Militec-1 vs CLP observations

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Unfortunately I don't have any scientific ASTM style tests or results to produce, but here are my observations (feel free to comment or add to the discussion).

*Cleaning*
Break Free CLP seems to work OK as a cleaner, but it's about $4/aerosol can and gets expensive. I've only cleaned my rifle about 3-4 times and 1 can was depleted. I found WD-40 to work better to clean out the primer salts near my fire control group (trigger, hammer, etc...) or rather blast out the primer salts as well as provide some lubrication for the rotating parts.
Break Free CLP does nothing for copper fouling, but because of the finish used on my rifle - I cannot use super strong copper removing agents, I'm told it shouldn't affect my style rifle a whole lot due to its design (RPK).

Militec-1 is not a cleaner, this is according to the Militec people.

*Lubricating*

I initially used CLP to lubricate the action and all moving parts as well as the barrel. The bolt slid in/out with some effort, I figured it was just so new but it wasn't so.

I squirted some Militec-1 on the rails, moving parts, etc... then wiped it off. Militec wants you to use a hairdryer or put the rifle under the sun so that the synthetic metal conditioners soak into the metal or something like that. I just wiped it off and left it as is. The action was so much smoother!!

In the rifle bore - CLP wiped off after the 2nd patch (first patch was to remove excess, 2nd patch was used to wipe it further) whereas with Militec-1, on the 4th and 5th patches you will find only trace amounts. This tells me Militec-1 is thicker and probably adheres to the metal a lot better.

*Preservative*

Militec claims the Secret Service uses their products for all their firearms and corrosion is not a problem. I've heard on more than 1 occaison that firearms rust using Militec-1 due to the lack of corrosion protection.

CLP, OTOH, is only second to Eezox in corrosion protection.

Unless you live in a salt-water environment or near the beach, I wouldn't think too much of this. Any ideas?

*Dust/Sand/Grit attraction*

I didn't notice too much grit being attracted to the fluids when cleaning the rifle, but remember my test using Militec-1 on my engine block parts that see a lot of dust? There's not a whole lot where I used Militec-1. I've used WD-40, NuFinish, and other protectants and there's always a fine layer of dirt/dust/grit on that same surface (even tho I wiped the excess). Not so with Militec-1.
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I have a 0.24 oz sample of FP-10, Break Free CLP, and Militec-1.

I'm going to the range soon and my rifle will have been treated with Militec-1. I've already gone to the range using CLP so I'll see how it stacks up. My next step is to try the FP-10 in the bore.

This is far from scientific but these are just my observations, please feel free to share your experience(s) as they're most likely more than mine.
 
I found a rusty nail, sanded/polished it with 2000 grit sandpaper, and applied CLP.

I left it outside in the rain - in the morning I found that a nicy layer of rust formed wherever it was soaked with MI acid rain.

I'm going to test out FP-10, Militec-1, and RemOil as soon as I find more nails.
 
Yeah, anything new?
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sorry I didnt reply earlier. I thought I posted something about my other test?

Well, ATF and CLP provided the most corrosion protection over everything else.

WD-40, Militec-1, FP-10, etc... didn't do much for protection. The nails treated with ATF and CLP looked brand new after a 5 hour soak.
 
Remeber that CLP was designed for use on Military weapons. A M16 has an aluminum upper that is parkerizered/Phosphate coated then sealed with a nickle top coat. THe remaining parts are wither parkerized or chromed. THe chamber and bore are chrome plated as well. The protection needed by these types of weapons is different then what you might need for a blued chromoly hunting rifle or that horrable SS 416R used by most gun maker. For the most part 416R is not very stain resistant at all and should be treated like a blued weapon. 416 SS is marginal at best and resulferizeing it to make it easy to machine does not help it out in any way! The SS barrels used in mass produced rifles are actualy weaker in a number of ways from their chromemolly brothers.

Their are custom melts used by some companys that truly deliver. One such custom SS melt that is a real step up is the custom melt Ruger is useing in their 454 Calsul and their 480 Ruger Super RedHawks. It is significantly stronger then any other steel being used by any of the OTC weapon makers.
 
Are you sure the M16 receivers are nickel coated???

My AR15 uppers have a baked on moly-dry lube (black)....
 
Yes and it is not a nickle coating like electroless nickle. Some type of sealing coating that is nickle based. I will try to find the MIl-Spec. for it.
 
Great Forum
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Glad I got to check it out. I tried to catch up on past posts. Looks like I will get some CLP
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I have probably about half dozen rifles, same with shotguns, 8 hand guns and shoot about 50 rounds/yeat-total. All my long guns are hand me downs and I have made a New-Years resolution to clean and oil them. Sounds like CLP will fill the bill.

Now my hand guns..different story. My 3 Autos sometimes get cleaned twice and fired once
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Anyway has anyone tried this??
 -

The stuff is ubelievably expensive, but a fishing budy uses it for his reels. He is a total perfectionist and swears by it. I us it on the slides of my autos but I am not really someone who would be able to tell the difference. I am not an avid shooter.

I have put the stuff on door latch plates and it is the best lub-bar none -that I have ever seen.
 
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