Made the switch from Amsoil to PP

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Johnny
The oil is called SUPERE SPEC 5W-30 as it is just barely below a 10W-40. The base oil, if that is the corect term, is absolutely standard Mobil 1 5W-30 with a heavy duty additative package and a little group V. Here are the majors of the oil. It comes from Fairfax, VA, but it is not blended by Mobil, approved by Mobil, or may not even be known of by Mobil. It comes from a man that blends oils for HP engines with aftermarket parts and packages. I found him through my son in law that lives in Fredericksburg, Va.

40C cSt..............12.4
100C cSt.............74.6
VI...................165
HTHS..................3.4(WISH THIS WERE HIGHER)
TBN..................11.03
NOACK................ 5.94
BORON.................240
CALCIUM..............2720
MG....................16
MO....................100
P.....................980
ZDDP..................920

There is a lot of other STUFF but they are all 1 to 4 PPM.

Mobil 1 15W-50 is a light 15W-50. I run engines that never see 3000 RPM unless something goes wrong. I trust the high detergent level and the TBN of the Mobil 1 to keep my engines clean and to overcome the contaminants, so I change it out every 3000 miles to keep it fresh.
 
I have a 2001 Tahoe and I run PP in mine. Amsoil just did not work for me and my driving habits. Terry Dyson helped me to find just the right oil for my use. No way I could go 25K miles - 15K is too far also. I tried M1 extended mileage for 10K and it was gone. That's based on my driving, others may have no problems at all. I highly recommend UOA to find the right oil for you.
 
Ok, I'll bite.....

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How does Amsoil just not work for you and your driving habits??
 
Originally Posted By: Solo2driver
Hmmmm PP is still $4.01/qt here in Southern California....maybe I should stock up :)
Some times the PP goes on sale with a rebate at Kragans and Auto zone.
 
Buster

I'm waiting for an e-mail from my son in law. I know there is no web site as oil is not this mans business. He has a machine shop where he does some engine building but he uses remanufactured short or long block assemblies then builds them up with custom parts like carburetors, CD or magneto ignition, headers, no computers, no sensors, etc.

Hopefully, my son in law will get us his ingredients and percentages. I know the main thing is Mobil 1 5W-30, something called a group 2000 ester, extreme pressure additive, FM additive, and something to improve the viscosity.
 
Here you go:

"Frank
Supere Spec is the name Richard gave to his pet blend for use in his remanufactured engines. It is basically 20 gallons of Mobil 1 5W-30, 4.5 gallons of Mobil 1 V Twin 20W-50 motorcycle oil, 38 0z of Maxima group V 2000E, an unknown amount of something called Kirbans EP plus, and an unknown amount of something called Fleet Maximizer, for a total of 25 gallons. He said to please not use 15W-50 in your new truck."

When I did a search for Maxima V 2000E, all I found was a high temperature oil for air cooled motorcycle engines. Kirbans EP didn't come back with any matches. I did a search for Fleet Maximizer and it came back as a friction modifier additive, very expensive.
 
Ok...so maybe I'll run the PP to 7,500 miles instead of the 10,000 I orginally planned. Still not a bad OCI. I know what Amsoil claims but I just can't go over a 10K OCI no matter what. It might be old school thinking but that is just me I guess.

I still think that no matter what brand name oil you use as long as you change it regular and do other maint on your car it will last a very, very long time. I used to work with a guy about a year ago that had a 10 year old Suburban. He had over 300,000 on it with regular 3,000 mile dino oil changes. He only ever changed the plugs....everything else worked fine. He still has it and continues to use it as his daily driver....its his only vehicle.

Thanks for the input guys.
 
Originally Posted By: VWDaniel
No UOA how can you tell whats going on. Over a year if you break it down Amsoil is cheaper,you can change it once a year or 25k. One oil change at even $80is cheaper than multiple changes thru out the year. No mater what oi you use UOAs are a good idea

Not according to my calculations and being a smart consumer!

Originally Posted By: tpitcher
Before you take PP to 10,000 miles, check the UOA section for results of others that have done them with PP. IIRC, most run 6-8k and IIRC, PP is pretty good up to about ~7-8k.

I am not sure PP is what you want to go to 10k - I have pinged back and forth between Amsoil & PP on my truck for the last 60k, but I know darn well with what I read, I would not run PP to 10k. You are much better off getting the Amsoil if you are going to run that many miles between OCI's.
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Here's my response and UOA of this comment.
2000 300M currently on a 12K OCI of PP as indicated by Blackstone Labs
Code:
OIL PP5W30 M1 5W/30 EP M1 5W/30 EP M1 5W/30 EP

MILES IN USE 5,060 12,532 9,950 5,000

MILES ON CAR 115,913 110,852 108,270 103,320

SAMPLE TAKEN 02/07/07 11/16/06 10/03/06 08/07/06



ALUMINUM 3 2 3 2

CHROMIUM 0 0 0 0

IRON 7 10 9 7

COPPER 5 5 6 5

LEAD 0 2 2 1

TIN 1 0 0 0

MOLYBDENUM 53 72 76 72

NICKEL 0 0 0 0

MANGANESE 0 0 0 0

SILVER 0 0 0 0

TITANIUM 0 0 0 0

POTASSIUM 2 0 2 1

BORON 9 49 53 60

SILICON 12 14 12 9

SODIUM 3 8 8 8

CALCIUM 2295 2153 2397 2180

MAGNESIUM 12 11 12 12

PHOSPHORUS 644 574 610 587

ZINC 694 692 739 674

BARIUM 0 0 0 0



INSOLUBLES 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2

WATER 0 0 0 0

FUEL TR
FLASHPOINT ºF 365 385 370 400

SUS VIS 210ºF 58.2 60.0 61.0 61.9

cSt @ 100ºC

TBN 2.9 2.6 2.6 4.0

TAN

2004 300M currently on a 12K OCI of PP as indicated by Blackstone Labs
Code:
OIL PP5W30

MILES IN USE 10,121

MILES ON CAR 105,892

SAMPLE TAKEN 02/29/08



ALUMINUM 4

CHROMIUM 1

IRON 9

COPPER 12

LEAD 2

TIN 1

MOLYBDENUM 44

NICKEL 1

MANGANESE 0

SILVER 0

TITANIUM 0

POTASSIUM 1

BORON 12

SILICON 17

SODIUM 4

CALCIUM 2578

MAGNESIUM 86

PHOSPHORUS 705

ZINC 902

BARIUM 0



INSOLUBLES 0.3

WATER 0

FUEL
FLASHPOINT ºF 425

SUS VIS 210ºF 62.2

cSt @ 100ºC 10.83

TBN 2.7

TAN
 
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Originally Posted By: Johnny
Agree with those who say don't push PP to 10K. With UOA would have no problem going 7-8K.


Originally Posted By: tpitcher
Before you take PP to 10,000 miles, check the UOA section for results of others that have done them with PP. IIRC, most run 6-8k and IIRC, PP is pretty good up to about ~7-8k.


Guess I made a mistake.

Clark
 
Originally Posted By: Cory
Originally Posted By: VWDaniel
No UOA how can you tell whats going on. Over a year if you break it down Amsoil is cheaper,you can change it once a year or 25k. One oil change at even $80is cheaper than multiple changes thru out the year. No mater what oi you use UOAs are a good idea

Not according to my calculations and being a smart consumer!



I just went to the parts stores here and no rebates. You also didnt add the cost of an oil filter. In MY case I would use a mobil 1 or K&N. So add 20bucks to each figure. That makes it $45 for the PP, and $40 for the Vsyn. The EAO filter for my civic is also like 10bucks. That would make the amsoil total $52. I havent used the amsoil yet but if it makes it for the full year then I dont mind paying the extra ~10bucks. Thats one less time I gotta get down there to change the oil, one less time i gotta discard the oil and filter and its not a bad thing that I used only 4quarts as opposed to 8quarts of oil throughout the year. I also wouldnt be the guy that buys 30quarts of oil becuase its on sale. The wife is already aggravated at the "[censored]" i have laying around in our apt.lol So not only will amsoil be good for my engine, its good for my marriage.
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Originally Posted By: Firehawk409
I just went to the parts stores here and no rebates. You also didnt add the cost of an oil filter. In MY case I would use a mobil 1 or K&N. So add 20bucks to each figure. That makes it $45 for the PP, and $40 for the Vsyn. The EAO filter for my civic is also like 10bucks. That would make the amsoil total $52. I havent used the amsoil yet but if it makes it for the full year then I dont mind paying the extra ~10bucks. Thats one less time I gotta get down there to change the oil, one less time i gotta discard the oil and filter and its not a bad thing that I used only 4quarts as opposed to 8quarts of oil throughout the year. I also wouldnt be the guy that buys 30quarts of oil becuase its on sale. The wife is already aggravated at the "[censored]" i have laying around in our apt.lol So not only will amsoil be good for my engine, its good for my marriage.
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The cost of the filter is a wash. If you're going to leave it 25k on the amsoil, leave it there that long for the other oils too.
Oh, by the way, my last case of filters were FREE, no added expense for me.
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Enough filters for the next 3 years. Sweet!
 
Originally Posted By: VWDaniel
No UOA how can you tell whats going on. Over a year if you break it down Amsoil is cheaper,you can change it once a year or 25k. One oil change at even $80is cheaper than multiple changes thru out the year. No mater what oi you use UOAs are a good idea


Yeah if one cares to run an oil that long with moisture and other gunk in it. I don't care if the oil will stay good - 1 year is old oil .
 
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