I'm hoping it won't be a quick failure. We had a 2003 Malibu (3100) in the family since it was new and we had to replace the intake manifold gasket twice in that car. It gave us a fair amount of notice, though, with the white residue on the tailpipe, disappearing coolant in the reservoir, and somewhat white-ish exhaust.
Why change what has worked? Stick with the Castrol. Heck, your local Wally World in Gulf Shores (or wherever) carries it as their bulk oil change. For 19.95 you can get it done and sleep well for at least 6 months or so. Those 3.8L pushrod engines are bulletproof.
I know. I guess its just human nature to not want change. Iv found something that works well for me. So I like to keep with it.
I don't have a problem with castrol I know they are a very respected brand but Valvoline is piece of mind for me.
The 3.8 series one are not effected by the intake manifold/gasket failure. They do happen since any part can fail but are rare.
The intake and lower intake/gasket failure are a lot more common on the series 2.
Series 3 "fixed" the problem. But the problem was only with series 2.
Given the way you use the car and the climate that you live in, 7500 would probably work with any oil.
If the engine is neither consuming nor leaking oil, then there's no particular reason to use Maxlife.
There are UOAs of Maxlife syn in that forum and TBN retention seems uninspiring.
There are a number of good syns available for reasonable prices at Walmart, including Synpower, if you're really stuck on Ashland products.
For that matter, NAPA offers their labeled version of Ashland synthetic a couple of times each year for $3.49/qt, which would be about as cheap as syn oil gets without having to resort to MIRs.
if you are gona ignore Valvoline views on the mather,then don't use Valvoline!valvoline is a great oil but if you don't listen to their advice for their own oil?you only have your self to blame!valvoline is one of the top oil to extend durability of engine ,as long as you do what they say!if you want to have extended oil change I would use another brand ,but still you will still need to change the oil every 6 month minimum!.yep this means best bang for the buck is likely to be a conventional oil!if you don't live in the climate where a synthetic is required ,hot area or cold area I wouldn't use synthetic.there are temperature chart online to better pinpoint your need .like if you live in Canada in winter ?a synthetic isn't maybe ,it is gona be required,in summer?bof plain old conventionnol will do .but if you live in Arizona?you are likely to need synthetic ,this is also true if you were to live say in Miami (urban area tend to be warmer.given where you live you can use convention say a Valvoline premium conventional 10w30 and call it a day.but don't go past Valvoline recommendation.grab another brand if you want 15000 miles interval .plenty of oil maker make those
Hi, new to the forums.....
Owner manual recommends 7500 for conv (doesn't list synthetic) in my driving conditions since all my trips are mixed interstate/highway 30+ miles.
Contacted Valvoline they said 3k miles or owners manual.
First off, welcome to BITOG. As you have seen, you'll get plenty of feedback. Here's mine--
Owner's manual says 7500 for conventional. You said your driving is all highway; highway mikes are easiest on oil so IMO yu coukld start with a 7500 mile oci without worry and work up from there.
I have used Valvoline conventional in the past, and tested it after 5k, the uoa was great and there was additive remaining.
To really save though, you may want to consider using a good synthetic and going to 10k or even further, depending on the uoa of course. Member tig1 runs M1 in all his vehicles with a 10k oci, and could probably go longer.
To answer the thread name question: yes in all likelihood you are safe with that oil at that distance.
The lady who owned the car used Castrol every 3k miles. But I know you can push the envelope some. I'm not trying to get 100k out of a OCI just a reasonable amount to justify the cost of the oil and higher end filter. Worst comes to worst I'll simply use conv. With 5k OCI
My last car was a 95 Volvo 850 it had 5k mile oil changes on it since we got it back at 120k miles. Junked the car a few months back at 289k ran fine but front end was falling apart and didn't want to sell it to someone who would ride it hard and kill it. But yeah the car ran perfectly fine and smooth.
Several occasions iv stopped and talked to someone and walked over to shut the car off and they said they never even heard it.
The lady who owned the car has more sense than some of the posts I have read.
IMO if the vehicle has been exposed to 3k OCIs with Castrol oil why change after 18 years ? Listen to the old lady.