Minimizing emissions - which oil or additives?

[kaborka]

My truck has started to smoke a bit at idle. I haven't run a compression check to diagnose it yet, but that's on my agenda. I'm hoping to get one more successful CA smog check out of it before a rebuild, and I'm wondering what effect switching to a synthetic oil would have on the emissions test. I haven't studied the chemistry of synthetics, but would they reduce HC emissions if the engine is consuming oil? Are there any additives that might do so? I was considering Bardahl No-Smoke as a temporary measure.

 

[Quest]

lol! If smoking is what you want to temporarily reduced (visable ones, not the actual ones), try "mechanics in a can", "motor hunny" or "AssssTeeeePeeee".

If root of the matter is what you want to pursue, tune ups, engine rebuild and/or cat converter replacement shall do you justice.

 

[Thatwouldbegreat]

There's not much info in your post about the year, make, model, and mileage of the truck.

So there's not much to help us figure out where the smoke is coming from [ Valve Guides? Rings? ]

I've discovered that sometimes an engine has life left in it, or is in much better shape than I thought. A good cleaning of the engine internals, regular fuel injector cleaning, and the right oil ~can~ make a difference.

I've had good luck with using either Auto RX or Lube Control LC 20 in the oil to clean the engine up a bit.

I've also had good luck with running a good fuel injector cleaner like Chevron Techron, Redline SI-1, or Gumout Regane. Sometimes a double dose or two treatments in two tankfuls of gas can really help.

And another good trick would be to go to a thicker oil like a 10W-40, 15W-40, or 20W-50.

And top synthetics like Redline, or even less expensive synthetics like Pennzoil Platinum, Mobil 1, Shell Rotella Synthetic, Castrol Syntec, or even a 'high mileage' oil like Valvoline Maxlife ........ can make a difference.

 

[TimVipond]

I've heard a fresh oil change before testing and a bottle of this https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g1135_rev2_07.pdf will help.

• Reduced emissions
• hydrocarbons (HC) up to 15%
• carbon monoxide (CO) up to 26%
• nitrous oxides (NOx) up to 17%

 

[kaborka]

It's an 86 Ranger with a EFI V6. I'm suspecting worn valve guides. I'm doing a tuneup this weekend, and the compression check should reveal whether it's rings or valve seals. It could just be a PCV valve sucking too much oil into the intake. I'll see how it does with a new one. If I need to tear into the engine, I won't be able to do that till the Fall.

My original question was, would using synthetic produce less HC emissions than dino oil, giving that some oil is getting into the cylinders? I was hoping someone would know for sure the answer to that.

(PS: I'm new to these forums. Is there a "subscribe" function available to get notified of new posts? If so, where?)

 

[Thatwouldbegreat]

Quote:

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My original question was, would using synthetic produce less HC emissions than dino oil, giving that some oil is getting into the cylinders? I was hoping someone would know for sure the answer to that.

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I think some synthetics like Redline can help keep oil out of the cylinders.

Also, don't rule out Restore... it can work, IMHO Not everyone on BITOG will agree with me. But as a last resort you could try it.

 

[kaborka]

Actually, I should rephrase the question: Do synthetics produce less HC when burned, if I can't prevent the engine from burning oil without doing more repairs than I can get done before the smog test?

 

[Thatwouldbegreat]

Quote:

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Actually, I should rephrase the question: Do synthetics produce less HC when burned, if I can't prevent the engine from burning oil without doing more repairs than I can get done before the smog test?

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I doubt that is possible... if oil is burned the result should be similar whether it is conventional or synthetic.

Don't overlook what I said in my first post...sometimes Auto Rx, LC-20, thicker oil, synthetic oil, Restore...or stuff like Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil can make a difference...sometimes a big difference.

 

[kaborka]

Thanks. Sorry my question wasn't clear. I've used Seafoam and injector cleaner in the engine. I'll put in an additive to reduce the leakage before I do the test. I'm hoping it will pass, so I can do the proper repairs later.

Edit: I found the edit function trick!

 

[Thatwouldbegreat]

I think another trick you might look into is adding a 5% slug of isopropyl alcohol or a specialized emmission reduction additive.

Here are some other tips:
How to Pass Your Emissions Test


Written By: James Halderman
Published In: Environment News
Publication Date: April 1, 1999
Publisher: The Heartland Institute


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Sinclair Community College professor James Halderman offers Environment News readers the following tips for passing a vehicle emissions test.

1. Test your vehicle on a nice day only--avoid very cold or windy days. Cold weather requires that the engine be run longer for the coolant, oil, and catalytic converter to reach and maintain optimum operating temperature.

2. Make sure your battery is in good condition. A weak or low-voltage battery causes many fuel-injected engines to run rich (use too much fuel).

3. Change engine oil before having the vehicle tested. Dirty or contaminated oil increases exhaust emissions.

4. Use premium gasoline to help reduce nitrogen oxide (Nox) emissions.

5. Do not overfill the gas tank. After the nozzle clicks off, add no more than a dime’s worth of fuel. If the tank is overfilled, liquid gasoline can be drawn into the engine through the canister purge system.

6. Drive at least 20 miles before having the vehicle tested.

7. Arrive at the test center with only a quarter- to a half-tank of gasoline.

8. While waiting for the inspection, place the gear selector in “park” or “neutral,” and keep the engine running at fast idle (about 2500 rpm).

9. Before testing begins, turn the air conditioning/heating or defroster to the off position.


Other Tips from the Experts

1. Be sure your tires are in good condition and inflated to the maximum pressure stated on the side of the tires.

2. Know whether your car is front- or rear-wheel drive, and watch to see that the test workers put the driving wheels on the rollers.

3. Ask to see that the dynamometer settings are correct for your make, model, and year of vehicle.

4. Watch to see that the parking brake is not engaged.

5. Watch to see that the vehicle operator does not use rapid acceleration or braking. Remember: It is your car, and you are entitled to this information and to observe the test process from a designated safe location. If you suspect your car may have sustained damage, file a complaint and drive to your preferred auto repair facility for an inspection.

http://www.heartland.org/Article.cfm?artId=13139

 

[kaborka]

I was thinking of getting some E85 and putting it in there, to further reduce emissions. I think some of the fuel stabilizers have anhydrous isopropyl in them. I'd be concerned about adding a isopropyl-water blend. Thanks for the tips!

 

[kaborka]

The old truck passed the smog check. HC emissions were only 49ppm out of a max 108 at 25mph on the dyno, and even better at 15mph. This surprised me, since I'm still getting visible smoke at idle (despite the pint of Bardahl I put in). The compression checked at a solid 195psi on all 6, and the PCV valve is new. Must be leaky valve seals or a gasket leak somewhere. Guess its time for a valve job.