Mobil 15w50 in 0w20 engine.

[Rolla07]

Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
In South America, Africa, South east Asia, they put Mineral 20W-50 into [censored] near anything with an internal combustion engine.
In fact in Sotuh America you will find most high mileage oils are 25W-50 or even 25W-60 oils!, but in a tropical climate near the equator where there aren't 4 defined seasons it likely doesn't matter that much as the temperature fluctuations are rather small.


ROFL.. not only is the oil logic outdated, so are the cars you drive. If I drove a 1975 anything, it would likely spec a much heavier oil. If you can have the same perks as running a thick oil but save a few pennies in gas, whats the problem?

 

[Vuflanovsky]

In some areas of South America and Africa you have to worry about the quality of the fuel too...so I can see people using thicker grades just based on that versus latitude, temperature, or BITOG members quoting the Bolivian owners manual. Everything is always apples to apples on here even when it isn't...Based on limited experience with thicker grades in my car, I can tell you if I ran 10w-60 in my 1.6 it would run like [censored] and I'd be going back to my "thin" oil the same day. "Thin" equals "Appropriate" in that example.

 

[NO2]

I don't get it. If you are using a tank every day you are driving 300-500 miles every day. Why not use one of the extended life (15K) oils, (like M1 EP) with a corresponding long life filter. You'd change your oil every other month instead of every month. All of that daily driving on a warm engine means virtually no wear, regardless of oil viscosity. Since you live in a warm but not oppressively hot climate just stick with a 0w-20, 5w-20 or 5w-30. The thinner oil might save you a fraction of a percent in fuel, but enough to pay for an oil change or two. The oil just has to be thick enough to prevent wear under your operating conditions, and thinner oil will put less strain on the internal parts.

 

[901Memphis]

Lucas makes a thicker oil

 

[Graham Piccinini]

Originally Posted By: L_Sludger
Next step is 85w140 gear oil.
You do realize that gear oils are rated differently than engine oils? Compared to engine oil 85w140 is like 10w30/10w40.

 

[Graham Piccinini]

Originally Posted By: NO2
I don't get it. If you are using a tank every day you are driving 300-500 miles every day. Why not use one of the extended life (15K) oils, (like M1 EP) with a corresponding long life filter. You'd change your oil every other month instead of every month. All of that daily driving on a warm engine means virtually no wear, regardless of oil viscosity. Since you live in a warm but not oppressively hot climate just stick with a 0w-20, 5w-20 or 5w-30. The thinner oil might save you a fraction of a percent in fuel, but enough to pay for an oil change or two. The oil just has to be thick enough to prevent wear under your operating conditions, and thinner oil will put less strain on the internal parts.
lets just say I like changing oil. And I'm trying to go through my stash too with 5k OCIs, except for this one (7k).

 

[Graham Piccinini]

Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Lucas makes a thicker oil



Perfect!

 

[6starprez]

I'm in North Carolina too and my Subaru "requires" 0W-20 also. The manual states a higher viscosity may be used in warmer weather but 15W-50 is taking it too far IMO. I've used 5W-20, 0W-30, 5W-30 and that's the thickest I would go. 5W-30 makes the engine feel sluggish compared to 0W-20 so I can imagine my engine running like [censored] with 15W-50.

I wonder what your oil temps are doing a lot of idling and using this thick oil.

 

[fdcg27]

I did a couple of runs of M1 15W-50 in both our '97 and '99 Accords for which 5W-30 was recommended.
The oil made both engines almost inline six smooth and quiet while rev-happiness and fuel economy declined noticeably. Not horribly, but enough that you could notice it in a car you'd driven for 100K.
I got the oil cheaply and as I later learned, I would have been better off saving the oil for the OPEs and my old BMW. Both the OPEs and the BMW seemed to do very well on this oil.

 

[Graham Piccinini]

Originally Posted By: 6starprez

I wonder what your oil temps are doing a lot of idling and using this thick oil.


Well, the temps are probably higher. But with high temps the viscosity goes down, right? So I hope it hovers around the higher 40w region with current conditions after warm up.

 

[tig1]

I had a 1990 Ford Tempo that I bought new, and used M1 5-30. After about 140K I tried M1 15-50. Immediately I noticed the engine was much more sluggish, and after a week or so I drained it out and went back to 5-30.

 

[philipp10]

Originally Posted By: Vlad_the_Russian
Originally Posted By: philipp10

Guys...if there was a decrease in fuel economy it would be in the sub 1% range. I doubt your highly calibrated instruments (gas pump) would be accurate enough to notice...

I once tried Valvoline 5w40 MST in my previous vehicle with 1zz-Fe engine. It felt like I was pulling a 5000 lbs trailer and my MPG decreased by 30-35% until next oil change. Needless to say it was a shorter OCI due to listed factors.


your engine would of melted from all that friction energy converted to heat...

 

[steve20]

Re: Mobil 15w50 in 0w20 engine.
tig1 Online content


Registered: 01/03/09
Posts: 12469
Loc: Illinois
I had a 1990 Ford Tempo that I bought new.................

I wouldn't mention it in public
Steve

 

[SR5]

Originally Posted By: tig1
I had a 1990 Ford Tempo that I bought new, .


Did you get the optional airbag ?

Originally Posted By: tig1
I noticed the engine was much more sluggish,

It's a Ford Tempo....

But I can't point fingers, I once had a Holden Camira, the Air-Con didn't work when I picked it up as the second owner, so I got it fixed. Big mistake, the fuel consumption went up and the car went into what would now feel like a limp home mode.

Going up the mountains,I had the binary choice of getting to the top or staying cool, the option of having both happen was not on the table.

 

[zeng]

Originally Posted By: Vlad_the_Russian
Originally Posted By: 6starprez

I wonder what your oil temps are doing a lot of idling and using this thick oil.


Well, the temps are probably higher. But with high temps the viscosity goes down, right? So I hope it hovers around the higher 40w region with current conditions after warm up.


Operating 15W50 at 100C has similar viscosity as 0W20 at 70C.
Does 0W20 at 70*C blow up an engine ?
...... then the xW rating is for what ?

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: SR5
Originally Posted By: tig1
I had a 1990 Ford Tempo that I bought new, .


Did you get the optional airbag ?

Originally Posted By: tig1
I noticed the engine was much more sluggish,

It's a Ford Tempo....

But I can't point fingers, I once had a Holden Camira, the Air-Con didn't work when I picked it up as the second owner, so I got it fixed. Big mistake, the fuel consumption went up and the car went into what would now feel like a limp home mode.

Going up the mountains,I had the binary choice of getting to the top or staying cool, the option of having both happen was not on the table.


That engine had something like 100 HP. With the 15-50 M1 the engine was much more sluggish. Speaking of mountains, I did drive that car up Pikes Peak in 1993. Performed well when others were sidelined with overheating. I sold that car to a friend with 140K. The last I knew the Tempo was at 255K and the owner still used M1 5-30 at 10K OCIs. Just sayin.

 

[SR5]

Nothing wrong with M1 5W30, I'm using it myself right now and I do like it.

I ran my old Camira (GM J-Car) with 1.6 L and 86 HP on GTX 20W50, because that is what you did back then in Oz. The engine always ran fine, never overheated, I did roughly 200K miles in it, but sold it to the wreckers (breakers) due to the body falling apart around the engine. The last few years I was very rough on it and did a lot of outback travel along some rough dirt roads.

 

[Shannow]

Mine was the "big block" 2.0, in station wagon format...

Went from 15W40 to 25W70 one winter to prove that "nothing would blow up"...

from back in the day....
Quote:
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Initial observations are that it takes no longer for the oil pressure light to go out, and the oil to hit the top end (I guess that it doesn't drain back very well). Cranking seems a little slower at -6C than the Delo.

The car IS down on performance, feeling a bit sluggish until really well warmed up, then the seat of the pants dyno reads about the same.

First tenk of juice (not conclusive, as it's only one, and is only the first), shows about a 1km/l mileage drop (about 3MPG). Guess that this oil isn't CAFE approved.

 

[Astro_Guy]

I recall putting Mobil 1 15w50 in a 10w30 engine back in 2004. It was a 1997 Audi A4 1.8T turbocharged engine with five valves per cylinder. This vehicle had both oil pressure and oil temperature gauges. Both readings were considerably elevated after introducing this oil. I recall driving it about 1000 miles, hoping that the oil would shear and readings would go back to normal. This did not happen, and I dumped the oil pretty quickly.

That experience was with a European car built in 1997 calling for 10w30. I cannot imagine why anyone would want to try such an oil in a modern day engine calling for 0w20.

 

[SR5]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
Mine was the "big block" 2.0, in station wagon format...


The 2.0L was also fuel injected from memory.

I ran Edge 10W60 in mine once, and it did seem to run better and smoother than the GTX 20W50. But at something like 3x the price, I only did it once.