Mobil 1 ESP X2 0w20

[Patman]

You don't feel confident in using VRP continuously ?

The problem with VRP is that I can’t get it in Canada and even though I cross the border once a month into the US, the closer Walmart that I go to doesn’t carry it. I have had to drive another 40 minute round trip to a different location and the last time I did that they were out of 0w20 VRP So moving forward I want to use an oil that I can easily find at one of the many Canadian Tire locations near me.

Another thing about VRP is that I’m not really sure if it’s the right choice for doing 9-10k intervals.

 

[Patman]

I also will be starting VRP for 4 OCI’s on the Sienna here soon. M1 ESP X2 0W20 is on the short list after along with M1 Hybrid 0W20 and a few others.

Just in the mood to try something different for no particular reason.

I’m like that too when it comes to oil choices. Even though I know that I’m very unlikely to see any engine problems no matter what oil I run in this low stress environment that my Civic has, as an oil nerd I just like having something unique and better than average in the crankcase

 

[ATex7239]

I’m like that too when it comes to oil choices. Even though I know that I’m very unlikely to see any engine problems no matter what oil I run in this low stress environment that my Civic has, as an oil nerd I just like having something unique and better than average in the crankcase

Yeah, for sure. Considering most oils are in the $23-30 USD range at WM, why not play around? It literally changes nothing financially (for me at least) or reliably wise and breaks up the monotony.

 

[kschachn]

Dexos D

Can you explain how that would be better than VW 508 00 approval in a gasoline engine?

 

[Patman]

Yeah, for sure. Considering most oils are in the $23-30 USD range at WM, why not play around? It literally changes nothing financially (for me at least) or reliably wise and breaks up the monotony.

Up here most of my oil choices come in around $45 ($32 US) but if I buy them from Canadian Tire I time it when it’s also giving back at least $5 in rewards money so it’s actually cheaper for me to buy oil here. And either way, I’m not spending a crazy amount on oil for my cars since I don’t do short intervals in either of my cars

 

[scoot]

Yeah, for sure. Considering most oils are in the $23-30 USD range at WM, why not play around? It literally changes nothing financially (for me at least) or reliably wise and breaks up the monotony.

I'm in the mindset of keeping within the same makeup of the oil consistently. Granted when you look at a simple VOA they are all very similar . Going between two three or four oils all the time to me seems like black magic . I'm not a scientist but on Bob's site I get to pretend I am

 

[lakestone]

@Patman The Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W-20 is one of the thinnest 0W-20 oils around. It's been blended for absolute fuel economy. It doesn't make it bad by any means. It's probably very good oil. I only ran it once about a year ago and it worked as well as any other oil.

What I have found is the extended drain intervals are not so much up to the oil, provided it's a good quality product (Mobil1, Pennzoil, Castrol, Amsoil, etc.), as it is up the engine, sump size, filtration, fuel, and driving conditions. Some GDI and TGDI engine for example absolutely trash oil, and when you drive a vehicle like that in heavy city traffic, it completely destroys oil. All of a sudden you're happy with 4K to 5K oil change intervals, or even shorter.

In a old school port injected Toyota engine you can go 15K to 20K miles on an oil changed in mixed traffic, but predominantly highway. You can't do that in a Hyundai Theta II engine because some connecting rods might exit the block prematurely. You can do it in the Toyota with almost any name brand 0W-20, while in a Hyundai you'd have to do 5K intervals no matter what and go up a grade or two in viscosity. The same goes for some modern Honda engines, and I don't know yet what the deal is with the Turbo charged Toyota engines in their pickup trucks, and if they ever fixed the issue.

 

[ATex7239]

I'm in the mindset of keeping within the same makeup of the oil consistently. Granted when you look at a simple VOA they are all very similar . Going between two three or four oils all the time to me seems like black magic . I'm not a scientist but I'm Bob's site I get to pretend I am

Nothing wrong with that. If you are taking data and trending, it is best to control variability as much as possible. I don’t do that so it doesn’t really do anything for me to stick with one.

 

[Vercingetorix]

Can you explain how that would be better than VW 508 00 approval in a gasoline engine?

I don’t have to. The answer is obvious.

 

[Patman]

@lakestone I am actually happy about the idea of using an oil that has absolute best fuel economy in mind. I always pay attention to what my fuel economy is on every single trip I take and I will often choose a different route if I know I’m going to get better fuel economy on it. On my 30 minute drive from Niagara Falls to Niagara on the Lake yesterday, that route gave me 62 MPG (granted there is about a 200 foot elevation change on that route) A lot of my trips on flat ground end up being over 55 MPG, which is how I managed to average close to 50 MPG over a 7000 mile stretch in the warm weather last summer and early fall. Even in this colder than normal winter my average over the last 2500 miles has been 44.2 MPG.
I certainly won’t notice if this oil ends up giving me another 0.2 MPG increase compared to other oils but it’s still nice knowing that the potential is there.

 

[Klutch9]

@Patman The Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W-20 is one of the thinnest 0W-20 oils around. It's been blended for absolute fuel economy. It doesn't make it bad by any means. It's probably very good oil. I only ran it once about a year ago and it worked as well as any other oil.

What I have found is the extended drain intervals are not so much up to the oil, provided it's a good quality product (Mobil1, Pennzoil, Castrol, Amsoil, etc.), as it is up the engine, sump size, filtration, fuel, and driving conditions. Some GDI and TGDI engine for example absolutely trash oil, and when you drive a vehicle like that in heavy city traffic, it completely destroys oil. All of a sudden you're happy with 4K to 5K oil change intervals, or even shorter.

In an old school port injected Toyota engine you can go 15K to 20K miles on an oil changed in mixed traffic, but predominantly highway. You can't do that in a Hyundai Theta II engine because some connecting rods might exit the block prematurely. You can do it in the Toyota with almost any name brand 0W-20, while in a Hyundai you'd have to do 5K intervals no matter what and go up a grade or two in viscosity. The same goes for some modern Honda engines, and I don't know yet what the deal is with the Turbo charged Toyota engines in their pickup trucks, and if they ever fixed the issue.

This isn’t necessarily true. It has a low viscosity at 100c, but if you go by the HTFS values it’s much thicker. The same also goes for other euro 0w20s.

 

[kschachn]

@Patman The Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W-20 is one of the thinnest 0W-20 oils around. It's been blended for absolute fuel economy. It doesn't make it bad by any means. It's probably very good oil. I only ran it once about a year ago and it worked as well as any other oil.

What I have found is the extended drain intervals are not so much up to the oil, provided it's a good quality product (Mobil1, Pennzoil, Castrol, Amsoil, etc.), as it is up the engine, sump size, filtration, fuel, and driving conditions. Some GDI and TGDI engine for example absolutely trash oil, and when you drive a vehicle like that in heavy city traffic, it completely destroys oil. All of a sudden you're happy with 4K to 5K oil change intervals, or even shorter.

In an old school port injected Toyota engine you can go 15K to 20K miles on an oil changed in mixed traffic, but predominantly highway. You can't do that in a Hyundai Theta II engine because some connecting rods might exit the block prematurely. You can do it in the Toyota with almost any name brand 0W-20, while in a Hyundai you'd have to do 5K intervals no matter what and go up a grade or two in viscosity. The same goes for some modern Honda engines, and I don't know yet what the deal is with the Turbo charged Toyota engines in their pickup trucks, and if they ever fixed the issue.

Thinnest? It has at least a 2.6 HT/HS.

 

[kschachn]

I don’t have to. The answer is obvious.
View attachment 265313

Another joke?

 

[Patman]

Thinnest? It has at least a 2.6 HT/HS.

Aren’t all 0w20s out there basically 2.6 to 2.7 for the HTHS? I can’t seem to find any HTHS values for any of the oils I have been considering, M1 always used to include it on their website but now they only seem to do it for a select few of their products

 

[Klutch9]

Aren’t all 0w20s out there basically 2.6 to 2.7 for the HTHS? I can’t seem to find any HTHS values for any of the oils I have been considering, M1 always used to include it on their website but now they only seem to do it for a select few of their products

Thats where HTFS comes into play to determine thickness.

 

[kschachn]

Aren’t all 0w20s out there basically 2.6 to 2.7 for the HTHS? I can’t seem to find any HTHS values for any of the oils I have been considering, M1 always used to include it on their website but now they only seem to do it for a select few of their products

Yes they are. I made that mistake before thinking that the VW 508 00 and Porsche C20 approvals require a higher value. They don’t. Sorry about that. Lakestone is correct that even AFE has a higher viscosity. Not that I think that’s very important as @Klutch9 notes.

 

[Vercingetorix]

Another joke?

The only joke is I forget I need to explain my references more clearly. In response to the OP (that means Original Poster) and his question

I’m curious as to how many people here might be using this oil?

People using this oil, meaning this oil specifically

Mobil 1 ESP X2 0w20.​

People use it in applications requiring Dexos D. And like my neighbor, he us use it in his Tiguan and his diesel Tahoe. It meets both the specifications he needs.

 

[kschachn]

The only joke is I forget I need to explain my references more clearly. In response to the OP (that means Original Poster) and his question

People using this oil, meaning this oil specifically

Mobil 1 ESP X2 0w20.​

People use it in applications requiring Dexos D. And like my neighbor, he us use it in his Tiguan and his diesel Tahoe. It meets both the specifications he needs.

That’s nice.

 

[RaymondP]

M1 ESP confusions. What does the "X" signify to differentiate from the none "X" ESP? Is it just marketing or different approvals. X designation is harder to obtain and more costly, so ultimately does it matter? My application is a 2021 Merc GLC300 4Matic with 229.51 & 229.52 requirements. Been using M1 ESP 0w30 (no X) from day one.

 

[RevvCats]

M1 ESP confusions. What does the "X" signify to differentiate from the none "X" ESP? Is it just marketing or different approvals. X designation is harder to obtain and more costly, so ultimately does it matter? My application is a 2021 Merc GLC300 4Matic with 229.51 & 229.52 requirements. Been using M1 ESP 0w30 (no X) from day one.

I think it’s just the version of that oil. 0w-20 is x2 so this is the second version of it, 0w-40
is x4 and I’ve seen both x3 and x4 on the shelf mixed together. Some of the euro fs oils are that way too.

In one of the LSjr’s videos he tested different Mobil 1 oils and the 0w-40 x3 seemed pretty darn similar to the “new” C40 GT oil for Porsche. I’d love to see the x4 version go through the same tests to see is Mobil cheapened it up in some way, the x3 had great sheer stability.