Metal in 6L90 drain pan, Express van

[clinebarger]

You need to do the Clutch Select Valves/TCC Regulator valve kit 6L8 CS-TCC & the O-ringed Bore Plugs 6L8-VBPLUGS as well, The Tow & Pro Reprogramming Kit comes with all 3 kits in one.

Highly Recommended! As is a good billet front converter & Tuning.

 

[Chris142]

If it was a 727 Chrysler I would say tackle it. But not with a computerized late model trans with that many gears. There is too much that can be worn out.

Besides sourcing those parts you also need to know what to look for.

I rebuilt a th350 many years ago. I had it in and out of the car 3x before I gave up and took it to a transmission shop. They never did tell me what was the problem.

 

[Hank3band]

Just wanted to follow up on this thread. The used transmission finally arrived from Fastenal shipment. Got it home and on my bench. Heavy SOB. Looks good from the outside. Is this a OEM GM torque converter? Got the Transgo tow and pro kit also. Any advice before I start to open it up?

 

[clinebarger]

It's a remanufactured torque converter, GM does not paint new OE converters.

GM has torque converters rebuilt by a 3rd party & they're no better/worse than anyone else.

Bottom line....Stock JBMX Converters are TRASH, Hopefully you'll get a few years out of it & it doesn't have a ton of miles on it already.

Pull the pan, If you find metal near the filter intake.....The converter has already failed & no sense installing it.

TransGo has the best instructions in the business, But if you have questions....Feel free to ask.

 

[Hank3band]

I pulled the pan tonight. Here is what the fluid, filter, and inside the pan looks like. Nothing like the glitter bomb that was my original transmission. A little bit of metal on top of the filter. What do you think? Time to replace the converter?

If I do replace the converter now, what is a good vendor and model to replace it with? Circle D? Precision of New Hampton is close to me but I don't know if they will sell direct to me. Any input is appreciated here. Hard to find specifics. Everyone says go billet but what is a good one for a stockish application?

 

[clinebarger]

This is just a educated guess.....A remanufactured converter was installed because the original converter failure was caught early (ish).

Where's the magnet?

With the clutch debris in the pan....I'm concerned that the 4-5-6 Clutch is burnt.

This is what a healthy 100,000 6L80E looks like.....

 

[paulo57509]

For reference, this is the debris that burnt clutches (3-4) leave behind ('03 4L60E). This stuff gets everywhere.

 

[Hank3band]

Clinebarger, thank you for your continued helpful input. I posted the same pictures to the Facebook 6l80E/90E group and got 3 responses of "it's junk". They weren't much help. Standard FB stuff.

If I go in to replace the 4,5,6 clutch pack, should I just buy the rebuild kit and do the whole thing? Pretty bummed out but I guess I shouldn't be knowing the track record of these transmissions in stock form.

The other thing I was thinking was, this used transmission came out of a collision damaged van. It would have been driven prior to the accident. So it should have been working. Is it just close to failing now ?

 

[clinebarger]

It needs completely disassembled & inspected....Patching these units rarely works long term.

I have no doubt it was still pulling/shifting, But it doesn't have much life left.

 

[Hank3band]

Finally getting back to this. Pull it apart to center snap ring. Also pull apart the bellhousing and pump. Pump surface has a gouge in it.

Should I buy new pump and bellhousing? Or get it machined? Any recommendations for machining service?

Rock Auto has a new AC Delco stator for $200... On the bellhousing I can't scratch my finger on the surface like the stator surface is...

 

[Hank3band]

Further disassembly pictures. Bell housing under the rotor and a steel friction from the 456 clutch

 

[meep]

I applaud your perseverance and willingness to try and learn along the way. While i can’t add anything technical here, I would if I could, just out of respect for your effort.

 

[MacManus99]

Well said. Most people don't have the balls to dive into a transmission and learn as they go. Myself included. Good on you. Glad I followed this thread!

 

[Hank3band]

Glad to hear you guys are enjoying the thread. I always enjoy when someone documents the process and follows through to the end. So the thread is motivation for me to see this one through.

First two pictures show proof that I got the giant snap ring out. That was an adventure.

I was looking closer at the steels for the 456 clutch and you can definitely see heat issues. Third picture attached to this post shows a close up.

Today I ordered a new torque converter from Precision of New Hampton, model # 4646. Research showed they are one of the best and in-state for me. So got that coming. I drained the old one and sent it back for a core. Not a single flake of glitter in the drain pan. The old one must have just started flaking clutch material. I haven't seen much evidence inside the transmission of glitter either. So a much better core to start with than my original total failure transmission.

Found a transmission shop in Arkansas through the 6l80 FB group that will sell me a loaded bellhousing with pump and components that has been machined flat. Seems like a good option for a first timer like myself. I know the rotor comes in different thicknesses based on clearance between stator and bellhousing. I could measure the clearance after getting mine machined but drop in seems like a good choice. Let them figure clearance and hopefully load the pump to the stator similar to the factory procedure.

 

[Hank3band]

Input housing. This seems like a problem. Got really hot at some point.

 

[clinebarger]

Pump Cover/Stator & Bellhousing need replaced, I highly recommend buying NEW Delco parts & assembling it yourself.....I see to many issues with "Rebuilt/Surfaced parts"

Checking Pump Rotor & Slide clearance is pretty straight forward using a Plastigage.....
*Use the original Pump Rotor/Slide & check the clearance installed it the new Stator & Bellhousing....This will give you a good idea what thickness Rotor you need.

*24042371....17.948MM-17.961MM thick, Corresponding Slide.....24222668
*24042372....17.961MM-17.974MM thick, Corresponding Slide.....24224131
*24042373....17.974MM-17.987MM thick, Corresponding Slide.....24224132

 

[clinebarger]

You can either buy a Pump Alignment tool or carefully align it using a small straight edge.....The Stator has one alignment dowel to make this pretty easy.

 

[Hank3band]

Further disassembly pictures. Bell housing under the rotor and a steel friction from the 456 clutch

Correction: The steel and fiber is out of the 3,5,R clutch.

 

[clinebarger]

Input housing. This seems like a problem. Got really hot at some point.

Unfortunately....I knew this was the case, When the original converter shelled, The debris clogged the filter causing a drop in Line Pressure & the 4-5-6 Clutch is the weakest holding member.

That Hub can be cleaned up with Solvent, Scotchbrite pad, & some elbow grease. Of coarse the Apply & Compensator Pistons will need to be replaced!!! Along with the Frictions, Steels, & maybe the Backing Plate (Part# 24240654).

 

[Hank3band]

Unfortunately....I knew this was the case, When the original converter shelled, The debris clogged the filter causing a drop in Line Pressure & the 4-5-6 Clutch is the weakest holding member.

That Hub can be cleaned up with Solvent, Scotchbrite pad, & some elbow grease. Of coarse the Apply & Compensator Pistons will need to be replaced!!! Along with the Frictions, Steels, & maybe the Backing Plate (Part# 24240654).

Thanks for the reply. Any tips for compressing the return spring when replacing those pistons? I am willing to buy a small press. Any suggestions?