manufacture reccomends 5w-30 for a turbo?

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newbie here - this is my second turbo vehicle. my first one was a VW and they reccomended 5/40 and now my new car, a mazda, wants me to use 5/30. it just seems really light to me, ive never ran 5-30 in any of my vehicles and was wondering if 5-30 will tend to burn off faster than a heavier weight? with the turbo its always a fear of "coking" up the turbo and feed lines. is there an alternative to the reccomended 5-30 or do i not veer from the manu. reccomendation?

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Is that a Mazda 5 with 2.3t? Looks great! Must be nice to see cars in the mirror getting smaller:-)

Will the dealer change the oil if you take your own?
 
Any SM rated 5w-30 will be just fine. If you want to use synthetic for extra insurance, that's not a bad idea, but, it's not necessary. Really. Spend 20.00 on a UOA or two at a normally-scheduled oil change for piece of mind. Compare your values to others with your same engine. It will save you money over time, and free up your worrying for more productive subjects. Nice car, smooth engine!
 
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As the other guys have said THICKER IS NOT BETTER. A good synthetic 5W-30 is all you need. Actually a higher vis oil in a turbo may not flow as quickly and cause more wear issues. Your VW probably had slightly larger clearances in the turbo bearings or maybe the design engineers simply went with the VW tradition of XW-40.

A lot of folks run 5W-20 in some big motors now. If anything the wear is better!

Just curious - what is the oil change interval (OCI) recommended by Mazda?

Welcome Again - hang around - a lot to learn about lubes!
 
i plan to run synthetic but after a little while. this is my 3rd new car and ive always changed the oil out the first time around 1 or 2000 then as reccomended my the manu. mazda reccomends every 7500 but ill feel better going every 5k. its an '07 mazdaspeed3 thats supposed to be limited to 5000 units for this year. they're giving me a free initial oil change so ill probably change at 1000 then let them do it around 5 or 6000 and then go synthetic around 8 or 10000.
 
Nice ride! The 'regular' version of your car calls for 5w20, it is only because it's a turbo they are calling for 5w30. Mazda will run Motorcraft semi-synthetic 5w30 at the dealer, but you can certainly step up to a full synthetic 5w30 like Mobil1, Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Syntec, or Amsoil for an added level of protection.

A 5w40 or 10w30 would not likely cause any harm, but using anything much thicker than that may increase temperatures, decrease power output, and may leed to oil starvation as your cars oil pump and cylinder oil jets were designed with 5w30 in mind.

While i may be in the minority around here, with a turbo i would not exceed 5000 miles on my OCI regardless of what oil is used.

zoom zoom zoom!
 
I run the Amsoil 0w-30 in my hard driven, 1.8L/225 Hp Audi TT roadster and it works perfectly based on oil analysis and 10,000 mile OCI's. Oil consumption is about 1/4 qt every 4000 miles, which is about the same as when I tried the Amsoil 10w-40/AMO. Fuel efficiency is about 2%-3% better than with the thicker oil and the turbo spools up better with the slightly thinner oil.

Any decent 0w-30/5w-30/10w-30, ACEA A5/B5 rated, synthetic should work well here, with the maximum OCI recommended by Mazda for "normal" driving conditions.

TD
 
so you 2 guys with the VW/VAG 1.8T's went against the manufactures reccomendation and ran the 30 weight huh, just wondering what your thoughts are on swaying from the reccomendation to the lighter weight. i stuck with their reccomendation of 5/40 for the 5 years that i had mine.
 
I run Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (a.k.a., "German Castrol" or simply "GC") in both my girlfriend's 2001 Audi A4 1.8T and in my 2005 Subaru Impreza WRX STi. Both are turbocharged engines and are driven quite hard. Have no fear, a xW-30 synthetic will be just fine for your turbocharged Mazda. Enjoy your new ride!
 
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Nice ride! The 'regular' version of your car calls for 5w20, it is only because it's a turbo they are calling for 5w30.




That's interesting. I've also wondered why 10W-30's are still on the market when a 5W-30 will have the same viscosity at operating temps and then even be thinner at cold start up. Seems like 10W-30 is obsolete.
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so you 2 guys with the VW/VAG 1.8T's went against the manufactures reccomendation and ran the 30 weight huh, just wondering what your thoughts are on swaying from the reccomendation to the lighter weight. i stuck with their reccomendation of 5/40 for the 5 years that i had mine.




Actually the manufacture's recommendation is 5W30 in europe for all VW-Audi engines.
 
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That's interesting. I've also wondered why 10W-30's are still on the market when a 5W-30 will have the same viscosity at operating temps and then even be thinner at cold start up. Seems like 10W-30 is obsolete.
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My Mazda owners manual allows 5w30 and 10w30 across most temperatures that i'll ever see. I've experiemented with both and have not found a great deal of difference. The oil on the dip-stick "seems" thicker with 10w30 when the engine is hot, but ive had no problem starting my car in 10*F weather with 10w30 and no problems using 5w30 in 105*F heat. I track my gas mileage and also notate what oil is in the car at the time along with what octane is used. I've found no measurable difference that can be duplicated.

I'm somewhat hesitant to use 5w30 all the time in my car as previous (pre 1997) Fords and Mazdas with my engine have limited the use of 5w30 to temps below 65*F to 86*F depending on which owners manual you look at. Then again newer SM oils are a LOT better than oils 5-10 years ago and while the engine may be the same the oil pump design may very well have changed to allow for "thinner" ols.

The main benefit to using 10w30 in my car is it's a lot easier to see where the oil level is on the dip stick
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For no apparent reason the oil my Mazda seems to like the best is plain old pennzoil dino 10w30. Friday it was 12*F outside, my windshield was covered with frost, and the sprinklers in my apt complex had coated the hood with a nice sheet of ice. My Mazda cranked right up like it was 80 degrees outside (If you dont count the power steering pump whinning for a few seconds).

The only Turbo i've had experience with was a 1985 Volvo Turbo that had over 250,000 miles on it when sold. It had pennzoil 10w30 dino it's entire life, changed religiously every 3,000 miles, and ran perfect when sold.

So 10w30 may be obsolete, but it's still not a bad choice for many cars that do not see arctic temps on a regular basis.
 
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