along with more agressive torque converter lockup. However, I want to discuss some of the negative effects this can have long-term. To be clear, I am not discussing traditional "lugging" in the sense of high load at low rpm, but generally low rpms throughout low load and moderate load conditions. And I've implied this but i want to focus on gasoline engines specifically.

The question I want to discuss is.. given the fact modern cars are running at lower revs, and traditional wisdom tells us more rpm = more wear, but are the lower rpms really helping reduce LONG TERM wear? Or are they better off, under light driving conditions, running at slightly higher RPMs, say in the example of my F150, 2.5k rpm vs 1.2k rpm? Want to discuss some points that I feel why lower rpms may mean MORE wear and tear, and I'm curious to hear what others have to say about this topic.

Boundary lubrication condition
We know from the Stribeck curve, lower speeds mean boundary lubrication conditions are more prevalent. Meaning you are relying on the properties of the oil coating itself to protect metal surfaces, rather than an oil film being formed between two surfaces. There is MORE friction and wear under boundary conditions, especially under load (note the higher torque output at lower RPM required to maintain the same HP output), and you are relying on additives such as ZDDP to protect your engine. Even if we assume additives can signifciantly reduce wear under boundary conditions, from my understanding additives such as ZDDP are heat activated, so this may mean even more wear after a cold start! Which is worrisome when you consider the majority of engine wear happens before operating temperatures are achieved.

Higher torque outputs
Given the same power demand/HP, running at lower revs obviously means more torque per rev.. meaning you are having higher cylinder pressures and putting more strain on bottom end components. But at higher revs, you get marginally higher wear on valvetrain components. However, at moderate RPM ranges such as 2-3k rpm I'm sure this effect is more linear rather than exponential. To me, it seems like this is a good tradeoff, to prevent unnecessary strain on cylinder walls, piston skirts and rings, crankshaft, bearings, rods, etc. Plus, I'd rather have to do a timing job than have to rebuild or swap an engine. And I know im not “lugging” the engine in the traditional sense of High Load/Low RPM, but you're still asking for a high torque per rev output with potentially less oil film support. I'm sure that's not nothing over 150k, 200k, or 300k+ miles etc.

LSPI
While modern engines are generally good at careful timing maps, precise fuel injection, or downshifting to better operating conditions, to avoid LSPI generally, but at the end of the day, these rely on knock sensors. As such, there has to be minimal knock even on a well tuned engine, at these low rpm conditions. The driver may not notice, but its there, and I'm sure over long term this cannot be good.

Carbon buildup
There is incomplete combustion at lower RPMs, and with more and more engines going to direct injection, with no fuel washing the top of intake valves, this is a valid concern. I'm glad my truck has port fuel injection along with direct injection- DI is used in conjunction with PI, mostly under higher loads, and PI is used alone under low loads.

So, what does everyone think about this? I tend to drive my truck in sport mode because of these concerns. It's a little more jumpy on the throttle, but it holds the revs just a little higher in what I believe to be the "sweet spot"- under low load normal driving conditions - 1800 - 2500 rpm. Unlike the 1200-1500 rpm normal mode prefers under low load. The engine feels more responsive, and overall sounds and feels a lot happier. However, I do wonder if this is putting unncessary wear, contrary to my beliefs. After all, everything turns twice as much at 2500 rpm vs 1250 rpm. I'm happy to hear what everyone thinks about this.
You’re pursuing all the boogeymen rather than facts. The engine programming is going to avoid nearly 100% of the fearmongering points you repeated. Nothing against you personally, but I wouldn’t waste one moment worrying about 99% of what you posted.

Buy a good oil. Change it at a reasonable interval. Never look back or worry. You’ll wreck it or sell it from boredom long before an oil issue rears its head under this protocol.
 
This is all very interesting as I just bought a new Mazda CX-5 with the NA 2.5l. I live in the country and the main road has a 55 mph speed limit but it is full of curves and hills. I noticed that when slowing for a curve with a hill following the car wants to stay locked in 6th gear doing 1300 rpm. I really dont feel comfortable there and will usually press down on the accelerator just to get it to down shift. My little Fiesta manual will knock like crazy if I try going up a hill under 2000 rpm and even the Dodge truck with the 5.7l will unlock and drop a gear. I have never heard the Mazda knock but I am on the edge of my seat listening for it, I cant believe it is happy pulling a 5% grade at 40 mph in 6th gear.
An old car with manual transmission has almost zero in common with a current automatic. Your Dodge is a 3-leaf clover; typical and everywhere. If your Mazda wasn’t happy, it would drop multiple gears or pull timing. The End.
 
I cant believe it is happy pulling a 5% grade at 40 mph in 6th gear.
My 41TE van will lug like crazy in OD at anything under 50mph when going up hill, it’s really annoying because I’m not trying to accelerate so I don’t need to give more throttle but either that or put it in 3 and remember to put it in D again after the hills are over
 
When a modern turbo engine has been designed to produce maximum torque at 1400 RPM then low RPM cruising should not be a problem. I'd be more concerned about premature wear on a dual mass fly wheel than the engine itself because it's working hard masking any lugging symptoms that the engine might produce.
 
Our 200k 18 Tiguan with 2.0T and AISIN/8 speed loafs between 1200 rpm and 1600 rpm at highway speed fine. It has spent about 85% of its life doing this for wife’s 70 mile round trip commute.
 
I got a ride in an Uber ride in a newer Honda Civic automatic and I could not believe the low rpms.... the tach never went over 2000, even under moderate acceleration. Cruising at 40-50 kph was usually achieved at about 1100 rpm! Being an old school car guy I was shocked, and can't imagine all the wizardry that has to go into making that possible.

In my manual 2006 Saturn Ion, my lowest cruising rpm is 1500 in 3rd which nets me 40 kph. Any slower than that and I'll shift into 2nd and cruise at 2500 where the motor seems very happy. With the s/c the motor is extremely flexible, but even then I will never push it below 3000. I usually shift at 3500-4000 which for me strikes the balance between performance and economy.
Hondas are usually rev-happy and love high RPMs to get moving. But that all changed with their TGDI 1.5L I4 that’s the base engine in the Accord/CR-V(you can get a hybrid, too) now. The times I’ve driven a Honda, they cruised anywhere from 2000-3000RPM. The V6s were towards the lower end of that spectrum, the Fit/Civics needed higher revs to maintain speed.

The 6-speed in my parent’s old LS430 allowed that to cruise just under 2500RPM down the freeway going 65-70.
 
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