Mobil 1 wins the contest...so far.

[Ben99GT]

Originally Posted By: buster
Most of these things are placebo and you can't substantiate the claims w/o #'s.


There have been numerous dyno sessions posted that showed significant HP (10+ rwhp) variations with different oils of the same grade. It all lies in how much you trust the dyno operator to keep variables consistent though, which is why I take most of these oil company sponsored dyno tests with a grain of salt.

Personally, I feel that some oils will provide more power, and 10 HP at the wheels can be felt by many.

 

[Oregoonian]

Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
Heres a suggestion; Next fill, use 60% MC and 40% Mobil 1 (same weight)...You'll have a semi-syn with about 50% syn and 50% conventional.


Why? Instead of mixing two different oils that will produce a less than optimized additive package, why not just use Mobil Clean 7500 and get a proper synthetic blend?

Mobil Clean is only about 20-30% syn....and its also hard to find. In mixing (As I suggested), you get a much higher syn percentage (50% +/-) and better performance...with less cost. MC is a top-rated semi-syn, yet vey cheap ($11.50/5 qt.jug @ WM).

 

[daman]

$23.50 for a oil that protects well and can do long OCI is very reasonable.

 

[Panzerman]

I believe that a high quality synthetic like Mobil 1 would make a difference vs conventional oil such as Castrol GTX or Motorcraft oil. I dont think that temp. of 50 degrees would. Oil grade such as 5w20.5w30 and 10w30 are so small that it is not even noticable unless its under lab conditions,you are not going to tell me if I put Viscosity X in your car if you can guess the grade. Same as flow rates of synthetics and conventional oils in temps, that arent into the way below freezing like -10. I been there and am not going by what the little charts and data say, but real life. It just isnt the case.

 

[Ben99GT]

Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
In mixing (As I suggested), you get a much higher syn percentage (50% +/-) and better performance...with less cost.


Highly unlikely, also where did you find base oil percentages for MC 7500?

 

[lonestar]

Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
Originally Posted By: cobos06GT
Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
Some oils provide better ring seal, and it's not hard to understand that a lower volatility synthetic should provide better ring seal than a conventional oil.


Can you explain volatility?


http://www.syntheticoildealer.com/what_is_the_noack_volatility_test.htm

http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/noack_volatility.htm


I wish some of these AMSOIL guys would take the time to update their websites for the most recent results in either of these links provided is five years old & even AMSOIL has changed it’s products since then. I also wish, but they never will, that AMSOIL and all other oil manufactures would compare synthetics to synthetics and conventionals to conventionals. It is expected that synthetics, especially boutique synthetics, are markedly better than conventionals and thus when I see all AMSOIL compare themselves to conventional oils it means nothing to me and warrants no validity.

In regards to seat of the pants dynos… I created a post a few months ago about my experience with Redline 5W20 in Ford 3.9L V8. My experience with that oil in that engine was not good. The car felt sluggest at all RPMs and MPHs and I dropped MPGs. I have no doubt that RL is excellent but in my application it simply was not. Let there be no mistake, I got blasted for saying that it felt sluggest & impacted MPGs but it was what it was.

 

[buster]

The RL 5w-20 has a HT/HS of 3.3, higher than most 30 grades so yes you could see less mpg and power compared to other 20 grade oils. Apples to oranges comparison.

 

[Ben99GT]

Originally Posted By: lonestar
The car felt sluggest at all RPMs and MPHs and I dropped MPGs. I have no doubt that RL is excellent but in my application it simply was not. Let there be no mistake, I got blasted for saying that it felt sluggest & impacted MPGs but it was what it was.


Based on my own experiences with the product, I find that very hard to believe. Where did you buy it from?

 

[buster]

HT/HS relates to fuel economy and power. Why do people have a hard time believe that RL 5w20 would yield lower mpg than a fuel economy based 20 grade?

Compare it to RL 0w-20 that has a HT/HS of 2.7.

 

[Ben99GT]

Originally Posted By: buster
The RL 5w-20 has a HT/HS of 3.3, higher than most 30 grades so yes you could see less mpg and power compared to other 20 grade oils. Apples to oranges comparison.


"With regard to engine friction measurements, correlations with HTHS viscosity are documented for comparisons made in the same engine under the same operating conditions. However, even under well-controlled conditions, the friction-modifying properties of the DI package in each oil can influence the degree of correlation."

http://books.google.com/books?id=Fu-99Mc...;q=&f=false

I gained almost 1 mpg with 3.8 HTHS RL 5W-30 versus 3.1 HTHS PP 5W-30 in my Mustang. It seems that HTHS is better at predicting friction and fuel economy than kinematic viscosity, but it still isn't cut and dry.

 

[buster]

Interesting, thank you. Wasn't aware of that.

Thing is, with RL 5w20, the HT/HS is considerably higher. It's not just a little. 22% higher than most fuel economy 20 grades. That is a lot to over come with FM's I would think.

 

[Ben99GT]

It's the same thing with RL 30-weights though, and I lost no fuel economy switching over to it. Like I already said, my average went up almost 1 mpg versus PP 5W-30 (I calculate my FE every fill up).

 

[cobos06GT]

Originally Posted By: daman
$23.50 for a oil that protects well and can do long OCI is very reasonable.


$26.50 at my local wally. Plus another $6.27 for the extra quart, and $3.50 for the filter. A little over $35 for a diy oil change isnt exactly cheap. I don't mind spending it, point of this thread is that I will spend it everytime from now on.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: cobos06GT
Originally Posted By: daman
$23.50 for a oil that protects well and can do long OCI is very reasonable.


$26.50 at my local wally. Plus another $6.27 for the extra quart, and $3.50 for the filter. A little over $35 for a diy oil change isnt exactly cheap. I don't mind spending it, point of this thread is that I will spend it everytime from now on.


Glad to hear you are happy with the results. I haven't used conventional in any engine I've owned.... ever. My first car, a 1974 Olds Cutlass Supreme was my first synth candidate. This was a long time ago; back when Canadian Tire synth was made by Imperial Oil.

That being said, I've experimented with various synthetics including AMSOIL, Valvoline, Royal Purple, but not yet Redline. I always seem to end up running Mobil 1 again.

I've accrued ~500,000Km on Mobil 1 oils in three vehicles. My results have always been excellent in terms of cleanliness and lack of wear. Could a conventional changed more frequently have yielded similar results? Perhaps. Bill in Utah's results in doing just that; running conventional at reasonable intervals over massive mileage sure speaks volumes on this. However, since I've never experimented in that manner, I cannot say that conclusively my results would be similar. What I can say, that with Ford engines, my results with Mobil 1 have been excellent. All three engines have well in excess of 300,000Km on them now BTW and are still in the family; two are in my driveway.

If you find a product that works for you. Continue using it. That's what everybody seems to do. My current favourite is M1 0w40. Ben loves Redline oils because they work for him. I have a buddy who swears by AMSOIL, as it has worked for him. Nothing wrong with having a favourite.

 

[Ben99GT]

"Edited by wwillson (03/20/10 04:10 PM)
Edit Reason: removed non-sponsor links "

Has this always been a policy here or is it something new?

 

[Ben99GT]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
What I can say, that with Ford engines, my results with Mobil 1 have been excellent.


I've had good success with M1 too.

You won't see me bashing it, as it has resulted in extremely clean engines for me.

I only switched to Pennzoil Platinum initially because I had been running M1 exclusively for so long I just wanted to try something else. Then the itch to try an ester based oil got to me...

 

[Oregoonian]

Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
In mixing (As I suggested), you get a much higher syn percentage (50% +/-) and better performance...with less cost.


Highly unlikely, also where did you find base oil percentages for MC 7500?

Its a semi-syn or blend. Based on other blends, they usually have between 20 to 30% syn

Valvoline MaxLife Blend has 30% syn...

 

[DieselTech]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: cobos06GT
Originally Posted By: daman
$23.50 for a oil that protects well and can do long OCI is very reasonable.


$26.50 at my local wally. Plus another $6.27 for the extra quart, and $3.50 for the filter. A little over $35 for a diy oil change isnt exactly cheap. I don't mind spending it, point of this thread is that I will spend it everytime from now on.


Glad to hear you are happy with the results. I haven't used conventional in any engine I've owned.... ever. My first car, a 1974 Olds Cutlass Supreme was my first synth candidate. This was a long time ago; back when Canadian Tire synth was made by Imperial Oil.

That being said, I've experimented with various synthetics including AMSOIL, Valvoline, Royal Purple, but not yet Redline. I always seem to end up running Mobil 1 again.

I've accrued ~500,000Km on Mobil 1 oils in three vehicles. My results have always been excellent in terms of cleanliness and lack of wear. Could a conventional changed more frequently have yielded similar results? Perhaps. Bill in Utah's results in doing just that; running conventional at reasonable intervals over massive mileage sure speaks volumes on this. However, since I've never experimented in that manner, I cannot say that conclusively my results would be similar. What I can say, that with Ford engines, my results with Mobil 1 have been excellent. All three engines have well in excess of 300,000Km on them now BTW and are still in the family; two are in my driveway.

If you find a product that works for you. Continue using it. That's what everybody seems to do. My current favourite is M1 0w40. Ben loves Redline oils because they work for him. I have a buddy who swears by AMSOIL, as it has worked for him. Nothing wrong with having a favourite.


I agree everyone can have a favorite.

I'm with ben Redline has treated me well and it has been very hard to experiment away from it. PU so far has been quite nice and a bit less expensive. Honestly I get redline at wholesale and I'm torn now between the 2 oils. It's like having your wife and a hot neighbor. UOA will dictate where I go from here. might be a nasty divorce or i'll have to dump the hotty.

 

[MJC302]

cobos...you're not nuts. I had the 2005 Mustang GT for two years and the difference is noticeable. I went to 0-30 M1. The 5-20 M1 made the car a tad louder and harsher. I feel it is do to the variable cam timing solenoids. New tech for the Mustang GT of 2005. I don't think they've refined them either. I use Redline 5-30 in my wife's CLS...just sweet!! M1 still does a great job in my GLK. I mix 0-30 and 0-40 in that 'Nazi nuts and bolts' SUV. Stick w/M1. Maybe trade your car in for the new 5.0 Mustang GT coming out!! Yeah baby!!

 

[Ben99GT]

Originally Posted By: DieselTech
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: cobos06GT
Originally Posted By: daman
$23.50 for a oil that protects well and can do long OCI is very reasonable.


$26.50 at my local wally. Plus another $6.27 for the extra quart, and $3.50 for the filter. A little over $35 for a diy oil change isnt exactly cheap. I don't mind spending it, point of this thread is that I will spend it everytime from now on.


Glad to hear you are happy with the results. I haven't used conventional in any engine I've owned.... ever. My first car, a 1974 Olds Cutlass Supreme was my first synth candidate. This was a long time ago; back when Canadian Tire synth was made by Imperial Oil.

That being said, I've experimented with various synthetics including AMSOIL, Valvoline, Royal Purple, but not yet Redline. I always seem to end up running Mobil 1 again.

I've accrued ~500,000Km on Mobil 1 oils in three vehicles. My results have always been excellent in terms of cleanliness and lack of wear. Could a conventional changed more frequently have yielded similar results? Perhaps. Bill in Utah's results in doing just that; running conventional at reasonable intervals over massive mileage sure speaks volumes on this. However, since I've never experimented in that manner, I cannot say that conclusively my results would be similar. What I can say, that with Ford engines, my results with Mobil 1 have been excellent. All three engines have well in excess of 300,000Km on them now BTW and are still in the family; two are in my driveway.

If you find a product that works for you. Continue using it. That's what everybody seems to do. My current favourite is M1 0w40. Ben loves Redline oils because they work for him. I have a buddy who swears by AMSOIL, as it has worked for him. Nothing wrong with having a favourite.


I agree everyone can have a favorite.

I'm with ben Redline has treated me well and it has been very hard to experiment away from it. PU so far has been quite nice and a bit less expensive. Honestly I get redline at wholesale and I'm torn now between the 2 oils. It's like having your wife and a hot neighbor. UOA will dictate where I go from here. might be a nasty divorce or i'll have to dump the hotty.


If price wasn't a factor, I would run RL in everything. As it stands now I'm using Ultra in my truck simply because it's not $10/qt. How much can you get RL motor oil for?