I searched but couldn't find. . . Has anyone unearthed a good Noack % for the GC. I already have GC, and will be starting my own trial next week regardless, but I still want to know that #. If it's unduly high, I plan to be extra careful since my engine is the Toyota 1MZ V-6 (sludge reputation in earlier forms). I suspect, just my own hunch, that high evaporation is likely a substantial contributor to sludge, thus my curiosity.
Mobil 1 Truck SUV versus German Castrol
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I have the Audi V6 12v motor that was made before the 30v was introduced. The 12v motor loves M1 5W-40. I will have a UOA done after 5k miles. I can't speak for the 30v, but if 5W-40 is a recommended viscosity, I'd pick that over the 0W-30, simply because you, like me, are in California, and it does get hot here. The M1 5W-40 is made for "diesel and high performance gas engines."
When the dealer changed my oil (the GC 0W30), I had them put in the 5W40 (from Belgium?) which they are now stocking. I will run that to 10K and do a sample on it. They charged $8.75 a quart...ouch.
[ May 05, 2004, 01:55 PM: Message edited by: Curtis Newton ]
[ May 05, 2004, 01:55 PM: Message edited by: Curtis Newton ]
I'll throw out that you should use M1 0w-40. Hey if it is approved as factory fill for newest car from Volkswagen Audi Group, the Bentley, then it should be good enough for the Audi Motor. I would also expect that M1 0w-40 will be the easiest to obtain and be around the longest.
Cary
Cary
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His Audi is a '98. He needs an A3-rated oil. Although M1 0W-40 meets the specs, I fell that he will have consumption issues with that oil in that engine. There is no need for a 0W-x oil in CA.
Dillema here: A local walmart carriews the Mobil 1 0w40 for $3.38 per quart, as well as the SUV oil for $4.81. Kragen sometimes in a blue moon has mobil 1 for $3.99 after coupon, and GC is sometimes on sale at Autozone (if not, then about $4.99/qt).
For $3.38 a quart, the 0w40 seems like a winner (hopefully walmart doesn't make this higher priced. they also have mobil 1 0w20, 5w30, 10w30 for $3.38!). I think the 30v V6 will do ok with the 0w40, though it does shear more than GC does.
I do persoanlly think that the SUV ($4.81) oil is made better than the 0w40, but the price difference per quart (about $1.50); is it really worth it?
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If you have to add a quart of the cheaper M1 0W-40 every 1500 miles (could be more or less, naturally), then I don't think you'll save any money.
I'll respond by noting that I changed my wife's 1994 BMW 525i (which was designed around heavier oils) from Mobil 1 15w-50 to the 0w-40. After 500 miles of increased oil consumption, I noticed that the consumption dropped to about 1 quart every 4000 miles compared to the 15w-50 using 1 quart every 0w-40.
Also, even in our Mild California Climate (BTW, I have had cold starts in -5f weather up in Truckee), I have notice that the hydro lifters quite much faster at 50f with the 0w-40 than the 15w-50.
Cary
Can you really trust Castrol to not do a bait and switch with GC? I know that I can almost bet money on M1 not going to a group III oil and calling it synthetic. We all know that the same can not besaid about Castrol. Even if the Castrol was a better product right now I do not trust them! SO by defualt I would say use the SUV 5W40!
Bait and switch on GC? Are you off the meds? GC is green and has a distinctive smell. Are you saying that Castrol will put HC oil in a bottle marked "Made in Germany" and plaster the mfg specs on it too? Wouldn't that leave them open to legal action by Mercedes, BMW, VW, Audi and Porsche owners? I would not want to **** -off that group.
There is still devate over castrol oils in general especially about their syn oils, but, I believe that you can purchase castrol oil and be safe about it, as long as you know more than the average person does. Take the GC for example, it, in my opinion is a little known great oil from castrol. Scarcity is my only concern with this oil, and the confirmation that this german formual is here to stay in the states.
Mobil 1 will always be in the states. If it ever came to the point that GC was impossible to find or was no longer being imported, I guess the choice would be bewtween 0w40 and the 5w40 mobil 1. If the 5w40 ($4.81) was the same price as the 0w40 ($3.38), then the choice would be even easier to make.
Does anyone know how much the 0w40 shears at 7,500-10,000 miles? It is probably more so than the 5w40, as the 0w40 is energy conserving II.
Mobil 1 will always be in the states. If it ever came to the point that GC was impossible to find or was no longer being imported, I guess the choice would be bewtween 0w40 and the 5w40 mobil 1. If the 5w40 ($4.81) was the same price as the 0w40 ($3.38), then the choice would be even easier to make.
Does anyone know how much the 0w40 shears at 7,500-10,000 miles? It is probably more so than the 5w40, as the 0w40 is energy conserving II.
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Well, my Audi V6 12v motor didn't sound good with the M1 0W-40 (mostly loud valve train when hot), and it was the only oil with which I had noticeable oil consumption over 2k miles. Your 30v may of course be different in that reghard.
But yeah, why did you 15W-50 in Truckee in the winter? In California we have of course extreme temperatures if you go from the Sierra to the Central Valley during the winter. You might see temps from minus to over 90 degrees. Under those mixed conditions, I feel a 5w-40 is the best compromise. If the 0W-40 works for you, by all means, use it.
Where can I find Mobil T & S 5w40 in 5 quart jugs?
The only stuff I see at my local wally world are the $4.75 Quart containers, which is a little more expensive.
Also does anyone know if they stock delvac 1 5w40 there? I know they have the delvac 1300 15w40.
Is it available anywhere other than a truckstop?
Thanks
The only stuff I see at my local wally world are the $4.75 Quart containers, which is a little more expensive.
Also does anyone know if they stock delvac 1 5w40 there? I know they have the delvac 1300 15w40.
Is it available anywhere other than a truckstop?
Thanks
Used 15w-50 in my old 320i which approved of that weight down to 20F, got a bit thick at 10f. BTW, it was not continuous, only when I went up skiing a few times. Fortunately, when it was -5F, I had 10w-30 M1 in the car I was driving.
Cary
THankfully I do not need any med.'s just yet! You can add any color dye you want to any oil synthetic or non-synthetic! THe smell would be a bit harder but I doubt that most people are huffing their oil. Remeber Castrol claims that their is no difference between the green made in Germany 0W30 and their brown made in the USA 0W30. No place in 100 miles of me has had any of the GC so I do not know what it smells like.
When Castrol went from PAo to GIII oil in syntec to save money they did not tell customers! They did not pass the saveing on to them either. We also know that SLX was pulled from some market due to deposit issues!
As far as I am concerned Castrol has a history of deceptive bait and switch practices. SO I sure hope your huffing pays off.
When Castrol went from PAo to GIII oil in syntec to save money they did not tell customers! They did not pass the saveing on to them either. We also know that SLX was pulled from some market due to deposit issues!
As far as I am concerned Castrol has a history of deceptive bait and switch practices. SO I sure hope your huffing pays off.
SCORE!
dillema partially solved.
I just picked up 8 quarts of Mobil 1 0w40 for $2 a bottle at walmart, it was on clearence! $16 for 8 quarts is a steal!!
So now i have 9 quarts of GC, 8 quarts of 0w40, now i need to stock up on some SUV oil....
dillema partially solved.
I just picked up 8 quarts of Mobil 1 0w40 for $2 a bottle at walmart, it was on clearence! $16 for 8 quarts is a steal!!
So now i have 9 quarts of GC, 8 quarts of 0w40, now i need to stock up on some SUV oil....
"They sell and Recommend heavier viscosities in Europe then they do in the U.S"
Why is that?
1. Colder Climate?
2. High Performance Motors?
I just bought a Isuzu Axiom Suv.
for my wife and family.
With a 3.5L direct injection motor 250hp.
24V... a pretty high tech motor.
O/M recommends 5w-30 winter 10w-30 summer dino oil.
I have access to M1 and Amsoil.
I was wanting to start using M1 5w-40 or Amsoil 5w-40 year round here in Oklahoma... winters get fairly cold-Summers get fairly hot 100 to 105.
Any thoughts or advice on this matter would be appriciated..
Audi Junkie, Who says GC 0W30 is so great? Second if you are a large blender and have a lot of capacity that is not being used and is not selling well in other markets what do you do? You dump your excess where ever you can! Our friends from Austraila have informed us that SLX had huge issues in the land down under! I trust Doug Hillary not to purposely lie or decieve me.
Third Mobil-1 one preety much lets everyone know when they make formula changes. Exxon/Mobil releases press releases and often braggs about their changes. They also author a lot of papers on their various new base stocks all the time.
OTC is a bit misleading anyway as several good oils are OTC regionaly but not nationaly. I have looked 100 miles in each direction from me and can not find German Castrol at all! Seeing how I live in a cold climate and am also close to Motor City you would think that distribution of it would not be an issue.
We do not even know the base stocks used in GC. We assume that they are diester base stocks but we do not know for sure. I know that M1 is mostly PAO and that SUV/Delvac-1 is 26% Ester and 74% PAO. I can be reasonable sure that M1 will not make either of these lines from a G III base but you can not say the same thing about any of Castrol products. To me trust is just as important as the product itself. If I can not trust the company to keep putting the same great product in the bottle then I just as soon note use it at all. I would try it once though if I could buy it some place I go semi-regulary.
Seeing how I am testing a large array of viscositys, brands, and base stocks I would include GC if it became available.
Third Mobil-1 one preety much lets everyone know when they make formula changes. Exxon/Mobil releases press releases and often braggs about their changes. They also author a lot of papers on their various new base stocks all the time.
OTC is a bit misleading anyway as several good oils are OTC regionaly but not nationaly. I have looked 100 miles in each direction from me and can not find German Castrol at all! Seeing how I live in a cold climate and am also close to Motor City you would think that distribution of it would not be an issue.
We do not even know the base stocks used in GC. We assume that they are diester base stocks but we do not know for sure. I know that M1 is mostly PAO and that SUV/Delvac-1 is 26% Ester and 74% PAO. I can be reasonable sure that M1 will not make either of these lines from a G III base but you can not say the same thing about any of Castrol products. To me trust is just as important as the product itself. If I can not trust the company to keep putting the same great product in the bottle then I just as soon note use it at all. I would try it once though if I could buy it some place I go semi-regulary.
Seeing how I am testing a large array of viscositys, brands, and base stocks I would include GC if it became available.
So, which oil company "tells" customers what the current composition of their basestock is anyway? CAS#s were available, doesn't that "tell" the customer? How many oil companies sell GIII as synthetic? Almost all do. The fact that Castrol was the first to do so is more to their credit than not. Let me get this right...Castrol brings an amazing product to the US market, better than any other otc oil. They sell it dirt cheap, $4q just so they can switch to dye and GI or GIII while keeping the mfg certs on the bottle. Is that what you are so paranoid about? Put down the pipe.
What's your source for this? SLX was approved for 60,000km ocis...probally only the dye and baby oil version created sludge. MB 229.3 has a sludge stipulation, which Castrol SLX passed in lab testing, not good enough for JB though.
[ May 09, 2004, 12:25 PM: Message edited by: Audi Junkie ]
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