Mobil 1 4T vs Castrol 4T?

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Oct 3, 2017
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27
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California
Looking at some oil for my 04 Honda CBR600RR, I usually use Mobil-1 10W40 4T, recently the priced was raised, so naturally Castrol racing 4T came to mind at $8 a quart vs 10+ for mobil-1 nowadays. Only difference I could find is Mobil1 is rated API SN+ whereas the Castrol is API SL which is a older rating. Maybe I'm splitting hairs here..... especially since the bikes original rating was API SJ JASO 903 lol :D I'm pretty frugal and can't justify buying Motul 300v or 7100.
 
For a 17 year old bike, and you say you are frugal... why not Rotella 5w40 or Mobil 15w50?

I think Mobil 1 HM 10w40 would do you well also.
 
M1 10w40 4T is my choice. Stays in grade and maintains shift quality in my ZRX1200 for 5,000+ mile OCI’s. M1 20w50 V-Twin has gone in the sump also, holds grade and shift quality for 5,000+ miles as well.
That OCI is more or less a riding season for me, a couple bucks more a quart when changing once a year is less expensive than having shift quality fall off and changing more often.
 
IS the racing 4t mobil 1 is globally the same ingredient? I found a lot of packaging different and made from USA, Egypt.?
Do you guys know what is the base oil, I couldn't find any information about it on MSDS Is should have some hydrotreated oil?

"This material is defined as a mixture. Hazardous Substance(s) or Complex Substance(s) required for disclosure Name CAS# Concentration* GHS Hazard Codes C14-16-18 ALKYL PHENOL Confidential 0.1 - < 1% H317, H373 * All concentrations are percent by weight unless ingredient is a gas. Gas concentrations are in percent by volume. Other ingredients determined not to be hazardous up to 100%"

And from this link is say is PAO + some little ESter.

Thank you for information. https://bestsyntheticoilguide.com/synthetic/motorcycle-oil-review/
 
Wish I could help you there, but no knowledge about the formulation in different places of the world. However I will tell you what I purchase here in America is really good stuff and absolutely recommend it based on my UOA’s where a 10w40 oil is called for or desired. The way it holds viscosity and maintains shift quality tells me it’s a very good base oil.
 
+1 on M1 4T. Great stuff.
For 3 quarts + filter, you're looking at less than $40 per OCI. That's plenty reasonable.
 
If you can find it the Valvoline is a bit cheaper at Walmart which is what I'm currently running is their 10w40 in my Ninja 650.
 
I would definitely stay with M1 4T. I have found M1 oil in general improve the MPG compared to some other synthetics.
 
Only difference I could find is Mobil1 is rated API SN+ whereas the Castrol is API SL which is a older rating.
Both API SN and SL are current however API rating SL is for 2004 and older automotive engines where as SN was introduced in 2010 and designed to improve high temp deposits protection for pistons, more stringent sludge control in automotive engines... None of the API ratings ever mention motorcycle engines...
 
I should've mentioned that I'm using their full synthetic version, at the time Mobil 1 was the most expensive, next down the line in price was Super Tech, Valvoline FS, and then Castrol Actevo which is a blend. If cost is an issue you could try these other options. The Actevo is $6.32 but the M1 is basically 1.5x the cost at $9.97, the Valvoline is $7.99 and the Super Tech is $8.99.

I was using the Actevo after breaking it in with the Kawasaki oil which I didn't like but was still getting broken in so I switched to the Castrol which I liked much better but after awhile the shifting started getting notchy and sometimes while stopped it would get hung in between gears so you couldn't shift up or down but it did that even with the Kawasaki oil. I'm really liking the Valvoline, the shifting is smooth and slips right into gear and isn't notchy.
 
I should've mentioned that I'm using their full synthetic version, at the time Mobil 1 was the most expensive, next down the line in price was Super Tech, Valvoline FS, and then Castrol Actevo which is a blend. If cost is an issue you could try these other options. The Actevo is $6.32 but the M1 is basically 1.5x the cost at $9.97, the Valvoline is $7.99 and the Super Tech is $8.99.

I was using the Actevo after breaking it in with the Kawasaki oil which I didn't like but was still getting broken in so I switched to the Castrol which I liked much better but after awhile the shifting started getting notchy and sometimes while stopped it would get hung in between gears so you couldn't shift up or down but it did that even with the Kawasaki oil. I'm really liking the Valvoline, the shifting is smooth and slips right into gear and isn't notchy.
How long have you been running the Valvoline? New oil, syn or conv, will feel fine with respect to shifting. M1 10w40 4T has it in spades over Valvoline or Castrol, IMO and IME with respect to maintaining shift quality over the life of a 5,000 mile OCI and staying in grade.
 
How long have you been running the Valvoline? New oil, syn or conv, will feel fine with respect to shifting. M1 10w40 4T has it in spades over Valvoline or Castrol, IMO and IME with respect to maintaining shift quality over the life of a 5,000 mile OCI and staying in grade.
I've only been running it for around 1k miles and didn't even change the filter last time because the Castrol wasn't in there for very long either, maybe 2k to 2,500 but the bike has just over 5k miles so just getting broken in. I'm sure the M1 is a great oil but the Valvoline is a bit cheaper and also a full synthetic, I'd love to try the Shell but it goes for around $12 qt.

Mostly the issues I've had is when coming to a quick stop where you have to slow down very fast and depending where it's at in the gears when you go to take off again you can't get it in gear because it won't go in either direction. It seems to do better when I treat it like downshifting a vehicle where you let out on the clutch through each gear you shift down.
 
The Mobil 1 Racing 4T is good stuff. My ST1300 liked it and never had any shifting problems at all for 6000 miles, could have gone longer to Honda's recommended 8K OCI but I changed it at the end of the season.
I have also run Valvoline Syn, Castrol ActEvo and a Frankenbrew of all three in the ST1300 without issues.
 
I've only been running it for around 1k miles and didn't even change the filter last time because the Castrol wasn't in there for very long either, maybe 2k to 2,500 but the bike has just over 5k miles so just getting broken in. I'm sure the M1 is a great oil but the Valvoline is a bit cheaper and also a full synthetic, I'd love to try the Shell but it goes for around $12 qt.

Mostly the issues I've had is when coming to a quick stop where you have to slow down very fast and depending where it's at in the gears when you go to take off again you can't get it in gear because it won't go in either direction. It seems to do better when I treat it like downshifting a vehicle where you let out on the clutch through each gear you shift down.
I love your points are good ones. However being a synthetic oil on the label has little to do with what type of synthetic oil it is. Does that make sense? I don’t know of any of the major brands (Castrol, Valvoline, Lucas, others) (Motul, Redline and others do maintain shift quality like M1) that come close to maintaining shift quality over 5,000 miles or longer as has been described here. We’re talking two or three dollars a quart difference however I can find M1 on sale or on the Internet and thusly cheaper than Castrol, Valvoline etc. It’s good stuff and if (when) the others lose shift quality, probably be changing it more often.

In any case, 1,000 miles is not going to break most any oil of shift quality so look forward to how it continues for you. (y)
 
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