Maxima 2000 oil drain plug won't budge

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I tried to change my oil for the first time ever since I bought my 2000 maxima and the oil drain plug won't budge ... I tried unscrewing it anti-clockwise and the plug seems to be screwed in by my dealer using a power wrentch. Would it be easier if the oil pressure is less.. when I tried to unscrew the plug the oil was still pretty warm. Any suggestions..
 
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quote:
Originally posted by MaximaGuy: I tried to change my oil for the first time ever since I bought my 2000 maxima and the oil drain plug won't budge ... I tried unscrewing it anti-clockwise and the plug seems to be screwed in by my dealer using a power wrentch. Would it be easier if the oil pressure is less.. when I tried to unscrew the plug the oil was still pretty warm. Any suggestions..
I know this sounds stupid, but make sure you were going left (lefty-loosy)...when you get under a car sometimes it throws ya off. With that said though, I've dealt with my fair share of overtight drain plugs. Two choices: 1. Buy a socket wrench with a long handle to act as a breaker bar. 2. Find some small metal tubing to slip over the handle of the socket you already have. Using a long extension, you can apply a constant, steady force to the plug. Using an extension pipe, there has never been a drain plug I couldn't get out. (Well, unless the last one was put in cross-threaded or something!)
 
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No oil temp won't make much difference. You neeed a high quality 6 point socket the correct size of course and a proper breaker bar if you don't have access to impact tools. Don't mess with any other tool setups, adjustables, visegrips etc. will at this point destroy the bolt. visegrips are for after the bolt is destroyed. [Duh!]
 
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I don't know what the deal is with oil change people at places, but they ALWAYS crank everything on as hard as they can. Oil drain plugs, with a proper gasket, should be just moderately tightened up; just stop applying pressure when the plug won't turn anymore with light to moderate force applied. With that said, if you have a rubber mallet, just lightly smack the handle of the ratchet while you hold the socket on the drain plug. Works for me everytime, and I've undone some drain plugs that wouldn't even come off with a 2 foot breaker bar [Eek!] [ September 21, 2003, 04:24 PM: Message edited by: Drew99GT ]
 
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quote:
Originally posted by sbc350gearhead: Try tapping on the ratchet with a rubber mallet. It often works. Maybe a penetrating oil as well.
**** , beat me to it [LOL!]
 

Al

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Elizabethtown, Pa
Use a box wrench with a sturdy handle and use a steel hammer (make sure you use goggles). I would not waste my time with rubber mallet-you need shock. Ideally you should use a "knocker" wrench specifically made for striking with a hammer. But if it's sturdy-you'll be O.K. Again-use face protection. As as was mentioned: righty tighty-leftly loosey.
 
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Another hint, you said the temp was still warm, try it just after shutting the motor off- when the oil is HOT.. Lots of times threaded connections need to be HOT when they get un-threaded...especially helps with the differential and transmission drain/fill bolts.. Use the other techniques mentioned above, tapping with hammer or using leverage (longer breaker bar) along with heat and you may luck up.. also be prepared to have to go to the parts store to get another bolt in case that one was cross-threaded ( maybe have one on hand if needed and return to store later if not needed..)
 
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There are a lot of techniques for old, rusted, frozen bolts. In this case, I think just brute force like King Kong used is best. I have found laying on my back and holding on the bumper while I push on the wrench is the answer in some cases. Needless to say, unless you have a good 6 point socket, all more force will do is round off the bolt making it almost impossible to remove. One more story to make me feel good about never having allowed one of those places to touch my car.
 
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