Mercedes Benz M276.8 oil choice process

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Jul 19, 2024
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Hi everyone, I own two 2015 MB C400s. These cars use the 3L twin turbo variant of the Mercedes M276 engine (most nice OBDII scanners will call it an M276.8).

Now both of my cars are the same model, but their use cases (and possibly maintenance requirements) have diverged a bit.

My car only has 66K miles on it, it's tuned for about 480hp (on E30 blend which I don't always run on the street) and I do about 10-20 quarter mile passes a year. I've owned it for 3 years

My wife's car has nearly 130K miles on it and is stock. It's a highway warrior racking up most of its miles up and down the Atlantic seaboard and I-95 corridor. We've owned it for 7 years.

Under my care both cars have only ever had Castrol Edge Euro 5w40 changed annually (mine is usually at 7500miles hers is usually at 12K) with a MB filter.

I'm thinking of moving to a different lubrication solution for each.


Items to consider:
1. These engines are quad cam, with a single roller chain for each head, one for the oil pump, and one for the crank to an intermediate gear... so lots of shearing probably.
2. Two turbos (they get HOT)
3. Gasoline direct injection (though I don't think LSPI is a major issue for this motor)

What I want:

1) Oil for my wife's car capable of longer OCI, say 18 mos. (Is that even possible/desirable?)

2) A system of oils for my car that would let me run a more race oriented oil for September October(could be almost a straight weight since ambient temps rarely go below 50F) and then switch to a normal Euro style oil for the other ten months without fear of additive clash.
So what oils am I buying?
 
Welcome to BITOG 🎉

Use the cheapest oil that meets the required standards. If M1 0w40 carries the approval you need, just use that. It's a good price at Walmart, and 0w40 is reasonably common on the track too :)
 
Either option for year round. No reason to mess around with unnecessary seasonal changes on these oils.

I've considered HPL, just not sure on the product line.

I'm not sure where I said I do seasonal oil changes...
 
Welcome to BITOG 🎉

Use the cheapest oil that meets the required standards. If M1 0w40 carries the approval you need, just use that. It's a good price at Walmart, and 0w40 is reasonably common on the track too :)
Since I want to go about 8-10,000 miles beyond the MB 229.5 specification (which is mostly focused on lowering fuel consumption and not so much wear prevention) I don't really consider that a relevant spec for this discussion.

I know a LOT of Euro drag racers, none of them run 0w40 on applications making +40% more horsepower than stock.
 
I've considered HPL, just not sure on the product line.

I'm not sure where I said I do seasonal oil changes...
You mentioned a fill for sept-oct then something else for the rest of the year. No need to mess with that. Contact HPL and see what they recommend. The fly in the ointment is going to be the ethanol.
 
Since I want to go about 8-10,000 miles beyond the MB 229.5 specification (which is mostly focused on lowering fuel consumption and not so much wear prevention) I don't really consider that a relevant spec for this discussion.

I know a LOT of Euro drag racers, none of them run 0w40 on applications making +40% more horsepower than stock.
So you want to go 18-20k oci's? I wouldn't do that.
 
You mentioned a fill for sept-oct then something else for the rest of the year. No need to mess with that. Contact HPL and see what they recommend. The fly in the ointment is going to be the ethanol.
In Sep-Oct when the weather is good I typically go to the drag strip every weekend, I'll do anywhere from 2-4 passes each trip. I think it's prudent to use a more robust oil that is on a fresh change for that time period when a car is using higher ethanol fuel and making +40% more power than stock.

I'm just concerned about additive clash switching back and forth.
 
Since I want to go about 8-10,000 miles beyond the MB 229.5 specification (which is mostly focused on lowering fuel consumption and not so much wear prevention) I don't really consider that a relevant spec for this discussion.

I know a LOT of Euro drag racers, none of them run 0w40 on applications making +40% more horsepower than stock.

Does the tuner offer any recommendation? Is it a well-known tuner? :unsure:

And for your wife's stock daily driver, please don't exceed the factory OCI suggestions. If you do, get a UOA done and post pictures of the used filter ;)

FWIW, M-B's OCI algorithm mostly goes by the amount of fuel used.
 
My thought is that the cost of a couple oil changes even with boutique oils is much cheaper than the potential mechanical issues. MM OCI would be my max, probably sooner.

Somewhere on the ounce of prevention..... or penny wise..... especially if you are working them hard.
 
In Sep-Oct when the weather is good I typically go to the drag strip every weekend, I'll do anywhere from 2-4 passes each trip. I think it's prudent to use a more robust oil that is on a fresh change for that time period when a car is using higher ethanol fuel and making +40% more power than stock.

I'm just concerned about additive clash switching back and forth.

You think 12second WOT requires more robust oil?
50 grade is allowed for M276 but don't see how that would achieve desired result.

Dragsters use stupid thin oil, it never reaches high temp.
 
Since I want to go about 8-10,000 miles beyond the MB 229.5 specification (which is mostly focused on lowering fuel consumption and not so much wear prevention) I don't really consider that a relevant spec for this discussion.

I know a LOT of Euro drag racers, none of them run 0w40 on applications making +40% more horsepower than stock.
Wait - MB 229.5 is many things, but focused on fuel consumption? Really? When 5W40s and 20W50s are MB 229.5?

Where are you getting this idea?

MB 229.5 has a rather high HTHS minimum and long drain requirement. It is one of the more robust MB requirements.


Your Benz would do very well on an MB 229.5, and that is exactly what your manual specifies. You can, depending on temperature, run up to a 20W50, according to your manual, shown below. Hardly “focused on fuel economy”.

Moreover - you have not done any analysis to support your supposition of shearing. I have run the Mobil 1 0W40 for 10,000 miles and it is a good choice. Personally, for long drain, with robust TBN and stable viscosity, I would recommend HPL 5W40 supercar.
See how well it did on a 10,000 mile run in my twin turbo Benz.


IMG_0310.jpg
 
Wait - MB 229.5 is many things, but focused on fuel consumption? Really? When 5W40s and 20W50s are MB 229.5?

Where are you getting this idea?

MB 229.5 has a rather high HTHS minimum and long drain requirement. It is one of the more robust MB requirements.


Your Benz would do very well on an MB 229.5, and that is exactly what your manual specifies. You can, depending on temperature, run up to a 20W50, according to your manual, shown below. Hardly “focused on fuel economy”.

Moreover - you have not done any analysis to support your supposition of shearing. I have run the Mobil 1 0W40 for 10,000 miles and it is a good choice. Personally, for long drain, with robust TBN and stable viscosity, I would recommend HPL 5W40 supercar.
See how well it did on a 10,000 mile run in my twin turbo Benz.


View attachment 231214

With respect to the previous spec of MB 229.3, yes, 229.5 is absolutely an oil that requires better fuel mileage than it's predecessor.

See this thread: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/the-mb-229-5-specs.2402/

As to my "supposition" on shearing... Is it your supposition that an engine with 7 toothed timing gears, 4 timing chains, and two hot turbos WON'T put a mechanical and heat shear load on the engine oil?
You think 12second WOT requires more robust oil?
50 grade is allowed for M276 but don't see how that would achieve desired result.

Dragsters use stupid thin oil, it never reaches high temp.
Give me a little credit (it's 11 seconds and change ;) ).

And yes I do, due to the way the MB ECU works, operating fluid temps need to be above a certain level or you just go into open loop and the ECU doesn't take as many sensor's data into consideration. At the end of a pull it's HOT.

Yes top fuel/funny car/pro mod dragsters use quite thin oil, most of them are also custom blended for their application, they also don't (usually) have twin turbos and a dozen toothed sprockets and timing chains. Dragsters usually also run fuels that cool the charge air much cooler than my Eth/pump gas blend (especially since it DI), when PI turbo cars switch over to methanol they can usually ditch intercoolers entirely.

Oh, and most Dragsters don't drive to and home from the track...
 
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HPL super car 5w-40. run it for 12k then send a sample off. after receiving data, determine if you can go 18-20k miles.
 
In Sep-Oct when the weather is good I typically go to the drag strip every weekend, I'll do anywhere from 2-4 passes each trip. I think it's prudent to use a more robust oil that is on a fresh change for that time period when a car is using higher ethanol fuel and making +40% more power than stock.

I'm just concerned about additive clash switching back and forth.
Remember your oil never gets hot enough on the drag strip to shear.
 
And yes I do, due to the way the MB ECU works, operating fluid temps need to be above a certain level or you just go into open loop and the ECU doesn't take as many sensor's data into consideration. At the end of a pull it's HOT.

Oh, and most Dragsters don't drive to and home from the track...

Define HOT. And you driving it back home is great, hopefully burns of any fuel dilution it might have accumulated.
 
Remember your oil never gets hot enough on the drag strip to shear. Top fuel cars are running 20 grades. HPL has a lot of customers in that arena.
Yes, it absolutely, unequivocally does. The car is very near normal MB operating temp when I roll through the burnout pits. On the top end my turbos are trying to flow +40% more air than they were designed for, that in turn requires a TON of heat/energy in the exhaust to spin the turbine wheel. WHich means every drop of oil that goes through the center section of each turbo is getting HOT.

Please stop comparing my street driven daily to purpose build top fuel cars... it's an absolute fools errand.
 
Define HOT. And you driving it back home is great, hopefully burns of any fuel dilution it might have accumulated.
Turbo center section components can reach ~1500-1800F. When I pop the hood when I get back to the pits it's like opening a blast oven.
 
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