M1 users convince me to change!

[TooSlick]

The PAO based synthetics are much more resistant to oxidation, compared to the GP III stuff. Take a look at the test comparison Amsoil ran in the "TFOUT" test. Amsoil and Mobil 1 performed much better than did any of the Group III synthetics - in fact they lasted over twice as long. As a result, PAO based oils are better suited to long drain intervals, even if the additive package doesn't look that robust.

Mobil 1 performs very well in Toyota engines. I'd run the new Mobil 1, Extended Performance formula in either the 5w30 or 10w30 grade.

TS

 

[PeaveyFender]

I agree, there are not very many UOAs about Synpower on here. One vehicle I read, Blackstone Labs recommended someone try 9,000 miles for the next oil change on Synpower. The guy ran 8,000 previously.

Is there anything wrong with having high iron (Fe) levels in UOAs for Mobil1?

 

[jsharp]

quote:

---

Originally posted by PeaveyFender:
I agree, there are not very many UOAs about Synpower on here. One vehicle I read, Blackstone Labs recommended someone try 9,000 miles for the next oil change on Synpower. The guy ran 8,000 previously.

Is there anything wrong with having high iron (Fe) levels in UOAs for Mobil1?

---

I'm not sure the M1 "high iron" problem really exists. In my 3.4L 4Runner the iron numbers track more closely with the time of year than the oil used. A winter interval will show higher iron than a summer interval.

I also don't think an A3 rated oil is required in most Toyota engines. An A5 rated oil is basicly the same except for its lower viscosity. In my 3.4L I didn't really see any better UOA numbers with A3 German Castrol 0w30 than I did with A5 rated M1 5w30...

 

[PeaveyFender]

So A1 is even enough for a Toyota motor right?

[ February 21, 2005, 11:05 PM: Message edited by: PeaveyFender ]

 

[VeeDubb]

quote:

---

Originally posted by PeaveyFender:
So A1 is even enough for a *** motor right?

---

I'm sure it's fine. I have a bias toward A3 because I have one of those engines that calls for it.

At the end of the day, both M1 and Synpower will do the job fine. Either one will help your engine outlive the rest of the chasis. Toyota engines are awesome. I wouldn't worry about it too much and just go with the oil that is cheaper or easier to find.

 

[PeaveyFender]

My question is why are people saying Toyotas like M1 better because of it's thin viscosity when both brands of 5w30 are a 30 weight oil?

 

[TallPaul]

quote:

---

Originally posted by PeaveyFender:
My question is why are people saying Toyotas like M1 better because of it's thin viscosity when both brands of 5w30 are a 30 weight oil?

---

30 weight ranges 9.3 to 12.5 cSt ( API Chart of oil weights ). M1 10w30 is about 10 cSt, Valvoline Synpower 10w30 is about 10.9 cSt, Maxlife Synthetic 10w30 is about 11.5 cSt. (The Havoline Synthetic 10w30 that was offloaded at AutoZone for $2 a quart is about 10.1 cSt.)

 

[PeaveyFender]

I'm sorry, I am not a mechanical engineer and cannot grasp the concept of a centistoke as a unit of measure. How big of a difference is .9 cSt?

With Toyota's bearing clearances, will 10.9 vSt affect efficiency of oil getting to engine components?

[ February 21, 2005, 11:50 PM: Message edited by: PeaveyFender ]

 

[haley10]

quote:

---

Originally posted by PeaveyFender:
I'm probably going to stick with Synpower but may consider running Maxlife Synthetic. Is Moly a bad thing to put into a new engine?

---

No, not if it's in a fully formulated oil already. Synpower, Maxlife, and M1 all have moly.

 

[haley10]

quote:

---

Originally posted by PeaveyFender:
UOAs on Mobil1 are better than Synpower for Toys?

---

I don't think there are enough uoa's on Synpower to drawn any conclusions. TooSlick made a good point. If you decide to extend beyond 5k the M1 EP will do it. Synpower is not A5 rated, only A1 I believe.

I like the availability in 5 qt. jugs, but that amy not matter to you.

 

[Mamala Bay]

Honestly Toyota makes a well built efficient engine. The Mobil EP would be a good choice for 10,000 mile OCI. If you want to wait till 20,000 miles on engine go with a 6,000 mile OCI with a cheaper GRP3 synthetic.

A UOA at 7K miles if you decide to go with a 10K OCI would be a safe bet in determining how long the synthetic oil can go.

 

[Blue99]

quote:

---

Originally posted by PeaveyFender:
I'm probably going to stick with Synpower but may consider running Maxlife Synthetic. Is Moly a bad thing to put into a new engine?

---

I'd shy away from the Maxlife Synthetic, as it tends to be a bit of a "special use" oil at 11.5 cSt, A3 rated, and a 1.3 sulfated ash level.

With the BMW 98, MB 229.3, and VW 502, 505, it seems aimed at the Euro car market. Don't know if a new Toyota V6 actually needs an oil with these ratings or additive levels.

 

[VeeDubb]

quote:

---

Originally posted by PeaveyFender:
My question is why are people saying Toyotas like M1 better because of it's thin viscosity when both brands of 5w30 are a 30 weight oil?

---

I have no idea because I don't own a toyota. But if toyo owners are anything like the VW crowd, this sounds like a serious wives tale. There is a rumor going around saying how VW's "like thicker oils" which is completely unsubstantiated by any evidence apart from an owner's manual statement that says 5w-40 is the recommended grade (an idiot proof recommendation that covers all climates). But somehow, this got turned into some story about how VW's are somehow engineered for thicker oils. In fact, there is evidence to the contrary as 1.8T VW motors produce lower iron counts on 30wts compared to 40wts, not to mention that Audi recommends 30wts in the same EXACT engine.

Next time someone says toyos "like lighter weights" ask them to show you some evidence and then have them convince you that a difference of 0.9 is going to matter. I'm not saying that it is not true, but have them convince you with evidence not rumor.

 

[Alan]

I also think most VW's do fine with dino 30W oils as long as you don't push it too far.The turbo models maybe more suited for synthetics though.

Toyota's really seem to thrive off 30W's.

 

[mikemc]

For only a 5K interval I'd go with a good blend. The Mobil 7500 sounds good.

 

[TheFuror]

quote:

---

Originally posted by PeaveyFender:
I purchased a new 2005 Toyota Tacoma 4.0L V6.
I'm used to running Valvoline Synpower but this is my first new vehicle and I want to start with a clean slate (tabula rasa).

The truck does have an engine oil cooler and transmission cooler for towing. I use NAPA Gold (WIX) filters only.

I may be moving from Indiana to Southern California (possibly LA = long idling)

I will change oil every 5,000 miles.

What 5w30 oil do you guys recommend?

---

I would use Mobil1 and feel good about 5K mile changes. Southern California can bake cars into oblivion, given the heat and all the stop-n-go driving.

If it were me, I would buy it at a place like Wally world or the concrete floored warehouses where it is much cheaper.

I don't use M1 but if the availability of Kendall gets any worse I would probably switch to that. My understanding is that certain GM engines will show higher iron wear in the beginning with M1 but settle down after break-in

Bob W.

 

[MarkC]

Would it be safe to assume you have a Strat, PeaveyFender?

 

[Patman]

quote:

---

Originally posted by MarkC:

Would it be safe to assume you have a Strat, PeaveyFender?

---

I was going to ask that too, since I've also got a Fender Stratocaster and a Peavey Backstage Plus amp!

 

[PeaveyFender]

quote:

---

Would it be safe to assume you have a Strat, PeaveyFender?

---

Correct!

I have a 2003 Fender Fat Strat Texas Special.
Fender pic
and used to have a Peavey Classic 30 that I sold and bought a used Crate gt80dsp (half solid state and half tube):
Peavey

So I guess my name should be FenderCrate

[ February 22, 2005, 09:31 PM: Message edited by: PeaveyFender ]

 

[PeaveyFender]

back to oil, What is the availability of getting Synpower vs. Mobil1 on the West Coast particularly in LA? I plan on moving there.