Maing the jump to Group IV or V stocks

[saaber1]

Originally Posted By: dparm
I've also done some research and am seeing someone claim the Motul 300V is not chemically designed for long-change intervals. This led to higher tin and iron wear.

Specifically:
"The main issue with using an ester base oil in anything other than a racing car, is that high amounts of ester are hydrolytically unstable, and form carboxylic acids with water vapor condensing in the crankcase."


That has been debunked so many times already that I am losing count. It is not accurate at all. Look for posts by Tom NJ if you want an opinion from a real expert on esters. He has stated several times on BITOG that the above quote is wrong.

 

[BobFout]

Originally Posted By: Trajan
Originally Posted By: stenerson
Originally Posted By: Johnny
If it were mine I would make a trip to Walmart and buy up a bunch of the Mobil 1 0W-40 and be done with it. It is a Group IV oil and a darn good one at that.


I've never seen 0w40 in our Walmart. Must not sell much.
Autozone carries it but in the pricey quart bottles.


It'so longer in the three walmarts in my area either...


I've never see it at wal-mart, but it's in every auto parts store I've been to.

 

[saaber1]

The redline costs about the same as the Motul. I don't know what renewable lubricants costs. Biosyn and Redline, 2 group 5 oils that have shown to fare well in fuel dilution applications, are the two oils I would be looking at if this were my car.

I am taking it on authority a little bit for the Biosyn based on all the work that Rl_RS4 has done because I have not seen that many Boisyn UOAS for the similarly fuel diluting 2.0FSI. In the 2.0 FSI, the ester based oils are doing the best. AS an example look at this UOA: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/uoa-for-redline-w40-mix-in-vw-2-0t.131936/

the two previous UOAs were motul. The redline metals are lower. Shear is less and flashpoint is higher. Group V oils are showing the best of the 70 or so UOAs we have for the 2.0 FSI (note that one run of Brad Penn 10W30 also showed very well).

 

[dparm]

Yes, I was intrigued by the RS4 oil testing done with Terry Dyson. That motor is quite different from mine though -- 4V/cylinder, higher redline, and direct-injection.

Thanks for the info on "debunking" the Motul 300V info!

 

[saaber1]

Originally Posted By: dparm
Yes, I was intrigued by the RS4 oil testing done with Terry Dyson. That motor is quite different from mine though -- 4V/cylinder, higher redline, and direct-injection.

Thanks for the info on "debunking" the Motul 300V info!

Oh sorry, I just assumed your's was FSI and a fuel diluter. I should have read your post closer. That 9 quart sump is awesome!

 

[dparm]

9.5 quarts is not awesome when you have to buy oil...nevermind the weird filter element that's $20 at the dealership. Seriously, oil changes set me back $100+ in parts alone.

 

[Marukai]

Originally Posted By: dparm
Right now my Audi S4 (4.2L V8) is running Lubro-Moly Synthoil 5w40. After reading through countless discussions on here, I've decided to make the jump up to higher-quality oil that uses group 4 or 5 base stocks.

Obviously Motul 300V is a group 5, but that stuff is $10/quart or more and my car needs 9 quarts for a change. That is really pushing it. There is Motul 8100 X-CESS for a little bit less, which is supposedly very good too.

There's of course Redline and Amsoil 5w40 as well.

What are the other options for a group 4 or 5?

I went ahead and switched all of my fluids to Eneos. It first started out with an oil change and then the rest soon followed. I love this oil.... Gas mileage is great and my engine is super smooth. You can't beat the price either. It's sold on Amazon with free shipping and no tax. It's 100% synthetic and not a blend. You can buy it on Amazon by the case of 6 or in singles, which end up being the same as the case price.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=bl_sr_automo...ndtextbin=Eneos

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: BobFout
Originally Posted By: d00df00d

Red Line is always good, although it doesn't carry any approvals and probably never will. Ditto Amsoil, although the general consensus seems to be that their 5w-40 is getting VERY long in the tooth and likely to be retired soon.


Which of the two Amsoil 5w40s is getting long in the tooth?


I'm pretty sure he's talking about AFL and I'm not sure what he is talking about with the retirement thing. AFL is a low SAPS 5W-40 and it's absolutely great at doing what you ask it to do - in the correct application. If you are asking it to be a 1970 HDEO, then that is not the correct application.

 

[d00df00d]

Originally Posted By: dparm
What I'm trying to achieve is basically maximum protection for the vehicle. Duh, right? I just want a good high-end motor oil. This is an expensive and complex motor and I want it to last, especially my unusual usage pattern.

You already have a good high-end motor oil.

If you don't have any reason to suspect that it's falling short, you have no reason to fret your choice.

I know it's tempting to think that way, especially when there are so many glitzy and glamorous names out there. Don't be so quick to assume that just because one oil is marketed as "higher end" than another, it will necessarily be better for you.

If you're really worried, go ahead and pull some samples for oil analysis and see what comes back.

 

[d00df00d]

Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: BobFout
Originally Posted By: d00df00d

Red Line is always good, although it doesn't carry any approvals and probably never will. Ditto Amsoil, although the general consensus seems to be that their 5w-40 is getting VERY long in the tooth and likely to be retired soon.


Which of the two Amsoil 5w40s is getting long in the tooth?


I'm pretty sure he's talking about AFL and I'm not sure what he is talking about with the retirement thing. AFL is a low SAPS 5W-40 and it's absolutely great at doing what you ask it to do - in the correct application. If you are asking it to be a 1970 HDEO, then that is not the correct application.

Yes, I was talking about AFL. I thought you said there was another xw-40 coming in to replace it, Pablo? Maybe you meant for applications that don't require a low-SAPS oil? Or maybe I misunderstood entirely, in which case I apologize.

 

[BobFout]

Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: BobFout
Originally Posted By: d00df00d

Red Line is always good, although it doesn't carry any approvals and probably never will. Ditto Amsoil, although the general consensus seems to be that their 5w-40 is getting VERY long in the tooth and likely to be retired soon.


Which of the two Amsoil 5w40s is getting long in the tooth?


I'm pretty sure he's talking about AFL and I'm not sure what he is talking about with the retirement thing. AFL is a low SAPS 5W-40 and it's absolutely great at doing what you ask it to do - in the correct application. If you are asking it to be a 1970 HDEO, then that is not the correct application.

Yes, I was talking about AFL. I thought you said there was another xw-40 coming in to replace it, Pablo? Maybe you meant for applications that don't require a low-SAPS oil? Or maybe I misunderstood entirely, in which case I apologize.


The new Euro oil will probably be like the other latest Euro oils, 5w30, 507.00/504.00/229.51/229.31/LL04.

http://www.mobil.com/UK-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_ESP_Formula_5w30.asp

 

[Nickdfresh]

Originally Posted By: dparm
Nothing "wrong" with it but I'd like to spend a little bit more for a good oil.

I recently learned that the US-sold Lubro-Moly (at NAPA) is not the same as the European stuff that's full-synth. Maybe that's what's "wrong" with it.


Where did you learn that? I'd almost doubt it'd be worth their while to formulate different oils under the same badge for different markets. And it would be confusing as well distribution wise...

 

[Gene K]

Originally Posted By: dparm
Actually got a 10% off Pep Boys coupon...

I guess my other big concern is that the low annual mileage means I'll be changing this oil about every 9-12 months. That seems way too long, and that's even at a 5k interval versus Audi's recommended 10k.


12 months is fine for any modern motor oil. If it wasnt all the cars with OLM's wouldnt allow it even on conventional.

The 9 Qt Sump is their for a reason. So you can run 50% longer drains than with a 6 Qt Sump (Along with Oil Temp regulation).

Just buy Mobil 1 0W-40 and change it once a year. If you are nervous about it use a little of the money you save to run an analysis at 6 months.

To be perfectly honest most any synthetic is going to last 12 months and 10,000 miles with a 9 Qt Sump.

PS You might be suprised what oils contain GIII (Ferrari/Shell racing oil for F1 for instance)

 

[Pablo]

The guessing is it will be a LD 5w30

 

[Scooter_man]

Just put in Rotella T6 (available at Wal-mart) and be done with it. As said above - it laughts at Gasoline specs (SM) and is a great oil that would do fine. 5-7k is nothing for this stuff.


Rob