Mazda 5 rear motor mount upgrade

[xspeedy]

I have discovered that I can use a rear engine mount / torque strut from a Ford eFocus / Focus ST on my 2009 Mazda 5 (which is basically a tall Focus). It is stiffer and seems a popular mod to address excess engine twist and wheel hop. The Ford PN is CM5Z-6068-A, but the factory part is discontinued. A new one goes for around $1K if you can locate one (not spending that). I have found some aftermarket ones cheap at around $30 - Motor King and Westar. But there is this one that several eBay sellers offer and describe as OEM. It doesn’t say Ford or Motorcraft anywhere. Thoughts? I have reached out to the seller to determine what OEM means and who the manufacturer is.

And of course, I happened across this upgrade after I bought a Mazda unit on eBay.

 

[Nukeman7]

Look at the fine details at the bottom of the listing. Like nearly all counterfeit Chinese manufactured parts, it says the brand is "Unbranded", which means it is a non-descript generic part, typically of lower quality. Guaranteed not to be a legit Ford or Motorcraft part.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Quirk has that part number CM5Z-6068-A on ebay or you can get it directly from Quirk

 

[nwjones18]

I put one on my 2007 Mazda 3 years ago when I was chasing what turned out to be a bad throwout bearing. I wouldn't suggest it. Its so stiff it is almost impossible to take off the car from a stop smoothly. It also 'kicks' harder than it should when you shift into second. I've often thought about swapping mine back to a stock mount, but you have to change the bolt along with the mount when you replace and I don't have the original bolt anymore.

This is a mod you should skip IMO.

 

[MCompact]

I put an e focus mount on my 2007 Mazdaspeed 3. At the time it was less expensive and less aggressive than a lot of the mounts that various tuners were selling. I was very happy with it; sometimes at idle you could feel a tiny bit of vibration but it was essentially inconsequential.

 

[nwjones18]

I put an e focus mount on my 2007 Mazdaspeed 3. At the time it was less expensive and less aggressive than a lot of the mounts that various tuners were selling. I was very happy with it; sometimes at idle you could feel a tiny bit of vibration but it was essentially inconsequential.

Was yours a manual? I don't mind the additional vibration, but I have to be extremely sensitive on the clutch to get a smooth launch with it installed and it is annoying. Speed 3 has the dual mass flywheel so maybe that would help.

On the NA 2.3 there just isn't enough power really have any issues with wheel hop or engine twist. If the OP's 5 is an automatic that would probably negate some of my complaints as well.

 

[xspeedy]

The 5 is a manual. The wheel hop is really violent if the roads are wet, and doesn’t take much to break traction. I also find rolling around in first to be jerky, when you go from on throttle to off and vice versa. Searching forums, most say the eFocus mount helps with these things, and just adds a touch of vibration at idle, particularly with the AC running. It is still a rubber mount, less Swiss cheese than stock but not as hard as a polyurethane. The car is all stock, but we do drive it fairly enthusiastically.

 

[MCompact]

Was yours a manual? I don't mind the additional vibration, but I have to be extremely sensitive on the clutch to get a smooth launch with it installed and it is annoying. Speed 3 has the dual mass flywheel so maybe that would help.

On the NA 2.3 there just isn't enough power really have any issues with wheel hop or engine twist. If the OP's 5 is an automatic that would probably negate some of my complaints as well.

Yes- a manual. I never had an issue with it at all.

 

[xspeedy]

Quirk has that part number CM5Z-6068-A on ebay or you can get it directly from Quirk

That is a new old stock at $850. That may be more than the car is worth

 

[xspeedy]

I put one on my 2007 Mazda 3 years ago when I was chasing what turned out to be a bad throwout bearing.

May I ask your symptoms from the bad bearing? The one thing that got me looking at mounts was an intermittent weird quiver in the clutch pedal when just slightly off the floor but before engagement. I found pumping the clutch a bunch seemed to help. I bled the slave which I have never done, and removed some grungy fluid. Haven’t driven it much since. I was doing the mount as a step, but heard these go bad and figured I would address it. The way we drive, at 170K, it has to be compromised.

 

[nwjones18]

May I ask your symptoms from the bad bearing? The one thing that got me looking at mounts was an intermittent weird quiver in the clutch pedal when just slightly off the floor but before engagement. I found pumping the clutch a bunch seemed to help. I bled the slave which I have never done, and removed some grungy fluid. Haven’t driven it much since. I was doing the mount as a step, but heard these go bad and figured I would address it. The way we drive, at 170K, it has to be compromised.

Pretty much what you’re describing… I chased the motor mounts and bled mine too. Eventually it shook so bad I knew something was bad with the clutch. It never gave what would be typical throw out bearing symptoms, but was obviously bad upon removal. Get the stock exedy clutch (comes with 2 styles of throughout bearings) and the updated clutch fork if you end up replacing it.

 

[daniel327]

Just get the Panda Motor Works mount for about $300 and you'll never have to worry about it again