That's what I plan to buy at a local parts store before road tripping. They're more expensive than OEM, but minimal to just have a couple on hand.
Lug Stud Replacement Subaru
- Thread starter HowAboutThis
- Start date
Don't know if this has anything to do with it, but wouldn't shock me...
Attachments
I have only had a couple break on the original wheel hubs but never on aftermarket hubs. ARP makes stronger replacements as well as a few others.
These are 10.9
https://www.amazon.com/TWENTY-UPGRA...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
These are 10.9
https://www.amazon.com/TWENTY-UPGRA...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
nice I looked for 5+min without spotting those Trav.
I've been keeping an eye on mine. I have never broken or even had one with stretched threads in 3 subarus previous to this one.
but they are out there.
I have been contemplating giving the lugnut innards a tiny spray of krown. I dont run my stock lugnuts in the winter/salt.. which will probably help.
I've been keeping an eye on mine. I have never broken or even had one with stretched threads in 3 subarus previous to this one.
but they are out there.
I have been contemplating giving the lugnut innards a tiny spray of krown. I dont run my stock lugnuts in the winter/salt.. which will probably help.
When you say "hubs" are you implying the mating surface or studs that come with them were the issue? Or, "who knows"?
I'm in contact with Subaru to see if they'll "remedy" the situation. Or at least meet in the middle. To be honest, if I knew this going into buying a Subaru, I would've bought a Highlander or Rav 4. And I'll probably never buy another Subaru given the underpowered AC and hassle of wheel studs every couple rotations.
It's "known" on BITOG too for those of you throwing shade at me
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/subaru-lug-studs.346627/
My wife's older 2005 (or 2006?) never had an issue for the 8 rotations I did on it. Never broke one. We used to swap winter tires on Facebook Marketplace rims, too. Probably should've been using different nuts with the steel winter rims. Who knows. Never had an issue.
if the lug studs would make you not buy a car just replace all 20 for 55$ and move on with life.. cant relate to that.When you say "hubs" are you implying the mating surface or studs that come with them were the issue? Or, "who knows"?
I'm in contact with Subaru to see if they'll "remedy" the situation. Or at least meet in the middle. To be honest, if I knew this going into buying a Subaru, I would've bought a Highlander or Rav 4. And I'll probably never buy another Subaru given the underpowered AC and hassle of wheel studs every couple rotations.
It's "known" on BITOG too for those of you throwing shade at me
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/subaru-lug-studs.346627/
what if you got the earthdream 1.5L from a honda.. now thats something you can fix for 55$
I dont find my AC underpowered.. seems "normal"
You're correct. It's silly for them to annoy a customer over such a small amount of money.
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2025
Most Subaru you need the special tool to get access to the caliper bracket bolts. Usually you can get it with a wrench too but the tool is so much easier. You could probably get to it with a universal 17 and a long extension too but I’d recommend the tool. It is expensive because Snap-on is the only one who makes it and they have a patent on the design. Subaru studs are known for snapping. I personally believe they have different metallurgy than other manufacturers. I’m a Subaru/Toyota tech and it’s one thing we do on a daily basis for the Subaru. We frequently run out of them at the dealership so we keep the Dorman ones in stock too and I haven’t seen any issues with those as long as they are torqued properly and I’ve found a just a little dab of anti seize will serve Subaru studs well. And the brakes should be fine and go back on without needing to compress the caliper pistons. As long as you don’t swap the rotors you should not need to push the piston back.
Do you recommend replacing the nuts, too? Or just studs? I saved that to my Amazon list.
That's great info. The tire shop I've had them repaired at, when asked, seemed to imply their aftermarket ones are less prone to issues. I've always been told "NO!" to anti seize on lugs. But just a small small small amount shouldn't mess anything up too badly?
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2025
Right. I’ve found it to be beneficial on Subaru studs just a very little bit. Copper or silver whatever you have will work just a very small bit is all.
Well shoot. If Subaru's come from the factory with defective lugs, then I apologize for making assumptions. It would have helped if you explained that in the beginning, but that is still no excuse for me passing judgement. My bad.
I learn something new about Subaru's every day. In a recent thread I was schooled that media/internet amplification over-exaggerates Subaru issues. No reason to avoid buying Subaru for an easily remedied lug problem if one likes every thing else about the vehicle.
To answer your question regarding wheel maintenance, to me it means taking them off several times a year (rotations in my case) and giving the entire system a going over. Clean, inspect, lube (if applicable), etc.. This prevents wheels seizing to hubs, calipers seizing, pads wearing down to metal, etc.. Especially important in the rust belt.
I learn something new about Subaru's every day. In a recent thread I was schooled that media/internet amplification over-exaggerates Subaru issues. No reason to avoid buying Subaru for an easily remedied lug problem if one likes every thing else about the vehicle.
To answer your question regarding wheel maintenance, to me it means taking them off several times a year (rotations in my case) and giving the entire system a going over. Clean, inspect, lube (if applicable), etc.. This prevents wheels seizing to hubs, calipers seizing, pads wearing down to metal, etc.. Especially important in the rust belt.
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Yeah, they get rotated at least twice per year. I don't live with road salt (used to, but not with this car). Dealer tech checks all the stuff on the inspection sheet during maintenance work (at least they say they do) and I check tread depth across the tire every month to look for uneven wear.
Subarus are a great car, for the price you can get one for and what they offer. But this lug stud thing is getting silly. My wife's old Forester had the $3k+ head gasket repair at about 100k miles so I guess lug studs is improvement, if we're looking for positives.
I doubt they come with "defective" lugs. They're effective for someone's goals. Just not mine
And my wording about the usual snapped lug in my original post implies what you wish I would've said.
Only if you're using an impact. Otherwise, a normal XL double boxed end wrench works fine.
https://capritools.com/shop/double-...MI5rqqkZ34_gIVASmtBh23DgXIEAQYAyABEgKHMPD_BwE
Kestas
Staff member
Humbleness aside, I've examined many stud bolts in the lab and can recognize good ones, and "economy" studs. I've also done a fair bit of failure analysis on them and I'm familiar with the specs. If I was working I'd love to get my hands on these problem Subaru bolts.
Thanks so much! I thought the article from Art's Automotive was really good.
Well, I've got 3 nuts with sheared studs in them. I know where one of them is. I'll run across the other two in 20 years. Can't remember where I put them. If I weren't on a car forum I'd be worried about people wondering what I meant by "I've got three nuts with sheared studs in them." Thankfully I'm on a car forum so nobody will judge my personal life.
So, this is very much anecdotal, but it seems we sell quite a few wheel studs for Subarus compared to the number of them I see on the road. Again, I don’t have the data. Just feels like the proportion of wheel studs sold to shops but also walk in customers is higher percentage wise for Subarus. Sure we sell more for Toyotas but there are far more Toyotas out there than Subarus. So yes, if I had to make an assumption, Subarus are probably slightly more likely to have an issue with that than average. But it’s a cheap easy fix so compared to some issues on some cars it seems insignificant.
Kestas
Staff member
I read through the link HowAboutThis provided on the background to this problem. Apparently much of it is attributed to the stud threads, which are finer than what others vehicles have. Finer threads make it easier to overtighten fasteners. It also makes it more prone to breakage if tightened without a torque wrench or if neversieze is slathered under the nut surface.
I asked earlier what the failure mode was. If the studs break from fatigue, this is an indication of movement in the fastened assembly, and the problem lies with what causes the movement and not with the studs themselves. If they fail from single event overload, then overtightening is an issue, indicating the torque used to fasten the studs is too close to the ultimate strength of the stud material.
I asked earlier what the failure mode was. If the studs break from fatigue, this is an indication of movement in the fastened assembly, and the problem lies with what causes the movement and not with the studs themselves. If they fail from single event overload, then overtightening is an issue, indicating the torque used to fasten the studs is too close to the ultimate strength of the stud material.
