Mobil 1 0w40 to RTS?

[Gilitar]

As the title says, I'm contemplating switching to Rotella Synthetic in my 08 Caliber SRT-4. I recently did some mild mods like the Mopar stage 1 upgrade and an intake. The car is now boosting 14 psi. What I don't like about the Mobil 1 is it's inability to stay in grade. I was doing some digging through the UOA's and it looks as if RTS would be hard beat. I plan on running a 5k mile interval. 50/50 driving. What do you guys think?

 

[silverrat]

Rotella is a good fit. Do you have any pictures of your Caliber? Exterior and engine bay would be cool to see.

 

[BobFout]

I'll play Devil's Advocate. Is the shearing of M1 0w40 causing an increase in wear?

RTS should stand up well since it does well in oil-chewing HEUI diesels.

 

[jstutz]

I agree, the 0w40 looks awesome on paper but it seems to sheer a bit and i have seen many UOAs with higher than normal iron levels. I know the topic has been discussed many times before about the iron, but im just not comfortable with it. The new rotella is more on the lighter side of the w40 scale than the older version. Personally, if it weren't on the higher side of price, i would run it in just about everything. I really like the new RTS. RTS has shown great UOAs and stays in grade well. I think it would be a great replacement to the 0w40.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I dont know how good the RTS is in producing power v. the M1. No 15% POE in the RTS = no power. Try and see how it works, I think youll loose the zing! factor. HDEO is usually smooth but no - "pull the trigger and haze the tyre" geddyup. C'mon man, all that money in upgrades but not the price of a 1/2 tank of petrol to run a killer oil like FUCHS Pro-S or MOTUL X-max or RL ?! Make the commitment.

 

[Gilitar]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I dont know how good the RTS is in producing power v. the M1. No 15% POE in the RTS = no power. Try and see how it works, I think youll loose the zing! factor. HDEO is usually smooth but no - "pull the trigger and haze the tyre" geddyup. C'mon man, all that money in upgrades but not the price of a 1/2 tank of petrol to run a killer oil like FUCHS Pro-S or MOTUL X-max or RL ?! Make the commitment.


I really don't believe that you would see anything beyond a couple of horsepower from one oil to the next within the same grade. I am more interested in wear to be honest.

 

[Gilitar]

Does anyone else have some input on this?

 

[BobFout]

I went from Amsoil DEO (old) to Mobil 1 0w40 and it sure felt peppier at all revs.

 

[Gilitar]

I'm also thinking about using Mobil 1 TDT 5w40. I just feel like something more shear stable would be better than the Mobil 1 0w40. Give me some feedback guys....

 

[BobFout]

Originally Posted By: Gilitar
I'm also thinking about using Mobil 1 TDT 5w40. I just feel like something more shear stable would be better than the Mobil 1 0w40. Give me some feedback guys....


I could missed the link, but you did do UOAs with M1 0w40?

 

[Gilitar]

Originally Posted By: BobFout
Originally Posted By: Gilitar
I'm also thinking about using Mobil 1 TDT 5w40. I just feel like something more shear stable would be better than the Mobil 1 0w40. Give me some feedback guys....


I could missed the link, but you did do UOAs with M1 0w40?


No UOA, information is based on multiple UOAs done by members. To me a true test is looking at a UOA in the VW 2.0t. If an oil can stand up it that engine it's a great oil.

 

[Gilitar]

 

[postjeeprcr]

Have you looked at Red Line 0W40 or 5W40?

 

[Gilitar]

Originally Posted By: postjeeprcr
Have you looked at Red Line 0W40 or 5W40?


Yes, it would be my first choice, but at $10+ a quart it's certainly affordable. I could buy M1 on sale and change it twice as often at that price.

 

[shpankey]

I know in my car 2.3 Direct Injected Turbo the Rotella T Synthetic is the most shear resistant. I've looked at a great many UOA's on it and it's practically the only one that doesn't shear down. It also consistently has some of the lowest wear numbers. A lot of us use it now. I recommend the T6 5w40 Rotella. It's what I'm using right now and I like you have modded my car.

Having said all that, I just bought some Redline 10w40 for my summer run. I have no doubt it's one of the best oils out there and I plan on running it over the summer. I'm actually pretty excited about it. It's expensive though so if it's out of your range I'd definitely recommend the T6 5w40 Rotella. Great oil and stout as [censored]!

 

[bluesubie]

I just saw a uoa from a WRX on the new T6 and it sheared to a high 30 grade in under 4k miles.

-Dennis

 

[BobFout]

Originally Posted By: bluesubie
I just saw a uoa from a WRX on the new T6 and it sheared to a high 30 grade in under 4k miles.

-Dennis


And the wear rate was affected by this?

 

[Gilitar]

Well, with Mobil 1 sales becoming regular it looks as if I can continue getting 5 quarts of Mobil 1 with a Mobil 1 filter for $29.99. I can't buy Rotella synthetic with a quality filter for this price. I have also decided on 4k mile OCI with my recent mods. Speaking of mods, man this thing is nasty with the Mopar Stage 1 and the intake. The car tries to rip the steering wheel at of my hands in 1st, 2nd and even 3rd at times. With a reported top speed of 165 mph, with the stage 1, in a 4cyl wagon I'm completely satisfied with performance of this car.

 

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted By: BobFout
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
I just saw a uoa from a WRX on the new T6 and it sheared to a high 30 grade in under 4k miles.

-Dennis


And the wear rate was affected by this?

Everything was pretty much the same except for tin increasing from zero to 2 ppm's (precursor to a turbo problem?). Of course, I do not know if the shearing played a factor.

What I do know, is that I just blew an OEM turbo with only 20k miles on it and my uoa's were fine. Not everything will show up in a uoa. Or maybe uoa interpretation is better left to the real experts.

-Dennis

 

[BobFout]

Originally Posted By: bluesubie
Originally Posted By: BobFout
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
I just saw a uoa from a WRX on the new T6 and it sheared to a high 30 grade in under 4k miles.

-Dennis


And the wear rate was affected by this?

Everything was pretty much the same except for tin increasing from zero to 2 ppm's (precursor to a turbo problem?). Of course, I do not know if the shearing played a factor.

What I do know, is that I just blew an OEM turbo with only 20k miles on it and my uoa's were fine. Not everything will show up in a uoa.

-Dennis


2 ppm is within the margin of error, and near enough to zero to be zero.

There are many reasons why a turbo could blow (overboost, surge, overspeeding, FOD, heat damage). Very rarely would those issues show up in UOA.

What did the postmortem analysis show?