Mobil 1 advanced vs Mobil 1 extended

[tig1]

I used to think that regular “vanilla” M1 was good enough, especially for people doing 5k intervals, and in the past it probably was (especially in the “tri synthetic” era) But now I’m rethinking that when I hear of people that are switching from regular M1 to VRP and finding that it is doing some cleaning, as well as reducing consumption. So it appears that the basic M1 might not be the way to go these days and you might have better results using M1 EP or ESP or any of their higher end offerings that have more stringent approvals. Just having dexos1 approval doesn’t seem to be enough these days.

I wouldn't believe everything you hear.

 

[dubber09]

The way I look at things like that is - the newer and more valuable car/truck/item is worth better care that may result in higher maintenance cost; to me a better oil is justified. Better care will result in longer life and better condition of the item over time, in case the owner cares about such things. In short, I'd rather use better and more expensive oil on a newer vehicle than on a (non collector item) 15 year old one.

 

[Patman]

I wouldn't believe everything you hear.

Are you saying that the members on here are flat out lying about the reduction of oil consumption after using VRP? That’s a bold statement to make

 

[Revving2Redline]

I wouldn't believe everything you hear.

I think he wasn't trying to trash vanilla m1, more so explain that there are oils out there that can remove some of the markings of older oil. I consider EP M1 night and day ahead of its other products minus maybe the 0w-40. To be fair most premium lines of oil do a much better job. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum was proven to do so over Platinum and im sure Valvoline Restore and Protect and Extended Performance High Mileage beat the pants off the lower tiers. Amsoil SS would be the only line of oil that I would use from them for precisely the same reason. Only so much money and ingredients can be put in a bottle of oil and the more you spend the better stuff you get.

 

[tig1]

Are you saying that the members on here are flat out lying about the reduction of oil consumption after using VRP? That’s a bold statement to make

Did I say that?

 

[Patman]

Did I say that?

So what exactly did you mean then?

 

[tig1]

So what exactly did you mean then?

Ok. I've used M1 oils since 1978 and have never found an engine with any visible sludge or varnish at 10K OCI. M1 oils have an outstanding record here for keeping engines clean. The tri synthetic era was a long time ago, but I have found the M1 oils in the last 20-25 years have once again kept my engines very clean even with high mileage engines like my present Ford Fusion with 333K, again with 10K OCIs. The so called vanilla M1 is still and outstanding product with OCIs good for 10K and beyond. Now with direct injection turbo engines I might drop back to 7-8K perhaps, but I have no need for turbos. I have talked to Mobil tech and they have tested turbo engines and they claim that M1 10k oil will actually surpass 10K by several K. So I just roll my eyes when threads present other oils clean up dirty engines that used M1 oils, especially with 5K OCIs which for most engines is a waste of oil and filters. This is my 07 Fusion at about 330K. Any discoloration is residual oil. and not varnish. Nothing was cleaned up.

 

[Patman]

Ok. I've used M1 oils since 1978 and have never found an engine with any visible sludge or varnish at 10K OCI. M1 oils have an outstanding record here for keeping engines clean. The tri synthetic era was a long time ago, but I have found the M1 oils in the last 20-25 years have once again kept my engines very clean even with high mileage engines like my present Ford Fusion with 333K, again with 10K OCIs. The so called vanilla M1 is still and outstanding product with OCIs good for 10K and beyond. Now with direct injection turbo engines I might drop back to 7-8K perhaps, but I have no need for turbos. I have talked to Mobil tech and they have tested turbo engines and they claim that M1 10k oil will actually surpass 10K by several K. So I just roll my eyes when threads present other oils clean up dirty engines that used M1 oils, especially with 5K OCIs which for most engines is a waste of oil and filters. This is my 07 Fusion at about 330K. Any discoloration is residual oil. and not varnish. Nothing was cleaned up.View attachment 291579View attachment 291579

Just because you have seen those kind of results doesn’t mean everyone will. You have been running “vanilla” M1 in engines that are very easy on the oil, and I doubt you are pushing them that hard either.

I still stand behind my belief that vanilla M1 is not going to give a lot of people as clean of an engine as they would get with M1 EP or ESP or Truck & SUV. Those are much better at keeping a higher stressed engine at its best.

We do have people on here who used vanilla M1 and still ended up with an oil burner, that was later solved with VRP.

 

[ammolab]

The OPs 2024 truck might well still be under warranty. Is 5W-30 M1 EP Dexos? I don’t think so. I understand it’s a million to one issue, but I always hesitated to put it my new Chevy.

Edit: I’m lame….looks like it is.

 

[tig1]

Just because you have seen those kind of results doesn’t mean everyone will. You have been running “vanilla” M1 in engines that are very easy on the oil, and I doubt you are pushing them that hard either.

I still stand behind my belief that vanilla M1 is not going to give a lot of people as clean of an engine as they would get with M1 EP or ESP or Truck & SUV. Those are much better at keeping a higher stressed engine at its best.

We do have people on here who used vanilla M1 and still ended up with an oil burner, that was later solved with VRP.

Generally oil burning is caused by coked rings and M1 oils will not coke rings at reasonable OCIs. I'm sure Valvoline makes fine products, but some here has turned their products into Snakeoil pandered by well meaning enthusiast. I've always said that if M1 goes out of business Valvoline is y next choice.

 

[Glenda W.]

As always it’s engine and condition dependent.

Heck we use to go 300k on conventional and syn blend. Blanket statements on any brand don’t fly anymore, even M1.

 

[FTTSHO]

M1 ESP 0W-30 with 5,000-7,500 mile OCI would be my choice.

 

[Patman]

Generally oil burning is caused by coked rings and M1 oils will not coke rings at reasonable OCIs. I'm sure Valvoline makes fine products, but some here has turned their products into Snakeoil pandered by well meaning enthusiast. I've always said that if M1 goes out of business Valvoline is y next choice.

I’m not knocking M1 oils in general, I am running it in both of my cars. I’m just saying that the extra few dollars that it costs to get EP, ESP, Truck & SUV is money well spent because they will keep engines cleaner than the basic M1 can.

And once again I don’t know if I’m misinterpreting what you’re saying but if you’re saying that VRP is snake oil and doesn’t do what it claims then you are badly misinformed here…

 

[altaylar]

So HPL spent the money to be dexos approved? Not being a jerk, but they don’t even have the starburst symbol. I’m not saying that it’s not great oil, because it is. But there’s a thread floating around that Mazda refused warranty over a few hundred miles past the OCI at a dealer. The last thing I’d wanna do is challenge GM on a warranty issue because Bitog says it’s good stuff. Buy a dexos oil that shows up on their website, save the receipts and be happy. When the OP can make darn sure there’s no motor issues then use hpl close to end of warranty.

There is also the fact that these certifications cost unbelievable amount of money. If you are not going to mass produce it, no way to recoup circa $1M you spend on a certification. So you will often find these not certificates, even though they are expected to surpass the certified counterparts on pretty much every measure

 

[OVERKILL]

There is also the fact that these certifications cost unbelievable amount of money. If you are not going to mass produce it, no way to recoup circa $1M you spend on a certification. So you will often find these not certificates, even though they are expected to surpass the certified counterparts on pretty much every measure

The certifications are typically undertaken by the additive pack supplier, so Infineum, Lubrizol, Afton...etc. So a blender can purchase an approved additive package and, blending it with an appropriate base oil/base oil combo, produce an approved product. HPL could certainly just buy an Infineum additive package, blend it in some Group III and produce an approved product, but that wouldn't improve the performance over any other product produced in that way.

So, the approach is, generally, to procure said additive package, blend it with a choice of premium base oils, then top-treat the product with additional additives (moly compounds and/or other FM's like titanium and tungsten) and, through testing, arrive at a final product that is higher quality. But of course this product no longer inherits the approval of the base additive package it was blended with.

 

[JunkdrawerDog]

As always it’s engine and condition dependent.

Heck we use to go 300k on conventional and syn blend. Blanket statements on any brand don’t fly anymore, even M1.

Have we, perhaps, reached a turning point in automotive evolution where turbocharging, GDI and increased power density have changed the game? A point where what we used to know as true, no longer is? It seems like modern TGDI engines combined with a severe service driving regimen require the best oil you can find to stave off engine problems. Hence, the proliferation of advanced formula and extended protection oils filling the shelves at Walmart. Those products don't show up without something driving the market.