Mobil 1 10w-30; 10.5k miles; 1993 Volvo 240 347k

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This engine is a coveted L-block B230F. L was the last revision to the Volvo redblock. It added extra oil passages and piston squirters for added cooling. The engine exhibits no audible piston slap, even on the coldest of days.

The oil loss tends to run from the valve cover, cam-plug, and cam shaft oil seal. Making it a black-block, instead of a redblock. I do intend to replace said seals/gaskets in the near future.

Blackstone notes that the copper and lead numbers are high, and indicative of increased bearing wear. This was an unusually long interval for this engine. I will pull the next sample at 5K, to see if the Cu & Pb numbers are in-line with expected values.

Code:


Oil Mobil1 10w-30

MI on Oil 10478

MI on Engine 347648

Sample Date 9/15/2012

Make up oil 1 Qt



Aluminum 4

Chromium 0

Iron 11

Copper 13

Lead 22

Molybdenum 0

Nickel 101

Manganese 0

Silver 0

Titanium 0

Potassium 0

Boron 65

Silicon 9

Sodium 12

Calcium 2664

Magnesium 99

Phosphorus 706

Zinc 858

Barium 0



SUS Visc@210F 58.9

cSt Visc@100C 9.91

Flash pt (F) 410

Fuel %
Antifreeze % 0.0

Water % 0.0

Insolubles % 0.4

TBN 1.0


--
Ian, Dover, NH, USA
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Forgot to include Blackstone comment:
Quote:
Copper and lead read high in this sample showing a little extra bearing wear. Averages show how these (and other metals) should read after about 5,600 miles on the oil. The longer oil run shouldn't have done it. Maybe hard use or other operational factors explains it, or maybe the engine is bearing poorly for other reasons. Other metals look great and there was no contamination present in the oil that might be causing the wear, so as long as your oil pressure is okay, this is just something to watch. The TBN is low at 1.0, so stick with this interval for now.
 
Red Block is/was a great engine. I think, given the miles on it and the TBN result from your UOA, that I would shorten up your interval....7,500 is what I am doing on mine (again, turbo...and they're newer white-block engines)...and I find that number convenient because I can align it with other things (timing belts, transmission flushes, tire rotations, etc.)...an extra mile or two on the oil matters less to me than the time I spend under the car, so I prefer to group services together for efficiency...

I had a B21FT (earlier, turbo, variant of yours) and it truly was bullet-proof, but because of that turbo, I was changing the oil far more often...

347,000 is an impressive number...great to see it still on the road!
 
A testament to a remarkable engine. I'd stay closer to 5-6K OCI and a lighter weight - I worry about flame trap/oil separator cleanliness. Using RL 0W-30 (in the 240) to clean up after 74k of dino OC's and short trips. Seems to be working.
 
I think the 'moly' and the 'nickle' values are mixed up.

I'd say the results are good and the interval is perfect.
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
I think the 'moly' and the 'nickle' values are mixed up.

I'd say the results are good and the interval is perfect.


Good catch. I agree. Can the OP double check.
 
Originally Posted By: IRCwaves
Forgot to include Blackstone comment:
Quote:
Copper and lead read high in this sample showing a little extra bearing wear. Averages show how these (and other metals) should read after about 5,600 miles on the oil. The longer oil run shouldn't have done it. Maybe hard use or other operational factors explains it, or maybe the engine is bearing poorly for other reasons. Other metals look great and there was no contamination present in the oil that might be causing the wear, so as long as your oil pressure is okay, this is just something to watch. The TBN is low at 1.0, so stick with this interval for now.


You are better off ignoring B/S comments and their absurd universal averages.
 
although volvo used to make GREAT cars.

you got your car to very high milage which tells me as long as you make the intervals shorter, you should be just fine.

I ussualy only hear Toyota and Hondas getting this high into milage.

Good work!
 
If memory serves me, that is a seven main bearing crank?
The mileage may not be that high for the design, if it is.
I would lower the OCI a bit with the TBN reading.
Shooting for 500k?
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
I think the 'moly' and the 'nickle' values are mixed up.


Good catch. typographical error.

Originally Posted By: ChiTDI
If memory serves me, that is a seven main bearing crank?
The mileage may not be that high for the design, if it is.
I would lower the OCI a bit with the TBN reading.
Shooting for 500k?

Not really shooting for it, more like it's inevitable -- as long as I don't do something real dumb. I'll know how it is doing better after I adjust the valves. They're not real bad, but if there is any piston slap, it is quieter than normal valve train noise.

Yesterday I replaced the T-belt, tensioner, and all the front engine seals since it had been 85k for the cam seal (which failed) and the intermediate and crank seals pre-date my owning the car.
 
Originally Posted By: Voltmaster
although volvo used to make GREAT cars.

you got your car to very high milage which tells me as long as you make the intervals shorter, you should be just fine.

I ussualy only hear Toyota and Hondas getting this high into milage.

Good work!

OCI is going back to 7500ish. 'Round here Toyotas and Hondas die at 200k/13yrs from body rot. And the place is just stinking with abused 20+ year old Volvos. I am good to mine though.
 
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