Mobil 1 Advanced Clean is here

To be honest... I owned about 50 cars of all descriptions. None have ever burned any oil except perhaps an older Chevy where I ran them long distances at high speed. That amounted to 1/2 qt per oil change. Many had high mileage when I rolled them. I feel it more important to focus on frequent oil changes vs. the brand of lubricant. I my older MC I changed oil every 1500M until syn oil became available. I have a restored '69 Bonneville 650 and I run syn oil in that. I used to do oil analysis and found that regardless of the oil, fuel dilution happened. It's so cheap to change every 3500. I pay $16 a jug and buy factory filter in bulk. Total $21. With an oil change value, I am looking at 15 min.
I'm with you on oil & oil filter changes. Cheap insurance! As I told some people on another blog...my car, my cash = my choice. Prior to Mobil 1 synthetic I ran Castrol 20W-50 when that came out. Then Mobil 1 synthetic 5W-30. When I started all they had was plain 30 weight oil.
Now I may have to change my habit to 5000 miles or 6 months. I haven't been doing it every 6 months but every year or 5000 miles.
 
To be honest... I owned about 50 cars of all descriptions. None have ever burned any oil except perhaps an older Chevy where I ran them long distances at high speed. That amounted to 1/2 qt per oil change. Many had high mileage when I rolled them. I feel it more important to focus on frequent oil changes vs. the brand of lubricant. I my older MC I changed oil every 1500M until syn oil became available. I have a restored '69 Bonneville 650 and I run syn oil in that. I used to do oil analysis and found that regardless of the oil, fuel dilution happened. It's so cheap to change every 3500. I pay $16 a jug and buy factory filter in bulk. Total $21. With an oil change value, I am looking at 15 min.
That’s impressive! I do think there is an argument to be made now for using something like Supertech or Kirkland and watching closely for burning. At the first sign, switch to Valvoline Restore and Protect. It’s a bit of a gamble, but hard to argue with a good history like yours.
 
5 quart jugs for DIY is the way to go. Entire oil + filter change can be $20 total with a full synthetic Dexos oil.
Yup! Even if you buy Mobil 1 Extended Performance at walmart and a top tier 15-18 dollar filter your in it for what 50-70 bucks depending on sump capacity? Alotta folks i know will say yeah well i take mine in and its done in 15 minutes same price and i never get outa the car. Well i guarantee i did mine with better products than a quiklube
 
Yup! Even if you buy Mobil 1 Extended Performance at walmart and a top tier 15-18 dollar filter your in it for what 50-70 bucks depending on sump capacity? Alotta folks i know will say yeah well i take mine in and its done in 15 minutes same price and i never get outa the car. Well i guarantee i did mine with better products than a quiklube
In my case: Supertech High Mileage Full Synthetic 5W-30 + Super Tech Oil filter is about $20 total.
Put the car on ramps. Use breaker bar to undo drain plug, drain oil, replace oil filter, done so fast.
DIY is the way to go.
 
In my case: SuperTech High Mileage Full Synthetic 5W-30 + Super Tech Oil filter is about $20 total.
Put the car on ramps. Use breaker bar to undo drain plug, drain oil, replace oil filter, done so fast.
DIY is the way to go.

I'm thinking if you need a breaker bar for the drain plug then it's probably too tight. But I agree, DYI is the way.
 
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I'm thinking if you need a breaker bar for the drain plug then it's probably too tight. But I agree, DYI is the way.
I just use a breaker bar because it makes it easier with the extra leverage, but any rachet will suffice.
 
1.) One should not waste money buying oil at anywhere else but Walmart, unless boutique.
2.) What will an oil test tell us about it cleaning ability?
3.) the 100% claim is pretty bold, as was Valvoline: View attachment 310053
Agree clean 100% of what ! one part of the engine / the whole engine or when used only from new !.
Extremely bold statement.
 
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I just use a breaker bar because it makes it easier with the extra leverage, but any rachet will suffice.
Unless the threads are messed up, a socket with ratchet would have no advantage over a simple open-end or box-end wrench on any drain plug I ever saw. I do admit using a bare socket (without ratchet or any other kind of handle) to finish removing the loosened plug when it was too hot to handle directly with fingers.
 
I'm with you on oil & oil filter changes. Cheap insurance! As I told some people on another blog...my car, my cash = my choice. Prior to Mobil 1 synthetic I ran Castrol 20W-50 when that came out. Then Mobil 1 synthetic 5W-30. When I started all they had was plain 30 weight oil.
Now I may have to change my habit to 5000 miles or 6 months. I haven't been doing it every 6 months but every year or 5000 miles.
I've been using Walmart/Costco/Amazon oil for over 25 years. All made by Warren. Scope my engine, and as far as I can tell they've all looked perfect. If spending a lot for oil makes you happy, go for it. I wait until Costco puts it on sale and I buy 8 jugs and shipping is free.
 
to claim 100% on anything is bold for a company to advertise, was what I was saying
Yes, it is.
But if that was tested and they got proof of it. Then it's 100% legit.
You can prove them wrong if you test the oil the way they advertise it (at least 4 OCI). Then measure the percentage cleaned and find out if it's 100% or lower. That means to open apart your engine and took as many pictures as possible (particularly of pistons and piston rings) before and after the use of Valvoline Restore and Protect.
 
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