Mobil 1 UOA

[jmsjags]

Originally Posted By: baddrummerboyy
My main focus is handling, I have more mods in that department then for speed.


well u realize u have wrong-wheel drive for that right?

 

[baddrummerboyy]

Originally Posted By: jmsjags
Originally Posted By: baddrummerboyy
My main focus is handling, I have more mods in that department then for speed.


well u realize u have wrong-wheel drive for that right?

There is more to handling then where the wheels puts the power down.

This is not a direct hit to you but I see that you have a 2002 mustang GT.

STOCK Si produce 0.92g (car and driver) on skidpad Vs Stock 2002 Mustange GT 0.84g(motor trend) on skidpad

Si

Mustange GT

When you head out to the road course or open track day, you'll be surpraise how well these "front wheel" drive cars clock times.

 

[Scuderia]

Originally Posted By: jmsjags
Originally Posted By: baddrummerboyy
My main focus is handling, I have more mods in that department then for speed.


well u realize u have wrong-wheel drive for that right?

British Touring Car Championship

nuff said...

 

[tig1]

Every oil tested and shown here will have some reports showing higher metals in some engines and lower in others. Means nothing as for actual engine wear. I can't really remember any reports where the metals were out of the normal area with used oil analysis with any oil. Maybe a couple where the engines were toast.
Have you had engine wear that was measured? Trying to determine actual engine wear by used oil analysis is futal unless it's extremly high which you rarely see here.,

 

[Geonerd]

The higher revs will significantly increase bearing loads.

Personally, I'd go with something thicker. Look for ACEA A3/B4 specs, indicating HTHS values of 3.5 or higher. HTHS numbers of 4+ may(?) be an over-reaction, but won't hurt a thing

IMO, you don't need something $ and exotic, just THICKER!


Red Line 10W30 or higher, if you've got the $

'German Castrol' (Syntec 0w30 = "European Formula"), one of the thickest 30W going, is on sale at Pep Boys. 5qt plus a decent Purolator filter for $27.

If you want to stick with M1, upgrade to 0w-40 or 10w30HM at the least. Even the 10w-40 mixes, or Xw-50 are not excessive. (Mobil's 50w oils are on the thin side of the range.)

 

[tig1]

I wouldn't be too concerned about Mobil 1 5w30 in high reving engines
Johnny was at the Daytona 24 hour race and many of the teams there use Mobil 1 5w30 off the shelf oil for their engines. Second page. Half way down.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/24-hours-of-daytona.124314/

 

[38sho]

Originally Posted By: GMBoy
I'm still finding it hard to believe you're getting 240-250hp.


not that I'm a honda fanboy

but a K20 with I/H/E and a tune can put down 225whp easily........ thats to the wheels on a dyno

needless to say stock 5.0 mustangs didn't even top 200whp..... and 4.6's weren't much better

my FWD Taurus will eat your 99-04 mustang for breakfast...... the last one I raced was a 2002, manual with intake, headers, exhaust setup..... I put two cars on him from 25-130mph... my car came stock with 220hp..... his 260hp

don't go by my 1/4 mile time as to how fast my car is.... the SHO is 100 times better from a roll

 

[shpankey]

You can still stick with Mobil 1, just use a better Mobil 1 than the 5w30 (probably their weakest oil). The Mobil 1 Extended Performance is good stuff, the Mobil 1 High Mileage is great stuff. The Mobil 1 0w-40 Euro is phenominal stuff. If you're pushing 250 ponies, I'd go with the latter.

PU is no doubt going to turn out to be an awesome oil though, so I can't blame you there if you switch. I base this on countless Pennzoil Platinum used oil analysis that are all great. Since PU is going to be their higher end product, it will be better than PP obviously, and that is SAYING something!

Still, I don't think Mobil 1 is getting a fair shake here. Though I do agree, I would move away from the 5w30 formulation. I would run the Mobil 1 0w30 before that, which is a great oil, but I'd want something thicker than that in your app. Much like my fully bolted MS3, I bet Rotella T Syn would turn in great used oil analysis for you. They turn in awesome ones over on the mazdaspeed forums. My picks...

**GC w/ P1 filter combo at PepBoys on sale $27

**Rotella T Syn 5w-40 at Walmart $18, buy a filter of your choice

**Mobil 1 0w-40 Euro w/ Mobil 1 Extended Performance filter at AAP sale $27

Not necessarily in that order. Any of these would work great for you I think.

 

[Jehartley]

I don't know about regular Mobil 1, but the EP flavor is working extremely well in my Camaro. I have Pennzoil Ultra in my Sierra and it is doing well so far. I wanted to put it in the Camaro, but at the last minute I put in the Mobil EP because it is a DI engine and I was afraid the high Novack% would be bad for the car.

Either oil is probably going to serve you well from what I have experienced and read on this site.

 

[tig1]

Remember Mobil 1 5w30 is one of the few oils that meet the Honda HTO spec. A number of high performance engines recomend Mobil 1 5w30. A friend uses this oil and has over 310K on his Duratech V6 with 8-10k OCIs. Engine still runs great and I know he runs it hard at times.

 

[Alex38]

I wouldn't worry about using M1, but I agree on changing to a 10w30HM or 0w40. If you're going to switch, GC would be an excellent choice, as would Redline.

 

[roushstage2]

Originally Posted By: 38sho

my FWD Taurus will eat your 99-04 mustang for breakfast...... the last one I raced was a 2002, manual with intake, headers, exhaust setup..... I put two cars on him from 25-130mph... my car came stock with 220hp..... his 260hp

don't go by my 1/4 mile time as to how fast my car is.... the SHO is 100 times better from a roll

There are quite a few cars that can be "faster" than others from a roll. I wouldn't go by a roll-start to judge how completely fast your car is. Granted, the Taurus SHO is a thing of beauty regardless. Very respectable car. However, at the track, do you "roll" up to the line at 25MPH and then take off? No...

Driver's also play a large roll in how "fast" the car can be.

 

[baddrummerboyy]

Ok, guys I am going to give Mobil 1 another chance. I will try using the 0w-40 from mobil 1. I hope it does the trick !!! Its a lot cheaper then redline.

Do you guys think I should dump the 5w30 in my car as of right now. It only has 500 miles on the oil?

 

[Coogles]

What do people do about the balance shafts? I know the K20 that came in the RSX-s didn't even have them. Does anyone who mods the new Si's disengage or remove them?

 

[Alex38]

I wouldn't worry about dumping fresh Mobil 1 5w30. Just switch at your next oil change.

 

[shpankey]

Don't dump it! Just do an early change (3k mi) if you must. It's not going to hurt anything. But excellent decision with going to the Mobil 1 0w-40.

I'd get in on that AAP sale, Mobil 1 0w-40 with the Mobil 1 Extended Performance filter for an incredible combo.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: baddrummerboyy
Ok, guys I am going to give Mobil 1 another chance. I will try using the 0w-40 from mobil 1. I hope it does the trick !!! Its a lot cheaper then redline.

Do you guys think I should dump the 5w30 in my car as of right now. It only has 500 miles on the oil?


It doesn't make since to dump one of the best oils around.

 

[Scuderia]

Don't get the Puralator filter. It's a great filter for filtering, but there are some doubts about flow. And since you're revving you car a lot oil flow is more important. Get a K&N, Royal Purple, or a Mugen filter (if you can afford it).

 

[chevrofreak]

Originally Posted By: Scuderia
Don't get the Puralator filter. It's a great filter for filtering, but there are some doubts about flow. And since you're revving you car a lot oil flow is more important. Get a K&N, Royal Purple, or a Mugen filter (if you can afford it).


Who has doubts? It's been proven that the PureONE flows very well.

 

[rclint]

I stand amazed after reading this thread. A newbie (nothing wrong with a newbie) has come to this forum seeking knowledge...after reading this thread two big points come up. Mobil 1 5w30 is a lesser quality oil than other Mobil 1 oils, and Purolator filter is not a good filter based on flow.

I'm calling [censored] to a lot of what has been told to the new guy seeking knowledge here !! If you are going to state something which has zero credibility at least phrase it so the OP knows this is just your opinion which has no data to back it up.

The OP did find data on Mobil 1, and he asked about that... very little info was giving... I don't know either why Mobil 1 has high iron, however it is, or can be a fact when using this oil.

If it were my car the very first thing I would do is look at any other OEM applications running my setup, or as close to it as possible. Do any Honda's come from the manufacture with anything near your modified engine ? If so then look at the oil Honda recommends for that application, this would be the best starting point in choosing an oil.

You have two things in my opinion you are dealing with in your engine to select a oil other than what was recommended by Honda. Upgraded camshaft, and modified ECO which may equate to more fuel. You may be putting a high load om bearings etc, and you may be dealing with more heat from the above mods as well. These are the things you should consider while researching an oil outside of the recommended manufacture specification.

This is my opinion