Ok im buying an 03 explorer sport trac from my uncle that has a 140000 miles on it. Hes used fram orange filter(i know junk ,loll) and valvoline dino since the first oil change. I plan on changing the filter to a mc 820s filter and maybe even switching to mc 5w30 blend. Will this be an upgrade? don't want issues of running syn and having it leak like my old truck did so thought the blend would be good. Also thought about pyb with the new gf5 rating. Any and all thoughts/selections would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.
mc 5w30 vs dino valvoline vs the new pyb??
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I would do a couple runs of High Mileage oil first and then switch over to synthetic with that mileage. Not because I think it will cause leaks but if there is a collection of dirt/gunk in the engine it will liquify it slowly and carry it to filter instead of shocking the system with synthetic right away unless you know that the engine was properly cared for. If it was then switch to syn right away.
You can use the Motorcraft Syn. Blend, Pennzoil Conventional, or Valvoline Conventional for your Explorer. All three brands are highly dependable and contains an really good additive package which should be good for 5000 - 7500 miles. Motorcraft oil filters are made to Ford specs by Purolator and are highly regarded as good quality filters.
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Motor was cared for and always changed at 3000-3500 miles as some of the 140000 were highway. He was just saying that i should use the valvoline since thats all its seen since the mc it came with was dumped. I had thought ford dumped a lot of money into that mc oil and thought it would be nice to go back to org oil but the new pyb gf5 rated oil has me thinking....loll is valvoline last on this list of three in your guys eyes?
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Originally Posted By: StevieC
I would do a couple runs of High Mileage oil first and then switch over to synthetic with that mileage. Not because I think it will cause leaks but if there is a collection of dirt/gunk in the engine it will liquify it slowly and carry it to filter instead of shocking the system with synthetic right away unless you know that the engine was properly cared for. If it was then switch to syn right away.
Good advice here. I changed my wifes SUV that had 180k on long run dino (sometimes very long, lol) over to M1 0w30 followed then by castrol edge 10w30. Had about 3k on the M1 and 1k on the Edge and it basically almost stopped running. Pulled the plugs and they were all completely fouled BAD. Despite changing them 3 months prior. I think the oil cleaned the heck out of that engine all at once. Changed the plugs and runs just fine now. But I probably shouldn't have "shocked" it like that. haha
I would do a couple runs of High Mileage oil first and then switch over to synthetic with that mileage. Not because I think it will cause leaks but if there is a collection of dirt/gunk in the engine it will liquify it slowly and carry it to filter instead of shocking the system with synthetic right away unless you know that the engine was properly cared for. If it was then switch to syn right away.
Good advice here. I changed my wifes SUV that had 180k on long run dino (sometimes very long, lol) over to M1 0w30 followed then by castrol edge 10w30. Had about 3k on the M1 and 1k on the Edge and it basically almost stopped running. Pulled the plugs and they were all completely fouled BAD. Despite changing them 3 months prior. I think the oil cleaned the heck out of that engine all at once. Changed the plugs and runs just fine now. But I probably shouldn't have "shocked" it like that. haha
Originally Posted By: shpankey
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I would do a couple runs of High Mileage oil first and then switch over to synthetic with that mileage. Not because I think it will cause leaks but if there is a collection of dirt/gunk in the engine it will liquify it slowly and carry it to filter instead of shocking the system with synthetic right away unless you know that the engine was properly cared for. If it was then switch to syn right away.
Good advice here. I changed my wifes SUV that had 180k on long run dino (sometimes very long, lol) over to M1 0w30 followed then by castrol edge 10w30. Had about 3k on the M1 and 1k on the Edge and it basically almost stopped running. Pulled the plugs and they were all completely fouled BAD. Despite changing them 3 months prior. I think the oil cleaned the heck out of that engine all at once. Changed the plugs and runs just fine now. But I probably shouldn't have "shocked" it like that. haha
wouldn't the new pyb do this without shocking it? You think it needs to be cleaned out with the reg oil changes its seen?
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I would do a couple runs of High Mileage oil first and then switch over to synthetic with that mileage. Not because I think it will cause leaks but if there is a collection of dirt/gunk in the engine it will liquify it slowly and carry it to filter instead of shocking the system with synthetic right away unless you know that the engine was properly cared for. If it was then switch to syn right away.
Good advice here. I changed my wifes SUV that had 180k on long run dino (sometimes very long, lol) over to M1 0w30 followed then by castrol edge 10w30. Had about 3k on the M1 and 1k on the Edge and it basically almost stopped running. Pulled the plugs and they were all completely fouled BAD. Despite changing them 3 months prior. I think the oil cleaned the heck out of that engine all at once. Changed the plugs and runs just fine now. But I probably shouldn't have "shocked" it like that. haha
wouldn't the new pyb do this without shocking it? You think it needs to be cleaned out with the reg oil changes its seen?
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Originally Posted By: Shellguy
Motor was cared for and always changed at 3000-3500 miles as some of the 140000 were highway. He was just saying that i should use the valvoline since thats all its seen since the mc it came with was dumped. I had thought ford dumped a lot of money into that mc oil and thought it would be nice to go back to org oil but the new pyb gf5 rated oil has me thinking....loll is valvoline last on this list of three in your guys eyes?
I'd run whatever was cheapest, personally i'd use Valvoline, or Mc depending on how much the MC is. And if it was changed every 3-4k then I really doubt it is dirty inside.
Motor was cared for and always changed at 3000-3500 miles as some of the 140000 were highway. He was just saying that i should use the valvoline since thats all its seen since the mc it came with was dumped. I had thought ford dumped a lot of money into that mc oil and thought it would be nice to go back to org oil but the new pyb gf5 rated oil has me thinking....loll is valvoline last on this list of three in your guys eyes?
I'd run whatever was cheapest, personally i'd use Valvoline, or Mc depending on how much the MC is. And if it was changed every 3-4k then I really doubt it is dirty inside.
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That's the problem... they weren't regular oil changes. The first 100k was someone else, and they towed. The last 80k is her, and she really wouldn't check or change it and when she did, is was the wm special guys (not knocking them, just saying it's an unkown).
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I put pennzoil platinum in a vehicle that 126,000 miles always with conventional and it used the same 1/2 qt in 4k miles and didn't see any problems. The engine had 3k mile OCI intervals but it wasn't exactly spotless as I let an intake gasket leak go for awhile and it sees mostly short trips. If people use MMO without problems to clean sludged engines, I don't see how a synthetic least of all a blend would cause problems. I'd probably go with the cheapest dino, but of the 3 choices you mentioned I'd go with PYB that meets GF-5. The suggestion for HM oils also was good.
Originally Posted By: wallyuwl
Motorcraft blend but do the high mileage version.
???????????????
Motorcraft blend but do the high mileage version.
???????????????
That 4.0 is one of the few engines that Ford didnt want 20 Weight In. Many 5W30 Conventionals shear to a 20 Weight so I would try and choose one that tends to shear less.
If you are normally a 3,000-5,000 mile oil changer I would suggest trying Valvoline Maxlife 5W30 and running it 6,000-8,000 miles which will bring cost back in line. Its toward the thicker end for a 5W30, and has 20% GIV PAO (as compared to the Korean GIII in Motorcraft).
I am usually a Motorcraft fan but I simply think their are better choices for that individual engine. If it had been a 4.6L I would have suggested MC 5W20.
If you are normally a 3,000-5,000 mile oil changer I would suggest trying Valvoline Maxlife 5W30 and running it 6,000-8,000 miles which will bring cost back in line. Its toward the thicker end for a 5W30, and has 20% GIV PAO (as compared to the Korean GIII in Motorcraft).
I am usually a Motorcraft fan but I simply think their are better choices for that individual engine. If it had been a 4.6L I would have suggested MC 5W20.
Originally Posted By: Blumurder
Originally Posted By: wallyuwl
Motorcraft blend but do the high mileage version.
???????????????
XO-5W30-QHM
Originally Posted By: wallyuwl
Motorcraft blend but do the high mileage version.
???????????????
XO-5W30-QHM
Originally Posted By: Gene K
That 4.0 is one of the few engines that Ford didnt want 20 Weight In. Many 5W30 Conventionals shear to a 20 Weight so I would try and choose one that tends to shear less.
If you are normally a 3,000-5,000 mile oil changer I would suggest trying Valvoline Maxlife 5W30 and running it 6,000-8,000 miles which will bring cost back in line. Its toward the thicker end for a 5W30, and has 20% GIV PAO (as compared to the Korean GIII in Motorcraft).
I am usually a Motorcraft fan but I simply think their are better choices for that individual engine. If it had been a 4.6L I would have suggested MC 5W20.
Interesting Gene...Ive heard that once before. This mc XO-5W30-QHM, does it sheer? Does anyone else want to argue Genes point or offer another solution to a sheer stable 5w30 for this application? thanks Gene
That 4.0 is one of the few engines that Ford didnt want 20 Weight In. Many 5W30 Conventionals shear to a 20 Weight so I would try and choose one that tends to shear less.
If you are normally a 3,000-5,000 mile oil changer I would suggest trying Valvoline Maxlife 5W30 and running it 6,000-8,000 miles which will bring cost back in line. Its toward the thicker end for a 5W30, and has 20% GIV PAO (as compared to the Korean GIII in Motorcraft).
I am usually a Motorcraft fan but I simply think their are better choices for that individual engine. If it had been a 4.6L I would have suggested MC 5W20.
Interesting Gene...Ive heard that once before. This mc XO-5W30-QHM, does it sheer? Does anyone else want to argue Genes point or offer another solution to a sheer stable 5w30 for this application? thanks Gene
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So you won't have to change your name,
Shell makes a Formula Shell High Mileage oil.
Hey Johnny.. Thought you might show up...Hope all is well. And love that dino shell when i was getting it on sale for a 1.50 all the time,lol. So what im getting at is the hm formula's are they way to go here from the info im getting? Im not burning any oil nor do i have any leaks but like gene said earlier i don't want something thats going to sheer to a 5w20. Or is there any 5w30's that don't sheer to 5w20?
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140,000 miles and he used Fram orange can filters? Why then it must be the third or fourth motor in it.
I think Gene has given some good advise here as the HM oils start out with higher VI base stock than the regular 5W-30 oils do. Really any of the good HM oil will give you good service, Valvoline, Pennzoil, Quaker State, Castrol, and yes even Formula Shell HM oil.
Shellguy I may be being over cautious. I have a tendency to over think this stuff sometimes. It could be that 5W30 sheared to a high 20 weight (8.50-9.29 cSt) isnt an issue. After all 20 weight goes all the way down to 5.60 cSt and even then it would likely only be a problem at very elevated sump temperature. Ford would have to take into consideration worst case scenarios.
I dont know where you live or if 10W30 would be an option but if anything the Shell 10W30 High Mileage looks good at 12.0 cSt. Most of the high mileage oils dont shear like the standard oils. Also you could use Shell Rotella T5 Synthetic Blend 10W30 (SM rated for Gas Engines) if you are looking at other options.
I dont have any specific knowledge on the MC HM. I just know it exist and I have seen it on the shelf once or twice.
I dont know where you live or if 10W30 would be an option but if anything the Shell 10W30 High Mileage looks good at 12.0 cSt. Most of the high mileage oils dont shear like the standard oils. Also you could use Shell Rotella T5 Synthetic Blend 10W30 (SM rated for Gas Engines) if you are looking at other options.
I dont have any specific knowledge on the MC HM. I just know it exist and I have seen it on the shelf once or twice.
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