Marine 454 UOA

Joined
Nov 11, 2019
Messages
37
Location
Indiana
Been meaning to do this for a while. The duration of the change was shorter than I hoped for but this oil had an extreme duty cycle on it. We do a ski race with this boat sometimes where it runs WOT for about an hour and this oil includes race duty. It’s got a large oil cooler and typical post cooler temperature ranges between 190-210 pending water temperature.

This is a stock bottom end carbureted marine 454 with around 1150 hours. Running VR1 20-50 conventional and a special wix filter to work with the cooler (it lacks a factory BPV so it needs to be added to the filter).

I typically run a 50-60 hour interval but the mid season change came at an odd time and I wanted a fresh fill in the sump before we raced.

Looking pretty good me thinks !
IMG_3131.jpeg
 
Been meaning to do this for a while. The duration of the change was shorter than I hoped for but this oil had an extreme duty cycle on it. We do a ski race with this boat sometimes where it runs WOT for about an hour and this oil includes race duty. It’s got a large oil cooler and typical post cooler temperature ranges between 190-210 pending water temperature.

This is a stock bottom end carbureted marine 454 with around 1150 hours. Running VR1 20-50 conventional and a special wix filter to work with the cooler (it lacks a factory BPV so it needs to be added to the filter).

I typically run a 50-60 hour interval but the mid season change came at an odd time and I wanted a fresh fill in the sump before we raced.

Looking pretty good me thinks !
View attachment 188441
What kind of boat is your 454 in? Sounds like a healthy sporty boat..
 
I've heard some of these old GM blocks showed higher wear numbers but we know that's not necessarily a bad thing since these engines are known to last a good bit of time. Thanks for sharing.
 
What kind of boat is your 454 in? Sounds like a healthy sporty boat..
They are older barefoot ski boats. Barefoot Nautiques. Check the box and the baseline engine option was a 454. Could be had with 351 if ordered as such but they aimed for them to be a bit speedier then a small block.
 
They are older barefoot ski boats. Barefoot Nautiques. Check the box and the baseline engine option was a 454. Could be had with 351 if ordered as such but they aimed for them to be a bit speedier then a small block.
I would think the big block would turn less RPMs making the ride a little more tolerable. A small block would be wound out and likely have an annoying pitch in the same condition.

Just my $0.02
 
I’m not sure where Blackstone gets their “Values Should Be” numbers or why they say it isn’t too thin for a 20W/50 grade oil, because a 50 grade oil should have a viscosity between 16.30-21.89. Yours is at 14.49, which means it’s sheared to a mid 40 grade oil.
 
I’m not sure where Blackstone gets their “Values Should Be” numbers or why they say it isn’t too thin for a 20W/50 grade oil, because a 50 grade oil should have a viscosity between 16.30-21.89. Yours is at 14.49, which means it’s sheared to a mid 40 grade oil.
maybe that is where it shears to under the stated usage on average?
 
I’m not sure where Blackstone gets their “Values Should Be” numbers or why they say it isn’t too thin for a 20W/50 grade oil, because a 50 grade oil should have a viscosity between 16.30-21.89. Yours is at 14.49, which means it’s sheared to a mid 40 grade oil.
Should be a non issue because I doubt this engine was spec'd for a 20w-50 from GM.
 
They are older barefoot ski boats. Barefoot Nautiques. Check the box and the baseline engine option was a 454. Could be had with 351 if ordered as such but they aimed for them to be a bit speedier then a small block.
Oh yes, I have seen the Barefoot Nautiques. I have an 84 Ski Nautique with the 351W.
It looks as though the BN would ride rough lakes better because of the deeper V hull design?
 
I’m not sure where Blackstone gets their “Values Should Be” numbers or why they say it isn’t too thin for a 20W/50 grade oil, because a 50 grade oil should have a viscosity between 16.30-21.89. Yours is at 14.49, which means it’s sheared to a mid 40 grade oil.
I’ve read VR1 20-50 is one of the most shear stable oils available. The 50w is probably too heavy for the application per bearing clearances but a 10-30 under extreme use I’m not comfortable with. Unfortunately, VR1 only comes in 10-30/20-50 so 20-50 it is.

I’ve put 400-500 hard hours on this rig and it seems to be plenty happy with the VR1 (BBC are known to wipe out cams commonly and VR1 still has adequate ZDDP without going overboard). With temps in check and a short service interval I don’t see the need to switch to a synthetic.

I assume the shear here is due to my “extreme” use case ? It cruises some but it spends a lot of time at 4000-5000 rpm’s and 75-100% throttle. This oil change does include the race run at close to or full WOT for an hour.
 
I would think the big block would turn less RPMs making the ride a little more tolerable. A small block would be wound out and likely have an annoying pitch in the same condition.

Just my $0.02
These boats are extremely speed limited by the hull design and fixed shaft angle. More cubes can allow a nice low cruise rpm which is nice. This one will cruise at a much lower rpm than a small block making 150 less HP but it’ll actually turn more rpm’s WOT.

Basically, for optimal performance you prop it at WOT at the rpm where it makes peak power (would be determined by top GPS speed achieved if you don’t have a dyno to confirm). Doesn’t need to rev past peak like say a drag car might that shifts gears.

There is some voodoo in prop selection pending the propeller design. Some will run higher speed off peak HP rpm but there’s only a few that will do that.
 
Oh yes, I have seen the Barefoot Nautiques. I have an 84 Ski Nautique with the 351W.
It looks as though the BN would ride rough lakes better because of the deeper V hull design?
They do rough water much better than a Ski but still pretty meh compared to newer stuff. I have an 85 SN and have had many other 2001s over the years. Currently running a 351 in one of my BFNs just to get it usable for now. The Fords drink rotella conventional 15-40 and always have.
 
I currently have Chevron Delo 400 sae 30 in it now for winter storage and spring use if spring arrives in 2024. Next up is likely going to be the Rotella that you use, T4 in 15w40.
 
I’ve read VR1 20-50 is one of the most shear stable oils available. The 50w is probably too heavy for the application per bearing clearances but a 10-30 under extreme use I’m not comfortable with. Unfortunately, VR1 only comes in 10-30/20-50 so 20-50 it is.

I’ve put 400-500 hard hours on this rig and it seems to be plenty happy with the VR1 (BBC are known to wipe out cams commonly and VR1 still has adequate ZDDP without going overboard). With temps in check and a short service interval I don’t see the need to switch to a synthetic.

I assume the shear here is due to my “extreme” use case ? It cruises some but it spends a lot of time at 4000-5000 rpm’s and 75-100% throttle. This oil change does include the race run at close to or full WOT for an hour.

Yeah, the shear may be from your “extreme“ use. I also notice you have 1.5% fuel dilution. That may be contributing to the shear.
 
Yeah, the shear may be from your “extreme“ use. I also notice you have 1.5% fuel dilution. That may be contributing to the shear.
Yeah, I’m not sure I can get it lower than 1%. It’s carbureted and the oil generally runs about 180 sump in normal use. It needs to be working really hard to get lots of temp in the oil. Conversely, it gets too hot sans cooler and any smaller cooler wouldn’t provide enough cooling in extreme service (race).

It’s pretty dialed on fuel settings. Every once in a while it’ll puff a little rich smoke on a hot restart after sitting a while but carbs be carbin.
 
These boats are extremely speed limited by the hull design and fixed shaft angle. More cubes can allow a nice low cruise rpm which is nice. This one will cruise at a much lower rpm than a small block making 150 less HP but it’ll actually turn more rpm’s WOT.

Basically, for optimal performance you prop it at WOT at the rpm where it makes peak power (would be determined by top GPS speed achieved if you don’t have a dyno to confirm). Doesn’t need to rev past peak like say a drag car might that shifts gears.

There is some voodoo in prop selection pending the propeller design. Some will run higher speed off peak HP rpm but there’s only a few that will do that.
Our boat came with a 3 blade SS 21 pitch prop, I switched it out to a 4 blade 19 pitch SS prop and it is much better for the hole shot of pulling up skiers or tubes etc, I lost about 3MPH of top speed but it is rarely smooth enough around here to go on an extended WOT blast anyway.
 
Back
Top