Maintenance on low mileage vehicle

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Vehicle in question is a '03 Grand Marquis LS (it's a Job 1 for the Ford people) with the Handling Package, and 25,000 original kilometres (15,625 miles) on the clock. The maintenance list is as follows:

- 4.5 quarts Motorcraft 10w30 to 1.5 quarts MMO with FL-820S
- Cooler line flush with Motorcraft Mercon V
- Power steering flush with Mercon V
- Coolant flush with Motorcraft Gold and distilled water (50/50)
- Refill differential with Mopar Synthetic 75W-140 (GL-5)
- Change brake fluid with Prestone DOT 3
- Replace air filter
- Replace fuel filter
- Replace PCV valve
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator cap
- Replace valve cover gaskets
- Replace drive belts
- Clean MAF and throttle body
- Replace tires (still on the factory Pirelli P6's dated to 2002)

Would it be worthwhile replacing the platinum spark plugs? Is there anything that needs to be added? I'm also going to replace other minor items, such as the wiper blades and treat the weather-stripping. After 3 runs of Motorcraft 10w30 and MMO I'm going to switch it to Fuchs Titan GT1 5w30.
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You probably could pop the spark plugs out to take a look, I know in my owner's manual they recommend replacing the spark plugs at 100,000 miles.

I think I would eventually run a good semi synthrtic oil in this engine, unless you want to run 10% to 25 % of your oil volume with MMO using conventional oil.
 
My bet is the plugs are just fine. If you feel like taking them out checking the gap and coating the threads with Anti-Seize so they don't rot in place, that might be a good idea. Otherwise leave well enough alone.


BTW nice idea with the MMO that will clean her up nice!

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Thanks for the input, gentleman!
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Originally Posted By: c3po
I think I would eventually run a good semi synthrtic oil in this engine, unless you want to run 10% to 25 % of your oil volume with MMO using conventional oil.


Fuchs Titan GT1 is actually a German full synthetic. Should be fine for at least 10,000 miles I reckon.

Originally Posted By: Onmo'Eegusee
I'd cut out the radiator hoses, valve cover gaskets, and drive belts unless they actually look bad.


After 7 Kuwaiti summers, it's only cheap insurance to replace them. The heat is very harsh on those parts, and they're fairly cheap. I'm actually considering replacing the hoses with the green silicone ones found in CVPIs.
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Last edited:
Originally Posted By: ADFD1
My bet is the plugs are just fine. If you feel like taking them out checking the gap and coating the threads with Anti-Seize so they don't rot in place, that might be a good idea. Otherwise leave well enough alone.


BTW nice idea with the MMO that will clean her up nice!

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Thanks for the input! The anti-seize is actually a good idea, as I've already got one at hand.
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Is this Fuchs Titan GT1 motor oil as good as Mobil 1 0W-40, I remember you were talking about using this motor oil in another car, meaning the Mobil 1 0W-40.
 
I run Fuchs Titan GT1 in the Mercedes ML500, although 25% of the crankcase capacity is MMO and the remaining 75% is GT1. It's a brilliant oil, meeting some pretty tough specs: ACEA A3/B3, MB Sheet 229.3/229.5 and BMW Long-Life '01. It's not API certified, however.
 
It sounds like you found your oil, since you have a very hot climate, I would definetly steer clear of any conventional oil's.
 
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Originally Posted By: Onmo'Eegusee
I'd cut out the radiator hoses, valve cover gaskets, and drive belts unless they actually look bad.


After 7 Kuwaiti summers, it's only cheap insurance to replace them. The heat is very harsh on those parts, and they're fairly cheap. I'm actually considering replacing the hoses with the green silicone ones found in CVPIs.
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Thats the only thing I would do with the hoses. They are EPDM rubber anymore, very durable.
 
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