MDX coolant problem

[Boss302fan]

Got it back on Thursday after having the transmission and radiator replaced because the radiator cooler line failed due to corrosion and inturn mixed transmission fluid and coolant and the transmission then failed.

Drove it for a few hours Friday and everything seemed fine and then thought I would check everything out fluid wise Saturday morning. Noticed that the transmission fluid level looked good and was clean and right at the full level.

Then checked the radiator overflow bottle and saw that the coolant was very dark almost black/red-should be clean blue coolant... Oh nuts. Then took the radiator cap off and saw a very brown/red gunk thick fluid under the cap. Guessing that they obviously did not flush out the cooling system sufficiently when all the old radiator transmission/cooler let go that caused the original transmission to fail and got old transmission fluid and coolant mixed into the cooling system

I have a call in and hopefully they will take it in Monday and finally flush out ALL the crud and get it right... I am hoping they did not ruin anything by not flushing it enough. They stated on the invoice that it was flushed several times but I seem to doubt that... Can I drive this MDX without causing more damage?

Could anything get ruined by me driving this vehicle? Could the heater core and new radiator be ruined? Any engine/coolant seals/water pump, etc be messed up because of the transmission fluid in the coolant passages? Any way to make sure they clean this clean out right? Thanks...

Big question is can I drive this MDX without damaging anything else?

 

[UNC017]

The biggest risk is that most coolants, when mixed with oil, form a kind of gritty paste. This even happens with zero-silicate coolants like DexCool.

Now the gritty paste isn't thick enough to clog cooling passages, ruin the heater core, or anything like that- but it probably can shorten water pump seal life.

If it were mine, this is one of the (rare) cases where I'd use a chemical flush. Even after a chemical flush,I'd consider running a surfactant like Redline Water Wetter for a few months, then doing yet another flush (no chemicals this time).

Its also a case where it would be VERY beneficial to remove all the block drain plugs, or pop out the lower frost plugs and then replace them to get all the last of the flushing byproducts out.

Bottom line- its HARD to get oil out of a cooling system once its gotten in there. Been there, done that. The good news is the car where that happened to me lived on to 450,000 miles, so its certainly not terminal. But the incident (which happened at maybe 120,000 miles) ultimately shortened the life of the transmission (failed at ~ 160,000 miles) and the water pump that was on the engine at the time.

 

[Boss302fan]

Thanks. It is at the Acura dealer getting another flush. Over flow bottle was dirty and under the radiator cap was about a tablespoon of sludge material. Otherwise, under the sludge was clean blue coolant. Does not seem to be a lot of transmission fluid left in system. Will check again after some driving and can do a few rad drain and fills myself. Thanks.

Only use the Acura/honda fluid or is there another silicate free coolant that I can find easiar at Walmart or Advance auto, etc?

 

[UNC017]

Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
Thanks. It is at the Acura dealer getting another flush. Over flow bottle was dirty and under the radiator cap was about a tablespoon of sludge material. Otherwise, under the sludge was clean blue coolant. Does not seem to be a lot of transmission fluid left in system. Will check again after some driving and can do a few rad drain and fills myself. Thanks.

Only use the Acura/honda fluid or is there another silicate free coolant that I can find easiar at Walmart or Advance auto, etc?


As I understand it, both Zerex and Peak make phosphate-HOAT (P-HOAT) Asian car formulas. Not owning an Asian car, I can't vouch for them one way or the other.

 

[Dan55]

If you are not under warranty and want to monitor transmission fluid contamination. Change to a lighter fluid color temporarily. The Honda type II is too dark to readily monitor cotamination and Peak or Prestone All Makes Models will suit you short term. Then when its clean go back to Honda typeII . Concentrate is availabile Here http://www.bernardiparts.com/Honda-Anti-...OL999-9020.aspx

 

[Boss302fan]

Originally Posted By: Dan55
If you are not under warranty and want to monitor transmission fluid contamination. Change to a lighter fluid color temporarily. The Honda type II is too dark to readily monitor cotamination and Peak or Prestone All Makes Models will suit you short term. Then when its clean go back to Honda typeII . Concentrate is availabile Here http://www.bernardiparts.com/Honda-Anti-...OL999-9020.aspx


I have ordered from them in the past. Good dealer and pretty quick ship.

Most likely I may order some of the regular Honda coolant and slowly keep checking my overflow tank and under the rad cap after it sits overnight.

May try spooning out the little bit of crud that sits under the cap and then top off with a spash of honda coolant. After cooling off overnight, the oil settles right under ther cap and is only about a tablespoon or so. Maybe I got lucky and they got most of it out. I'll keep checking it very few days and stay on top of it. Thanks.

 

[Boss302fan]

Think I got it all cleaned up. No more signs of atf showing up under the rad cap or in the overflow tank. I just removed and cleaned out the puke tank a few times. Thanks guys...